ok. my title's a joke, so don't freak out. i've just read every link posted in reply #6 of this post:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120/buying-3rd-gen-4runner-what-look-99994/

but i'd still like a little info if you've got a moment.

I found a desert dune '98 limited w/locking diff and 65k in very nice shape (though the lumbar deflater is dead). A bit of a pulse in harder braking (warped rotors?) and a wobble in the steering wheel (alignment/balance?), but otherwise it looks good. it's listed at 12.9 but the guy says he'll take 11.7. the trucks in the LA area and he's the first owner. he appears not to have done a timing belt change yet, since i don't see it in his paperwork.

my Qs:

sound like a decent deal? kbb = 12.9 but Edmunds is 10.3

any major reason to go with a 99-00 besides cup holders (which i don't care about), restyled front-end (which i don't particularly like), added height, and the AWD option (which might be useful? but might just lead to more mechanical failures?)

how helpful would you'all say that AWD is? keep in mind i live in southern cali.

how exactly do i check for rear-axle leak?

i don't plan on doing any heavy 4wheeling, though if i get this truck i will look around for something light.

reason for buying:

i basically need something big enough to tote my 4 mutts around that's smaller than my expy and will be easier for my lady to drive. this truck is supposed to be reliable, it looks pretty good, seems quite modable, and it may be fun to try a little 4wheelin (if there's anything in my area).

thanks for all and any comments,
alex

 

...anybody... ;(

should i post this in another forum?

were these bad questions?

is it the title?

why do you'all hate me!?

 

Nobody hates you, my toyota brother.

IMHO I think that is a pretty good deal, the brakes are normal wear and tear, and so is the alignment. The only thing AWD would be useful for would be rainy conditions or for some reason if you wanted 4wd on the pavement. They are very reliable, and then it has somewhat low miles...not sure about the timing chain though!

 

I think it sounds fair... Doesn't mean the guy can't go down any further. Offer him 11,500. But in actuality, I think his lowest price is pretty good. Plus, it has the e-locker. Something that seems to be hard to find. On the AWD, though nice, I wouldn't say it's necessary. Oh, we hate you because you're a squid! hahaha j/k

 

thanks for the replies guys, i don't feel so rejected now!

i guess one of the main concerns i have is from reading previous posts their seems to be a strong inclination towards the 99 & 00 models. i'd rather not be inadequate.

i offered him 10,500, but he respectfully declined and said 11,500 is the lowest he can go.

by the way, nice trucks guys.

kevin, why does your truck appear to have beady-eyes in some of your pics? and why am i a squid (or is that just random)?

alex

 

Heh heh. I did an HID (High Intensity Discharge) retrofit on my truck. Heh heh. I used projectors out of a BMW 3 series. I said squid because in some social circles (streetbikes for example) use it as a term for "newbie". Hehe. I retained some lingo from when I had my bike hahahah. Thanks for the compliments! Also, 11,500 is a hell of a price. I'd go for it in a heartbeat! The 1999 models to me only have one advantage over the '98's in my book.. That's the clear headlights. But the 98 style headlights are easily swapped out for the clear lensed 99 styles.

 

nice, so in the dark you look like a flying beamer!

that does look pretty slick, and i imagine it illuminates the road much better than stock.

so, i've got one vote to go for it. thanks for the input.

al

 

I say go for it as well, sounds like a hell of a deal.

 

go / no go - 2 / 0

just did a little search, and i guess the timing belt isn't slated to go till 90k+. so that's one less thing i'll have to worry about.

 

98 ltd's w/ a lockers rule 65 K is pretty low miles...so most likely TB hasnt been done. do it & you know youre good to go for another 60+. look behind the rear brakes where it connects to the axle. if you see streaks that stretch out to the edge of the back of the tire (as if fluids would be on the back of the tire while its rotating)..could be leaky axles.

the awd mode found in the 99-00's isnt something i think youd probably need...hell i dont need it. we dont see much snow here ('cept the last 3 weeks) so mostly rain where normal rwd works just great.

uhh..wrong . you wont find any better truck thats more reliable/capable, better looking, mild to wild mods. itll put the 'fun' in your wheeling experience.

 

Correct.

Could be the tires, wheel balancing issues, or a worn steering rack or bushings. My bet is on #2, but you might want to have that confirmed or use it as leverage in the price.

Pull off the wheel, then the drum. You'll see (and smell) if there's a leak present. And just a word of caution, the dealer is going to want $1000 to $1500 to do both seals and the rear brakes. However, if you can wrench a bit, you can do it for under $100.

It seems like an ok deal, especially since the mileage is low. However, do some looking around on ebay and the net and see what else you can find. I have seen some really nice 99's and up going for about that price range with less miles.

 

sonny / christian - thanks for the tips and input.

kinda sounds like it's got the look of a brake fluid leak

really? i haven't seen anything close to this price, and under 80k in my area, certainly not 99 and up. but then i've only been looking a few weeks. and i haven't been looking on ebay. i just can't imagine buying i car before i test drive it.

christian - i love your hurculined bumper idea. wonder how'd that look on a light colored truck?

al

 

I like working my truck in 2wd so I like being able to engage 4wd when needed. Plus its easy to make donuts in 2wd. On that note OT-my Subaru is AWD and yes it does kick in when you least expect it(kinda like a locker it kicks the power to the wheel that would normally spin) and is great in the snow, (I haven't been able to slide it and I have tried). Hope this helps!!

 

I've purchased two 4runners on ebay; one was a 00 with 16K miles for $15K, and the other had 197K miles and was in just amazing condition (it was my donor rig for the supercharger) for $7K. Yes, you are taking a chance, but with some good investigative skills and a little bit of luck, you can really score. Another thing you can do is have someone check it out for you before buying it. There are used car services out there that will do it for a small fee, on site.

Thanks, I am glad you like the Herc'd bumpers, etc. If you ever want to know what it will look like, make a thread with your rig and one of us will photochop it for you.

Good luck in your quest. And remember: Don't compromise for something you don't want! I made the mistake of getting mine without a locker, then I ended up swapping one in because it was such a pain off-road. Live and learn!

 

what would you'all think about strappin a supercharger to the above mentioned 4r ('98 limited 65k 4wd)?

would it kill the tranny? is the 'v' (or something like that, i'll have to do another search) tranny upgrade a must? - i don't have a light foot.

and is a proper fuel inj upgrade also a must do along with the s/c?

the trucks with the factory installed s/c didn't have any other upgrades did they (beside the TRD stickers)?

al

 

Yes, the extra power will eventually smoke the 1-2 clutch pack. It's called the valve body upgrade, or VB upgrade.

Fuel and timing mods are a must, yes. That is unless you like to play Russian roulette with your engine.

TRD stickers don't mean it's supercharged. It's just a suspension and locking differential package really. TRD/Toyota screwed up the SC'r thing pretty bad. At one point they offered a full refund-type campaign to remove the superchargers from those customers who had them installed and were not happy with the results (see pinging issues). Then they offered the FMU mod fix, which Gadget actually came up with (his claim). Then they offered the 7th injector kit...etc, etc.

There are people that will tell you things are just fine without the fuel/timing mods. They are the same folks that do not have an EGT gauge, AFR, or ScanTool to take a look at what's REALLY going on with the engine. Let me tell you, it's not pretty without the mods...

 

yeah, i noticed in my searching last night that there are several posters out there who say that they're doing fine w/out any additional mods for upto 100k miles on their superchargers.

but then there seem to be just as many who say their trucks weren't running fine w/just the supercharger. and i also noticed that there were several posters, such as you, who say even if things seem hunky-dory, they're not. "There's the pinging you can't hear..."

so...2.2k for the s/c, 1k for VB (installed?), and 1k for the fuel upgrade...about $4~4.5k to properly upgrade the truck to a s/c. hmmm, wonder if it's worth it.

i do like the 4runner, but it's sooo slow. my 10,000,000,000 lb expy could kick it's but off the line.

 

just noticed someone edited my title! this place is a bit uptight, eh. i didn't think that was offensive since it was just a joke. figured i'd break the ice since you guys must be sick of the ol' looking to buy question.

oh well, now my title's boring.

 

I'm glad to see that your getting over the, "every one hates me syndrom."
Now lets get down to the busniess of buying your next ride. Do a carfax! find out if the guy is telling you the truth about the 4Runner your looking at. If so your next step is to get a good Mechanic to look at it. See what it really does need.... Don't just guess, know for sure. Then get ready to negoate the deal. If you live in an area where 4Runners are scarce you will have to pay the price. I also think you might be able to get this guy down a little more.... Try this after you have the Mechanic look at it and then if it needs any thing you can use that as leverege to get him a little lower, also when your ready to do that, be ready to buy. Have cash, or a cashiers check, if you don't get it for your price you can always have the bank issue him a new check, but be ready to buy!! Remember if it looks fishy on car fax it probally is and remember it has a 30/30 warrenty.

Which means 30Ft. or 30 seconds after you hand him your cash. Also make him give you a bill of sale. Clearly pointing out the date and the final price and then you both sign it.

Now get off your pitty pot and get that 4Runner out there and take the dogs out 4 wheeling!!!!

TJ

 

thanks for the tips TJ. i'm just waiting for him to email me the VIN, and i'll have her properly checked out. though i'm 95% positive nothing will show up. i'm also 95% positive he wont go down any more, and i think 11.5 is a pretty good price for this truck. there are actually many 4runners selling in my area, but everything comparable to this one is going for thousands more.

my "why do you'all hate me" post was a complete tongue-and-cheek sarcastic bump, i thought that was completely obvious...apparently not.