Hey -

New calipers this weekend...and of course, new short brake lines from them to the rubber ones! First real brake job beyond pads for me. After about 8 hrs., the removal (toughest part) and reinstall went pretty well....except for the bleeding.

While bleeding, I knocked around my LSPV (tried to crack the frozen bleeder). I broke the line running from the top of it to the hose for the rear brakes...ouch. No WAY I'm getting the rounded-over fitting out of the LSPV in the vehicle (it's cable-tied, not welded on...). I did get the other end of the fitting out of the rear hose (phew), so that part is ok.

There are 2 lines running to/from the front, on the LSPV. They look in reasonable shape, but are frozen. I have them soaking overnight in PB. I'm very worried that I'll round them when taking them off. I will get an actual 10mm flare wrench tomorrow!

The real question here is - what are my options if I can't get the 2 lines off? Way I see it, I could cut those fittings off, get a flare tool, and put new fittings on....I've never tried that, how bad is that to do? Then, with LSPV out, I can loosed the bleeder and try to get the broken/rounded fitting out of the top (the rear output).

OR - should I just try to find a new LSPV? And - anyone know what size that fitting at the top IS? It didn't seem like 10mm....wondering about where I'm going to find a brake line for it if it's not standard.....

Guess I am wondering what a 'guru' would do here....this is a bummer, after a manic brake job all weekend!! Ugh. As far as I can see, though, the line that broke is the last of the crappy ones on the truck (for now). And I learned how to bend brake line fairly well

Thoughts?

Thanks!

 

For what it is worth I have never been able to flare a old brake line the metal just gets to brittle and the flares crack.

you do know these are double flared ??

The Lspv can be a real pain I think I paid like $ i30.00 ?? I could be wrong in my one and only attempt to bleed one not in our part of the world at least

The nut you rounded should have been 10mm but no telling what could have been put on there.

Sorry your brake job became a nightmare.

Remove the LSPV run a new line to the tee on the rear axle . From the rear brake section of the Master Cylinder

remember to block the lines coming to the front

install a adjustable brake proportion valve :jessica:

or get all new Lspv valve and related hardware from your local dealer who very shortly you will be on a first name basis with all the employees

 

Thanks, WY....yeah, I get the gist of it. Hopefully this is the last bad line/part! At least for THIS winter. I have a few sources to just get a new used LSPV....a buddy of mine knows everyone into toyotas, and there are more than 1 salvage places around. No way I'm paying $130, LOL! Maybe $20 (if I'm lucky!). I'm back to the rubber line going to the axle, and it is ok (for now). Just that damn LSPV with its broken fitting staring at me and laughing....

I just have to be WICKED careful, then, not to screw up those 2 lines going to the front, huh? I have a thing for rounding over brake fittings with a 10mm crescent wrench, ruining them forever. That is why people buy flare wrenches! I don't even WANT to try to flare new ends, or replace the whole lines to the front, etc!

The whole job, overall, hasn't been too bad, and after it's done then the next time will be a LOT easier! (unless something else associated breaks, too, he he!).

 

MAN! Ok - got the LSPV out in 1 piece...cleaned it up, used hot/cold/hot/cold to free the broken rear brake line fitting. I managed to not ruin my lines running front to back!!! Freed the bleeder on it, and re-installed. Now comes the notorious "FILL AND BLEED", Toyota style....

Thanks for the info, guys. And a word here for all other noobs:

Do Not Ever Even LOOK At A Brake Line Or Bleeder Without a 10MM FLARED WRENCH!!!!! You will be very sorry if you do, LOL.

 

I just did this last week on mine. Chopped out the LSPV and ran all new Nicopp lines so they will never rust out again. Plugged the T up by the front pass tire and installed a Summit adjustable valve - easy peasy! My LSPV was so crusted up that nothing would come out the rear bleeders. Bet it was clever back in 88, today it's just a pain

 

gotta do the same to my rig. got a trail gear rear line and just scored a willwood proportioning valve for cheap from a friend that will not use it on his race car.

 

Got everything freed, and back in. Rear brakes, but no fronts
There's NO air left in the system, even bench bled the MC.

I think I put the pads in backwards....yeah, I feel totally like a noob.