new to 22re, have extensive mechanical background and a serious issue, please help
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
new to 22re, have extensive mechanical background and a serious issue, please help
ok, ive been here for a while but havent posted yet. im having a few issues with my newly aquired 91 pickup, 22re, 5spd, 4wd. im having overheating issues. ive replaced the water pump, fan clutch, radiator, thermostat, and cap. still getting hot. has working heat inside truck only sometimes, steams from dash....thinking heater core, but also has another issue. a racing idle, when cold, runs fine, once at temp, idle gets lopey when i press the brakes, and races when off. idle adjustment screw is at lowest setting, ive checked for vac leaks. cant figure it out. help?
also, no coolant in oil, no smoke.
also, no coolant in oil, no smoke.
Last edited by myotherrideidplastik; 11-27-2010 at 03:52 PM.
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: middle of no where Alaska
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
You say no coolant in oil, etc., but are you losing coolant?
I didnt get any smoke when my HG went. Just loss of coolant, overheating and little to no heat out of the heaters.
I didnt get any smoke when my HG went. Just loss of coolant, overheating and little to no heat out of the heaters.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
only out of the overflow.
didnt really think hoses could cause that much heat buildup.
didnt really think hoses could cause that much heat buildup.
Last edited by myotherrideidplastik; 11-27-2010 at 04:08 PM.
#6
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
A pressure tester is your friend.
I would check that first before pulling it all apart.
What problem first brought on this parts changing of the cooling system??
It is very easy to get a air bubble in the cooling system that will cause it to over heat and push coolant out the over flow. (Just like a blown head gasket)
If you have a strong smell of antifreeze in the cab it may be the heater core
Some just let it idle till it gets warm with the radiator cap off.
What I do is put a flushing tee in the heater hose just before the heater valve. Remove the cap very careful and vent out the air
I would check that first before pulling it all apart.
What problem first brought on this parts changing of the cooling system??
It is very easy to get a air bubble in the cooling system that will cause it to over heat and push coolant out the over flow. (Just like a blown head gasket)
If you have a strong smell of antifreeze in the cab it may be the heater core
Some just let it idle till it gets warm with the radiator cap off.
What I do is put a flushing tee in the heater hose just before the heater valve. Remove the cap very careful and vent out the air
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
the truck is a recent buy for me, it was sitting for about 3 years before i got it. threw a battery on, changed fluids, took it for a drive, and it decided to overheat. changed t-stat, still overheated,changed water pump and radiator. drove fine after that, drove it for 5 hours with no issues but the idle. at that point the heat worked fine, with no smell of antifreeze in the cab. the funky idle has been there since i got it. its lopey off the brake too. and when i hit the gas the idle will race and take a lil while to go back down.
Trending Topics
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
ill look into that, currently flushing cooling system repeatedly. could the fan clutch afect it too? i hear it when i start the truck for a min, then i dont hear it again at all
#10
Registered User
If your getting steam out of the vents, then the heater core is leaking. For the high idle or sticking throttle, pull the throttle body and give it a good cleaning, also make sure the vacuum ports arn`t plugged.
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Nashville TN. I can help you if you're close BUT NOBODY CAN HELP YOU IF YOU DON'T FILL YOUR LOCATION IN!
Posts: 1,818
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
You need to find a vac. diagram and double check all of them.
Then, this is brake/ idle related: http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...e-pressed.html
Then, this is brake/ idle related: http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...e-pressed.html
#13
Registered User
It should be on the underside of your hood. If not, then you will have to search for a member named "iamsuperbleeder" and in his signature line there will be a link to download the FSM for your year of truck.
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
ok cool, after flushing the system again last night, the coolant that came out was brown and rusty. the heat now works pretty well, and the temps are all over. one min its running nice and cool, the next its getting hot.
#15
Registered User
SOunds like air pockets to me, not sure on the 22re but on the 3.0 its very common to get air pockets in the temp sensor housing, when that happens the computer has no idea if the engine is warm or not and can do very odd things.
There are some threads on here about different ways to get the air pockets out, parking up hill, loosening one end of particular hoses, on the 3.0 I loosened the hose right on the temp sensor housing and that took care of my problem.
There are some threads on here about different ways to get the air pockets out, parking up hill, loosening one end of particular hoses, on the 3.0 I loosened the hose right on the temp sensor housing and that took care of my problem.
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: brookville pa
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As others have said its hard to get all the air out of the cooling system, and it also probably has something to do with your idle. Park uphill/on ramps or whatever you need to do to make sure the fill-neck is above the rest of the system. Even doing this it usually takes me at least three cycles of warming up to temp and then cooling back down with the cap on to get it full.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
FS[SouthEast]: Mercury Villager Fan & DCC Fan Controller
coryc85
Misc Stuff (Vehicle Related)
6
09-09-2015 06:24 AM