Here's the pics I've taken I tried to post this on my other thread but wouldn't work. All bolts off Intake still having trouble. This is a pic of the Thermostat Housing there was supposed to be a 8mm Hex bolt where my screw is but it was not there? Could that have caused the Coolant to leak into the oil? I'm clueless, any advice would help.

Problem solved, The thermostat housing Hex bolt was missing completely. I'm going to replace it with a regular bolt instead.

 

I am assuming this is the 3.0 motor? I cant make it out with my small screen I am looking at currently. From the looks of it and seeing a red injector, I am assuming it is 88-95.

 

89 22re, great running truck. It has a blown head gasket. The head gasket kit and head bolts should be here Friday. I'm ready to get her back on trails here here in Kentucky. This is my first Yota, an Yota rebuild! Thanks to Yotatech, there's a lot of good information here to help me along the way.

 

I am not sure how to send pictures from an Iphone, I use photobucket and a computer. I am slow to learn new technology.

You have an 85-94 motor. They are all the same, it is just the newer the truck is, the more the emissions. Even a carbureted truck motor is the same, just a few pieces that need changed to make one interchange from one truck to the next.

If you have a blown head gasket, have the head checked at a machine shop. The shop I use charges me $35 just to see if the head is good and worth fixing. There can be several issues with a head. Warped and corroded out water ports are common on a 22 motor. For myself I will not spend more then $100 for machine work on one. You can buy a new head for about $250. I get mine off of ebay for $300 for an entire new head with bolts, gaskets and other things needed for a top end rebuild.

I have a factory service manual and a Haynes repair manual. I rebuilt a motor following along in both manuals and a Haynes will do great for what you are wanting to do. Factory manuals can be hard to come by but a Haynes is easily ordered from your local parts store. Stay away from Chilton manuals, they are not for people that are new to different trucks.

Doing a top end rebuild takes quite a bit of time. If you have the tools and space available, I suggest pulling the motor. It will save your back from all of the bending over and you can seal up leaks and other issues while it is out. If you have the head off already, it is just a few more steps to pull the motor and really not much more time, for me an hour or two. Pulling a motor is not necessary just something I do for a top end rebuild.

Doing a top end rebuild is not to bad on these but it does take quite a bit of time. Most of it is just cleaning all of the parts, threads, sensors, egr and other things. Unless you know the timing chain is good, I suggest replacing it too. It isn't much more for cost and should be changed at 100k miles if memory serves me right.

As far as how I keep the timing chain together,it doesn't really show, but I did zip tie it on the bottom of the Camshaft gear also. I was afraid it might come off of the bottom tooth on the Crankshaft.

 

I took the head to a local machine shop an had them check it out. Which it checked out good to go. I talked to LCEngineering an I got the advice about putting the wire ties around the timing chain that way I didn't have to pull the timing cover off? Which I'm still scatchy about the timing chain on the bottom. I sure don't want to get it all back together an it be out of time! Which the chain is resting on the guides. Should I be alright without having to take off the timing cover?