Well, then pay for smooth. ARB, Detroit, Spool, Lunchbox-youre gonna have a bind unless you're runnin a twin stick or like getting out of your rig an unlockin a hub.

Kinda why I asked the OP if he REALLY even wheels because then its just a waist to do anything to the front.

 

I was under the impression that the OP had just purchased an ARB for the rear, in which case he could return it and get one for the front.

 

Why spend money on the front?
Lincoln locker is where it's at.
Free, effective, and you can unlock one hub and its just like having open front lol

 

is it not true that with the arb, switching both lockers off returns both the front and rear to an open differential? i thought that was the whole point of them. so if you're in the snow and want to use the 4wd you put it in 4hi but just dont flip the switches to activate the the lockers, therefore your truck is riding just like stock. then say you're in the trails, you put it in 4 and flip the switches to activate the lockers and youre locked front and rear. correct me if im wrong

 

Yes, without the ARB locker engaged, you will have an open diff. But imagine just how much more bind you get from the front end than the rear. Having a full time locker in the rear makes the rear end squirrely, but you can live with it, even in snow. If you can return the ARB and exchange it for a 7.5", then that's the way to go. Or you can just do the rear and save for an ARB for the front. At least you'll have the compressor; that will save some money.

 

Arb f/r ftw

 

I have an ARB rear and a Aussie front, previously had a Detroit ezlock in the front and a lockrite in the rear. I like my current setup. Haven't driven it in the snow but looking forward to it. Watch out who you listen too as many preach hear say like it's the gospel, I do it time to time.

Like I said I really like my current set up much better than the previous.

 

ok, so it seems like the air lockers would be the optimal set up for me. and i already have the compressor installed, ive been using it to inflate my tires after i air down for the trails. and i do wheel my truck. i dont have it set up for rock crawling or mud bogging. i am trying to keep it a reliable, and capable trail truck. i am just starting to build it up and im trying to start off with the most functional upgrades rather than throwing a 6" lift on and massive tires and calling it a trail rig. also, any trails that are near me are still a reasonable trip for me to get to so i need to be able to drive safely on the road even if i had a different daily driver and could make my truck strictly a trail rig.

 

Does this mean you're going to do gears as well once you're in there? It would be a hell of a lot easier just to take care of everything at once. If you want functional, stick some 488s or 529s in there, throw on some 33s, and forget about locking the front. With only the rear locked, your truck will be WAY more capable than it was before.

 

I understand your build plan. I DD mine. Its a continual process "never ending story." Use caution about opinions as they are like bung holes and they all stink. ARBs are the way to go if they are in your budget. Lots of things to spend money on with this hobby.

 

You do realize this refers to your post as well.

 

Mudd doesn't actually have a rig.......

 

Aaaaand 281. No wait, 282.

 

He he he quiet you

 

i dont know if i will do gears. again that brings up the same question of how will this affect my street driveability. Will i still be able to do 75 on the highway with 4.88s? and at a reasonable rpm? i guess if im gonna hold off on the front locker i could put money towards gears. i was looking at "g2" anyone used them before? also, would i need to replace the carrier and pinion bearings when i swap out the ring and pinion? what would you guys suggest i go with?

 

You need two gear sets and two install kits. No, you don't need to replace the carriers. As far as driveability, let me just say that I went from being undergeared to being way overgeared, and I got better gas mileage and could actually pass people on hills. I think I was pulling a few hundred RPMs above what I had been. As long as the tire size to gear ratio is within reason, it shouldn't affect your performance.

 

5.29s, aussie up front, detroit in the rear..... thats how my 4runner was with 33s. very driveable on the street

 

Nope.... It is the headgasket.

 

ok, i guess i will do gears while im there then and hold off on the front air locker. i have 31's now, probly going to go to 32 or 33 next time i buy tires which will be in the next 6 months sometime. would 4.88 gears be a better choice since im not going to run a 35+" tire?

 

Your going to break CV's every 5 mins with a front locker. You won't be able to steer with a front locker. Your truck could blow up with a front locker.