hey i dont know where else to go, i have a 91 4runner which i swapped the engine with one that came from a 93 pickup, both with the 3vze, im not sure if the difference in years makes a difference. it ran great and then all the sudden it lost all its power, when i got it home i pulled the distributor off and it was ceased, you cant turn it by hand. also i have a 22re pickup, 89, and this morning after hearing an odd noise from the engine compartment, i poped the hood and got sprayed with coolant. non of the hoses were disconnected from what i could see. it was at 6 am..... so dark. any thoughts on either situations?

 

on the 89 22RE: could be a leaky hose, split..bust out the flash light

 

Check your distributer, there were 2 different models made that I'm aware of.

Check out
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...p-asap-225109/

Dunno if it will help, but mine was having a similar problem.

 

ive had three different distributors on the 3.0 and it runs the same everytime. it backfires at higher rpms but never gets past 5000. most the time i can barely get it started but i always have to give it gas when i do get it started it runs terrible

 

oh also, what is the wire that come right out of the engine block itself for?.... its right underneath the throttle body. does this wire affect the way the motor runs?

 

By the way the 4runner is 1991 5 speed 3.0 and the donor motor is from a 93 PU 5 speed.
The wire hes refferring to comes up from the lower air manifold (lowest part of plenum), if i remember right, on the driver side of motor

 

Oh yeah, it affects how the engine runs alright. That's the knock sensor wire.

Why? Did you do something dumb like disconnect it?

 

dunno with these but on GM cars it throws a cel light and backs the timing off if you disco the knock....learned that leason changing a starter on a mid 90"s chevy pickup.

is the cel on?

 

clarify this for me. will the engine still crank over? or the the dizzy gaulded?

 

that wire i was talking about um.. when i put the other motor in the connection on that sesor is different than the connection to the wiring harness so what i did was ran a small wire on each terminal to conect them.. if that made sense. im not sure if i have them in the right spot.. ill go check that. and yes the engin will crank over and run..... barely with like 250 rpm

 

Do you still have the knock sensor sitting around in the old engine? I'd swap it out so that you have a proper connection to your factory wire harness. Even if you get the wires to the correct terminals you are likely to change the resistance by patching in your own wire.

 

If you have a pressure tester, hook that up and pressurize the system. It will start leaking from the leak in the pressure system unless it started leaking when its cold only then you could probably have a leaking rad or water pump.