There is so much information its overwhelming at first Ive read what i could and now just need some direct input. Ive got an 88 pickup. I have a set of 33s i picked up dirt cheap at a swap meet. I want to run tho on my truck and regear the rear end with a 'lunchbox' locker. Should I just try and find a whole new rear end or keep the rear end i have gut it and regear and buy a locker? Im not entirely sure what to be looking for or even where to buy new gears. I did however figure id run 4:11s maybe? My trucks a beater truck, it was bought to beat on and offroad with. Ive heard of people just welding their rear end and im not opposed to it if its going to work well. I dont drive the truck on the road much at all. Like I said.... im so beyond confused as this is my first 4x4 and im loving it but learning as i go. Any help would be appreciated.

 

First off, you have from the factory 4:10's. If you do regear, you should tear into the stock housing, don't worry about getting another rear end. I run a welded rear in my 85 4runner, and love it. I don't drive it much on the street, but when I do it wears tires faster. I have no idea how it does in winter conditions first hand, but I have heard that it's not a good idea. If welded right, it's fine. You can buy new gears at 4wheelparts, however, I have 33 12.50's and my stock 4:10's pull them fine. I can retain speed fairly well on most hills, but the steeper and longer ones I have trouble with. If you have a dd, and want to go the cheapest route, I would suggest welding the rear and keeping your factory gears. If you want to spend a bit more money, regear the rear end or purchase a lunchbox style locker. Just up to you.

I would like to regear my rear end with 4:88's, but you could just as well go with 4:30's or 4:56's. If you plan on running a larger tire size after the 33's, I'd suggest 4:88's, that's why I want them.

EDIT: I also got my 33's for cheap, 5 pro comp mud terrains for $75. Two were cupping pretty bad with between 40% and 70% tread, one was starting to cup with 60%/70%, and the others had about 70% tread left. I had to drive a ways for 'em, but it was well worth it!

 

I run a welded rear end on my 86 4Runner with 33/12.50's & 4:10 gears... just haven't upgraded yet!!!) The only problem I have ever noticed is wet roads and/or snowy conditions... It tends to wip the rear end around easy.. I drive my truck on the road every day & off road every chance I get.. I do notice the tires wear faster & uphill is not much fun if it's a really steep or long one but I have a brand new rebuilt engine so it pulls a little better than the worn out one I had....

 

Thats awesome information. I do have a dd... a lowered 2wd ford ranger... yes, i come from the other side of the spectrum. My next major purchase as a dd will be another Toyota or a jeep. Anyway at this point im seriously debating if i want to dump money into this truck or just keep ghetto fixing everything and driving it into the ground. The truck has 220k miles on it, im not sure what the average is for these trucks and its a pretty small motor, again not sure how capable it is. Every panel on this truck has been roughed up, my headlights are zip tied in along with turn signals after a particuarly rough night on the trail where my buddies truck was sitting on my hood at one point. Ive started making a bumper out of some steel scrap laying around. But what concerns me most is i broke the frame where the leaf spring bracket meets the frame next to the gas tank. Well i welded it back as best i could and added some metal but thats certainly not something Id want to build off of in the future. The rest of the problems are cosmetic really. it may not look pretty but its capable.


Anyway now that i told my story. Im all for welding my rear end, if it blows up ive got another 2 stock rear ends but I will want to drive this truck in the winter on the road if its going to cause problems then im not sure. How does the front diff welded hold up? both diffs? And the tire wear is only cause because the wheels will chirp going around corners right?


one last thing, is there any specs available for front/rear bumpers that could be easily made from tubing? I cant justify spending a couple hundred bucks on bumpers for this truck right now... If you saw how crappy the one I have looks you'd understand... its strong as hell and can take a hit but its fugly....

 

Well I was looking at an aussie locker it was around 220$ and that isnt so bad I might look into that. I keep considering parts that I can always swap into another truck if I had to some day.

 

I would look for two used 4.56 gear'd third members from the rear end of any 1990ish-1995 for cheap. Then get a lockrite for the rear..

You could even get 4.88 gears from any 1992-1995 with 31" tires from the factory, and an automatic.

You get a cheap gear upgrade and can throw the locker in and still drive your truck while you wait... Swap them both out in a few hours..

 

so 4.56 is stock on 90-95 pickups? and 4.88 from 92-95s but only if it came with 31s stock? Did the 88s come with 31s stock? Third member refers to the differential?

 

Yes the third member is the differential. Toyota calls it a carrier. If this is for off road , and you want to save money, the re gear is probably more important than an LSD. If you re-gear the rear, you must do the front or you will trash something. You want your front to go the same speed as your rear, assuming they are going to the same place..10's will probably turn 33's fine, but it will take a lot of RPS to keep everything going in the real torqey technical stuff, and keeping a rig under control with high rpm's could get interesting.
Good luck. Just make sure you make the right choice for your style driving and your budget. We will all give you our opinions and most will be different. I am still a Nube too, so take it for what it is.

 

awesome great advice. Its just I want lockers front and rear... or one to start... probably the rear is the most effective for the time being or is the front more effective? anyway, I was looking at the aussie lockers and as the locker for my year wont work with another year say with 4:88s i dont want to have buy it twice and be stuck with an extra set. I like parts that I can continually upgrade. But if you think the 11s are not going to be a problem i think ill stick with it for now untill I really break something....

if i where to come acorss a front and rear diff with diffrent gears say 4:88s or 4:56s what should I expect as a fair price to pay?


and whats an auto disconnecting diff mean? what do i have stock?

 

Welding the front diff will hold up okay, but I would not recommend it. You will have to leave one hub unlocked so you can turn the thing, because a welded front diff is hard to turn on stock steering. If you lock the rear end it will surprise you where it takes you. Use what you have for now and see how you like it.You can always weld one diff up and swap out another for the winter. I haven't really been able to test out 33's on 4:10's yet, only on the road. From doing small hill climbs though it seems like the setup will work for now, but time will tell.

 

I don't think any upgrades on truck would be a mistake... Most of the up grading I have done myself could be taken off and added to another vehicle... (although I could NEVER get rid of my Runner!!!) If your wanting to keep it cheap, hit the junk yards!!! Take along someone who knows what gear ratio it is when he sees it... (counting teeth...) I have to agree though, I wouldn't weld the front diff... you aren't gonna be able to steer it... The tires wearing out fast is due to driving bias ply tires on the road... They just aren't made for holding up on the road...

 

well then I think my best bet will be to just buy one aussie locker for the rear to start... then if im amazed ill get another for the front with the 33s on 4:11s, I have several other issues i want to attend to anyway.