Donster

Greetings..I would like to begin by providing a few details. I have a 1989 SR5 extra cab 4x4 that I purchased brand new, 23 years ago. I have since traveled 391,000 miles in her. I have had a great experience with this vehicle and would be glad to share any information that I can provide. I have never taken her to the shop, I have done all of the maintenance myself. It's all original and running strong.

cman1

iTrader: (1)

welcome donster,your in the right place!!!!

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

Welcome, oh great one!! Looking forward to getting some knowledge that 300K + miles can provide.

donomite49

welcome to yotatech !

sounds like you and your yota have been around the block, like a lot of us here lol...

Donster

Thanks for the welcome! Believe it or not, I have never had to replace the clutch on the old gal, BUT... the time has come. Maybe you guys could help direct me to where I need to go on this forum to find out more information regarding advice, pitfalls, do's, don'ts, etc. Many thanks

travis_h

Welcome to yotatech! Wow almost 400k awesome.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

For a good clutch, refer to Marlin Crawler. Stock Aisin components, so they last.
Stock set up is their 900lb unit. You can go stronger if you like.

Call your local Yota dealer and find out who they use for a machine shop. Take your flywheel to that shop. They would be experienced in getting the correct step on the flywheel. Replace your pressure plate bolts and rear crank seal with Toyota parts. Even if its not leaking. You only want that tranny out one time....

donomite49

i bought a transmission jack from harbor freight (the screw type) when i did my engine swap, sure makes the job a whole lot easier.

btw what engine have you racked up all those miles on.you must have really been hotrodding that yota to go through a clutch that fast! ha ha.

Donster

Thanks Rokblok..I'm hoping I can get the parts locally (Albuquerque). I will try to locate the Marlin clutch kit. An aquaintance of mine explained that I can get by without removing flywheel, simply scratch it up with some 90 grit paper, but I am leary about not having it resurfaced properly. I will take your advice and have it done for sure. I also whole heartedly agree with replacing the rear main crank seal. I did the front and it was cake, hopefully the back is similar. Thanks again. BTW, I have searched high and low for any information regarding the weight of the tranny w/transfer attached. I want to get the 450 lb. tranny jack from harbor freight to do the job, but I am not sure if it is adequite. Donomite49, thanks for adding to this, did you get the small tranny jack from harbor freight, and found it to be enough? What engine you ask? 3vze 3 litre v6.

NickMiller

Welcome to the forums! Always nice to see a Toyota with their original owner (especially when they take care of them)! Gook luck replacing your clutch!

HighLux

Welcome. I wish I had kept the ones I bought new...lol.

donomite49

yea, it will work fine, mine is an auto and it looked like it would carry a lot more weight.
central hydraulics model #39178

and as rokblok said, stay OEM toyota you'll be fine like you already know after the mileage you have gotten out of your truck.

if you go aftermarket make sure it is an improvement over stock.

rworegon

Welcome aboard!

I'm 200k miles behind yours since buying mine with 0.8 miles on the odometer in Aug. '95.
Good luck with the upcoming work.

donomite49

the tranny jack comes in handy for other things too, i put a board on it and used it for a mini welding table(my custom crossover) or a seat, but it does work great for trans. soo much easier.

my auto and gear drive TC weighs maybe two hundred pounds.

tacoma0096

Hey Donster… like you I’m the original owner of a 96 SR5 4x4 with 290,000 on it. It’s been in the shop twice, once for a head-gasket recall and second for an AC leak in the suction hose.
I had the belts and water pump changed by the dealer about 70,000 mi ago.

Today I’m changing the belts, tension rollers and the AC compressor. I dropped something down the defroster vents and now I gets to remove the dash just to discover what the heck I dropped…
The defrost controls told me they ant gona do no more work until I rid them of that foreign object…
Go figure..

FYI: I changed my oil every 10,000 with Castrol Synthetic 10w30. I put 5oz of MMO for every 10 gal of gas. The truck runs great…. Looking for 600,000….
(Marvel Mystery Oil)

I have an automatic…. Cant help ya wid the clutch part…

This is my current issue … (Just in case)….

Good luck wid ya clutch…….

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

I bought the little ratchet crank scissor type jack from HF to swap my tranny and t-case. It was awkward and a little scary in regards to stability, but it held the weight fine. I would be fine using any upgraded one above the scissor style. Just keep an eye on it lowering on its own if its hydraulic. I've heard of the HF hydraulic cylinders losing pressure.

For the low cost of getting flywheel machined, and since you have to remove it to do the rear seal, I would recommend it. The front seal is just a larger diameter version of the front. Piece of cake.

ThatGuy1295

Ya its always a good idea to have it done. The sandpaper trick comes from old mechanics advise IMO back when the factory machine work wasnt that great to begin with. But this is a yota.


BTW what motor is this in your rig? I read threw but didnt see it anywhere.

Donster

My Engine is the 3vze, 3 litre, v-6. It still runs like the day i bought it. I adjusted the valves at 160,000, found one exhaust valve nearly closed, brought 'em all to spec, checked 'em again at 360,000 miles and none of the gaps had changed. Other than that the engine has had no work (except a couple of timing belts), and I did not have to replace the head gasket as so many others, unfortunatley, have had to do. I do wish it got better distance between the gas pumps, though..

Donster

Thanks all.

NickMiller

This guys truck is living proof that when maintained correctly, the 3VZ-E isn't a horrible engine like most people speculate.