seafoam question
#2
Sure you can. Should you? No, because it will probably completely evaporate. This would leave whatever crud it loosened up, dry and still stuck to wherever it happened to accumulate. Part of the process of the carb/intake/upper cylinder treatment is dissolving/liquifying the gunk in there in the hope that it can be more effectively drawn into the combustion process and burned away. If you wait too long you're back to square one.
Last edited by MudHippy; Oct 15, 2007 at 07:17 PM.
#5
[QUOTE=mkgarrison5;50642053... i have left mine in there overnight and it smoked like a 2 $ whore at port.. it will be fine[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the image
LOL
The question is do you really want to leave it in there that long? Me I like to follow mfg. recommendations... at least the first time...
Thanks for the image
LOLThe question is do you really want to leave it in there that long? Me I like to follow mfg. recommendations... at least the first time...
#6
well, if you have ever watched the seafoam ad/ video on youtube, they say leave it in for 5 minutes, and i dont think it really cleans as much as i have seen in people's yota's when they leave it in for an hour.
but then again, it all matters about how much stuff is in your engine i guess...
im getting mine smogged in a month, then im gonna try it...
but then again, it all matters about how much stuff is in your engine i guess...
im getting mine smogged in a month, then im gonna try it...
#7
Well, that's not entirely correct. The oil wouldn't evaporate, but I don't think the oil is the key solvent. Nor is it more than about half what's in the can, possibly less than half(percentage wise listed as Pale Oil 40-60% on the website).
What's the other 60-40%? Hah, that's a good question. You see the other two ingredients that go into the mix do happen to be very evaporative solvents. Naphtha(Ronsonol/Lighter Fluid)and Isopropyl Alcohol(Rubbing Alcohol).They make up nearly half or better of what's really in the can(percentage wise Naphtha 25-35%, Isopropyl Alcohol 10-20% listed on the site).
So, if you wan't the solvent action to be up to it's full potential, instead of letting half the can become one with the atomosphere some many hours later(?), 5 minutes is all it takes. Waiting longer DOES NOT make it work better, it makes it WORK LESS!
The site is:http://www.seafoamsales.com/pdf/MSDS_SFTT_US.pdf
My work is done here.
What's the other 60-40%? Hah, that's a good question. You see the other two ingredients that go into the mix do happen to be very evaporative solvents. Naphtha(Ronsonol/Lighter Fluid)and Isopropyl Alcohol(Rubbing Alcohol).They make up nearly half or better of what's really in the can(percentage wise Naphtha 25-35%, Isopropyl Alcohol 10-20% listed on the site).
So, if you wan't the solvent action to be up to it's full potential, instead of letting half the can become one with the atomosphere some many hours later(?), 5 minutes is all it takes. Waiting longer DOES NOT make it work better, it makes it WORK LESS!
The site is:http://www.seafoamsales.com/pdf/MSDS_SFTT_US.pdf
My work is done here.
Last edited by MudHippy; Oct 17, 2007 at 04:33 PM.
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#8
well i have had no issues at all leaving it in for over 30 mins.. i still leave mine in there atleast an hour to sit and loosen everything... even after you blow that out maybe you could do a "rinse" type thing and just leave in there for 5 mins.. they also tell you that you are just supposed to use 1 0z per gallon but as WE ALL KNOW thats not enough to clean but its enough to keep it clean hence the reason why i dillute 2 cans per half tank or less then run empty.. it works for me and it works very well.
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