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#25
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For a good clutch, refer to Marlin Crawler. Stock Aisin components, so they last.
Stock set up is their 900lb unit. You can go stronger if you like.
Call your local Yota dealer and find out who they use for a machine shop. Take your flywheel to that shop. They would be experienced in getting the correct step on the flywheel. Replace your pressure plate bolts and rear crank seal with Toyota parts. Even if its not leaking. You only want that tranny out one time....
Stock set up is their 900lb unit. You can go stronger if you like.
Call your local Yota dealer and find out who they use for a machine shop. Take your flywheel to that shop. They would be experienced in getting the correct step on the flywheel. Replace your pressure plate bolts and rear crank seal with Toyota parts. Even if its not leaking. You only want that tranny out one time....
#26
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Well, I can only speak of my 22R(E) and 3RZ experience since I haven't disassembled my '88 V6 4runner yet... Soon hopefully.
Anyway, there is a step on the flywheel. It's a difference between where the clutch disc rides, and where the pressure plate mounts to the flywheel. So if you had the flywheel out, and looked across its surface to the other side of it, you would see a difference in heights. Kinda like a two layer cake, where the top layer is a smaller diameter. As you may have seen somewhere, the clutch disc is smaller than the pressure plate, so it's surface area on the flywheel is in the center.
This causes the pressure plate (its been designed for this) to squeeze the clutch disc tighter. Less slippage means more efficient transfer of energy from the engine (or something technical like that...). If your application requires this step, and you don't do it, the clutch can slip easier. And I've seen it where it wouldn't engage at all. So when you have a lot of miles on the clutch, the flywheel wears a bit as well where the clutch disc has been slipping all those thousands of stop-and-go, uphill starts, etc. So essentially, your raised area for the clutch disc gets worn down. And you install your new clutch kit, but the stepped area for the disc won't be as high as if it were freshly turned. So the clutch disc rides slightly further away from the pressure plate, so not the same grip.
Makes no sense, does it? Lol
Oh, and for the folks talking about sand papering the flywheel, my granddad did it with engine running and sandpaper or a grinder resurfaced the flywheel. But that was on old 40s-70s domestic pickups and flatbeds or bobtail dumps.
Anyway, there is a step on the flywheel. It's a difference between where the clutch disc rides, and where the pressure plate mounts to the flywheel. So if you had the flywheel out, and looked across its surface to the other side of it, you would see a difference in heights. Kinda like a two layer cake, where the top layer is a smaller diameter. As you may have seen somewhere, the clutch disc is smaller than the pressure plate, so it's surface area on the flywheel is in the center.
This causes the pressure plate (its been designed for this) to squeeze the clutch disc tighter. Less slippage means more efficient transfer of energy from the engine (or something technical like that...). If your application requires this step, and you don't do it, the clutch can slip easier. And I've seen it where it wouldn't engage at all. So when you have a lot of miles on the clutch, the flywheel wears a bit as well where the clutch disc has been slipping all those thousands of stop-and-go, uphill starts, etc. So essentially, your raised area for the clutch disc gets worn down. And you install your new clutch kit, but the stepped area for the disc won't be as high as if it were freshly turned. So the clutch disc rides slightly further away from the pressure plate, so not the same grip.
Makes no sense, does it? Lol
Oh, and for the folks talking about sand papering the flywheel, my granddad did it with engine running and sandpaper or a grinder resurfaced the flywheel. But that was on old 40s-70s domestic pickups and flatbeds or bobtail dumps.
Last edited by rokblok; 12-19-2012 at 04:43 PM.
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Makes perfect sense, Rokblok..and thanks. I now understand what you meant by the step, however, I wonder if you know the specific dimension that the drop should be so that I can be sure (using a depth mic) that they ggggrind it right. I hope the shop I take it to understands what 'flat and parallel' means. Napa has an automotive machine shop here in Albuquerque and there is also a brake and clutch shop that does grinding. The Brake and clutch shop wants 49.00 bucks to do the job, and they did ask if it was a stepped flywheel. Is there a minimum limit that the flywheel can be ground to? You know, like the min. on a brake rotor? Thanks.
#28
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There is a minimum overall thickness and its sometimes stamped or cast on the flywheel. If you've never done a clutch, I wouldn't worry about it.
The step on my flywheel specs is .023". I had mine cut to .026". A little more grip...
You will have to check your trucks FSM to be sure. Your machine shop should also have a guide that should show the specs. Make sure it's consistent with your findings.
The step on my flywheel specs is .023". I had mine cut to .026". A little more grip...
You will have to check your trucks FSM to be sure. Your machine shop should also have a guide that should show the specs. Make sure it's consistent with your findings.
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My factory service manual does not show a pilot bearing. It it possible that there is not one? The diagram that tacoma0096 sent me shows a pilot bearing and a release (throw out) bearing, but my book, which is the FSM for 1989 3vze from TOYOTA, does not show a pilot bearing. I guess I will know when I get in there. It seems to me that there would have to be one. Thanks if anyone knows what I'm rambling about.
#31
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It's either a bearing or a bushing. I'm pretty sure it's a bearing though.
Something has to support the end of the input shaft, or things start coming apart.....
Which kit did you end up getting? And I'm kinda wondering about your FSM. Seems to be some key things missing. Unless you only have a section or something non-specific. Everything should be in a drivetrain FSM in regards to clutch
Something has to support the end of the input shaft, or things start coming apart.....
Which kit did you end up getting? And I'm kinda wondering about your FSM. Seems to be some key things missing. Unless you only have a section or something non-specific. Everything should be in a drivetrain FSM in regards to clutch
Last edited by rokblok; 12-21-2012 at 07:10 AM.
#32
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Hi, yeah, thanks Rokblok..I do have the complete (2 volume) FSM specifically for this truck. I bought it from dealer when I first purchased pick-up, new back in '89. I'm thinking now that there might not be a pilot bearing, because the clutch kit that I ordered says the pilot bearing is included, IF APPLICABLE. We'll see when I get it. Anyway, the kit I bought was an Aisin standard (OE). I bought it from an outfit out of Wisconsin who is Fedexing it me overnight, I should get it tomorrow. The place is called "Rock Automotive", I got a good price on the kit (I think) of $160 bucks (+-) including shipping.
Includes disc, cover, release bearing, alignment tool and pilot bearing (if required). I hope I get as many miles out of this one as I did out of the first one: 391,000 mi. !! I really appreciate all the help this forum has provided.
Includes disc, cover, release bearing, alignment tool and pilot bearing (if required). I hope I get as many miles out of this one as I did out of the first one: 391,000 mi. !! I really appreciate all the help this forum has provided.
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OK, the FSM does not show the pilot bearing in the exploded view. However, there is definitely a pilot bearing in there (I honestly could not see how there could not be one). So, now that I arrived at the bearing, After searching around on the internet, I learned a really awesome trick to remove the 23 year old pilot bearing from it's seat. I found a 1/2" oak dowel rod and it fit like a glove into the bore of the bearing. I then got one of my wife's homemade flour tortillas and started cramming pieces of it into the bore. As I packed the bits into the hole with the dowel rod and a hammer, the bearing came right out with NO PROBLEMS. It was truley amazing how well it worked. Then, all I had to do was dig the packed tortilla out of the hole, no grease, no wax, no mess, and a snack.
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