Pretty confident, I made sure to mark all lines before disconnecting, it also ran fine for a good while, i drove to in-laws 30 miles away just fine, then started surging on way home, it sat a few hours before heading home

 

That's all its ever take for me. Some suggest parking on a hill. Nose up.

Good. Yeah give this a try!!

 

Thanks again man, I'll let you know how it turns out

 

No problem man. Hey also when you do this, turn your temperature in your truck to hot air. Not the blower fan just the temperature to hot.. This will make your coolant circulate through heater core also

 

You need to get the front of the truck up high enough to make the radiators filler neck the highest point in the system. Optimally you'd want it higher than the heaters flow control valve located on the firewall. The Lisle NoSpill Funnel is a great tool for adding height and keeping coolant from going all over the place. I use it and still jack the front end up as high as I can.

Some trucks don't have the heaters temperature selection/flow control cable adjusted to allow the valve to fully open when the controller is slid into the hot position from inside the truck, this will make it harder to bleed. You might want to disconnect the cable and fully open the valve then readjust it after bleeding the system. Another thing that helps dispel trapped air is making sure the thermostat you're using has a jiggle valve in it or at least a 1/16 inch hole drilled in it for air to pass through.

Keep the heaters blower motor switched OFF and slide the temp switch to full hot.
From that point let it warm up without the cap on and watch for the coolant to start rushing by the filler neck. That means the thermostat is now at least partially open. Now keep the engine around 2500+ to keep the water flow up and keep adding coolant as needed.


Eventually it won't want to take in any more coolant and the thermostat will be fully open, it'll take a while to get there though. At this point most of the air is out but not all of it and what's trapped in there can still cause rough idle or idle surge issues. You don't want air pockets around the air idle control valve or the temperature sensor that tells the ECU the engine is at operating temperature.

After that I'll let it idle for a minute then snap the throttle open till the engine hits about 3500-4000 to create pressure surges in the system. This helps drive out air pockets that may be sitting up high or at sharp bends. Pushing on the hoses at the sharper bends while the rpm is high also helps. I repeat this several times before I'm done. It'll usually take me 30 minutes or more before I consider it job done on my truck.




Although it's normal to make sure the radiator cap is good so the system holds pressure some don't consider that the system also draws coolant in from the overflow bottle when it cools down.
Consider the hose that goes to the overflow bottle a vacuum hose. If it fits loosely at the radiator or overflow bottle or it has a crack/hole in it your system will be drawing in air whenever it cools down. Since the system wants to draw coolant in as it cools down ANY dampness around a hose filled with water is another area for air to get in while the system cools down. Follow all of your hoses and make sure there are no "Slight" leaks or you'll soon have enough trapped air to once again cause problems.

You just might find a new leak source now that the system is full of coolant and being asked to hold full pressure for extended periods. I like to reexamine All of the hose ends a couple times a week after a good bleeding. For F.I. don't forget the hoses that go to and from the idle air control valve.

 

I have found the easy way to do this is to just put a flushing tee in the heater hose next to the heater valve.

Since at times I was draining coolant pretty often .

filling the system it pushes the air out the open cap coolant comes out done.

Put cap back on done.

It worked so good all my 22R series engines have them.

 

Think I have it figured out, the idle air screw on throttle body backed out, also would like to know, is it common for 22re's usually have some pressure blowing out of the oil fill cap when it's off while running?

 

Yes that is normal. Should bog down a bit if cap is removed while running.

Where you at now?

 

Ok that's a relief to hear, I have yet to time it with a light, buddy is letting me borrow his light tomorrow, I screwed the idle air all the way down then backed out 1.5 turns,does that sound right?it's ideling about 900rpms,

 

Okay cool. That will be close enough until you're able to time it and drive it some more and time it again and drive it even more. All while trying to get idle set right.

You'll want to set your idle with that idle screw on throttle body when engine is fully warmed up. Otherwise it will be inaccurate. Took me about a week or so of adjusting every evening after work till I got timing and idle perfect.

When all said and done you want to be idling between 750-800 rpms with engine fully warmed up.
And set timing at 5 degrees BTDC with terminals TE1 and E1 jumped in diagnostics box.
When you pull the jumper off you should be sitting at about 12 degrees BTDC

 

Update?

 

Sorry for the slow response, it's been running good, just turned over 400 miles so was going to change oil and retorque the head and check valve lash

 

Also got the timing adjusted to.