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i have a 1993 Toyota Pickup single cab that i bought a few months ago as a project. It had 14 inch tires on it and i put on 15 inch with 15x8 bullethole rims. I got some BJ spacers hoping that would give me the room i needed for the new tires. The tires still rub though so I'm ordering a 1 inch body lift next week. i have new upper and lower ball joints arriving but my question is should i take off my spacers if i get a body lift ? tires are LT235/75/15
i have a 1993 Toyota Pickup single cab that i bought a few months ago as a project. It had 14 inch tires on it and i put on 15 inch with 15x8 bullethole rims. I got some BJ spacers hoping that would give me the room i needed for the new tires. The tires still rub though so I'm ordering a 1 inch body lift next week. i have new upper and lower ball joints arriving but my question is should i take off my spacers if i get a body lift ? tires are LT235/75/15
BJ Spacers allow for less tension on the torsion bars. Crank those and leave the body lift out.
I run BJ spacers and i believe they make it more difficult to achieve factory alignment specs. I would take them out if you find that to be the case.
Stupid question: if I modify the front suspension, I'd not expect an alignment based on the factory specs only, I'd expect an alignment taking in consideration the mod also, so what is the problem?
Stupid question: if I modify the front suspension, I'd not expect an alignment based on the factory specs only, I'd expect an alignment taking in consideration the mod also, so what is the problem?
You may run into a situation like i did where to achieve 0* camber, you compromise caster. The alignment priority should be caster, camber, then toe, but in my case the installation of the bj spaces gave +camber which i think looks stupid so i instructed the alignment guy to get rid of it. Without that priority, he could have achieved more +caster, which translates to better stability for highway speeds. Think motorcycle forks, which are tilted back = +caster.
Now if i were let loose with an alignment machine, through trial and error and driving i could probably come up with specs I liked best, but i don’t have access to one so I got what I asked for.
Last edited by Melrose 4r; Apr 19, 2021 at 03:41 AM.
Keep them and add on low profile bump stops for the upper control arms for a bit more travel before bottoming out the arms.
I ran that setup of bj spacers and low pro bumps, and cranked up torsions but I did a 2" body lift and was able to run a 235/75-15 with no rubbing at all on my 94 2wd. I also did a lift shackle in the back and it sat pretty level. I had no issues for alignment doing that setup but ask if they can add a little extra caster.
Last edited by Robert m; Apr 20, 2021 at 01:21 PM.
ok well i have since installed a 1 inch body lift. i kept the BJ spacers and took it for a drive and now my steering wheel wobbles a bit at about 40 MPH. Could it be the BJ spacers maybe? I'm still having a rubbing issue but i don't know where it would be yet.
no. i didn't loosen the steering shaft at all. I found my new rims were not balanced correctly and got them finally balanced . I got my lift from another vendor and the instructions didn't say anything about the steering shaft. Only to loosen the fuel filler hoses in case they stretched but they didn't move at all when i did it.
I did my lift at home in the driveway and didn't raise the cab alot . just enough for the spacers which i think helped not stretch anything .
Apr 18, 2021 | 09:48 AM
