new here, rough idle
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: washington state
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
new here, rough idle
hey guys im new here, i just joined, ive been lurking around here trying to find the problem to my rough idle. it seems like when its cold it will start up just fine and idle fine but after about 5 minutes of idleing when its warm it starts to idle rough and very low and then it eventually dies, but it will start right back up most of the time but once in awhile it will just keep cranking and not start. i just replaced the alternator in it and also while i was reading i read that it might be a leak in the tube from the Plenum down to the Air Valve, what exactly is that? where is it? by the way its a 93 toyota 2wd pickup 22RE 4 cylinder. any help is appreciated
#3
Registered User
hey guys im new here, i just joined, ive been lurking around here trying to find the problem to my rough idle. it seems like when its cold it will start up just fine and idle fine but after about 5 minutes of idleing when its warm it starts to idle rough and very low and then it eventually dies, but it will start right back up most of the time but once in awhile it will just keep cranking and not start. i just replaced the alternator in it and also while i was reading i read that it might be a leak in the tube from the Plenum down to the Air Valve, what exactly is that? where is it? by the way its a 93 toyota 2wd pickup 22RE 4 cylinder. any help is appreciated
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: washington state
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds very similar to what I had in my previous 22RE before I moved into the 3VZE territory. My original 22RE had some horrible internals due to bent valves and a leaking head gasket before blowing. Regular maintenance like cap, rotor, spark plugs, plug wires, checking for vacuum leaks is always a good start. If all those are in check see if the TPS is out of sync. Start with the easy things before diving else were.
#5
Registered User
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: washington state
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Welcome to Yotatech!
This is what the cap and rotor look like. Its part of the distributor. It's a good idea to replace them when u change ur plugs and wires.
Attachment 91315
This is what the cap and rotor look like. Its part of the distributor. It's a good idea to replace them when u change ur plugs and wires.
Attachment 91315
thanks, yea i just called the auto store and the rotor is only like 5 bucks so thats good but they didint have caps in stock? my current cap is a bosch anyone know if thats stock on these things? and is there a certain brand of plugs that are good to get or to stay away from? im on a budget so dont have alot to spend. thanks again
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: washington state
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: washington state
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
got a new problem, after installing the alternator the belt squeaks pretty loud at low rpm's, the belt is pretty tight, just tight enough so it has about 1/2 inch of slack
#10
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
They just wear out. Every time the rotor comes in contact with the next point on the cap you get a small arc and over time those arcs add up and it just slowly burns it away. You have to replace them every so often so the electricity can still get a good path to the plugs.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post