Alrighty guys help me out if you can... i just got my motor rebuilt and i picked it up today.. its got a real bad idol problem it low and not constant.. and also after i drove it for a while i stopped to fill it up with gas just after getting it out of the shop turned it off then got in turned it back on then drove it home got it to the house turned it off one more time and tried to start it one more time and all i got was clicking... i checked battery cables that wasn't it then tapped starter with hammer which usually clears it up that didn't work then i herd a buzzing noise from my fuse box i figured it was a bad relay so i changed my starting relay with another one and same problem... i just got it out of the shop so im not to sure whats up with it.. i got the whole motor rebuilt and bored 20 over and a bigger cam installed which is one reason i think its idoling so bady either the cams not broke in or i dont think he reprogrammed the cpu for the boring 20 over and the cam? do you have to reprogram the cpu? if so does anyone know how to look one up in the orlando florida area? and does anyone know good trouble shooting for this problem? thanks for help yall you always come through thanx!!!

 

did the shop give you any kind of warrenty? i would take it back to them and make em fix it for free.

 

It sounds to me like your not getting enough juice to turn the starter.

I know you said you checked the battery cables. I'll assume you disconnected them and cleaned the connectors and the battery terminals.

There's a wire that connect's the fuse box to the positive battery terminal through the positive cable connector. Disassemble and clean that connection too.

Should clear that right up.

Don't know about the idle deal, sorry.

 

ok i found starting problem it was positive cable on starter.. had bad conection.. now im working on rough idol and i think thats it... its back in shop now but do you think its idoling bad due to the cam and bore? also after fixing the starting problem i went about a mile down the road heading for the shop and i blew a freeze plug out of the block? how does this happen? to much compression right>? would that be due to the cam/ bore also? do you all think it would be easier and more dependiable to just go back to the stock cam.. its agriating i havnt had my truck in 3 weeks and i just want my old reliable toyota mudd truck back....

 

camshafts can give you a rough idle and ecu will eventually compensate some but it will always be a bit rough. I like the way mine idles but it does shake a bit at the stop light. Huge difference in the mid range though well worth the trade off. The over size bore should also help compensate for the bigger cam. I have no dependability issues from the cam just the mild lope at idle.
As for the freeze plug someone did not install it correctly. Higher compression is not from the cam its from milling the head and this should have nothing to do with your freeze plugs. You may have a little more heat to dissapate but the stock cooling system can handle a bore and camshaft and alot more. Its going to take a little bit to work out the bugs from the rebuild I get the feeling you did not go to the dealer so it may take a few tries for the mechs to work it out.
Don't give up on the cams till you actually get a change to feel the midrange difference, you won't want to go back to stock!