Hose Clamps for Rad Hoses
#1
Hose Clamps for Rad Hoses
I replaced all my hose clamps a while back, when I replaced my hoses. Once I was done patting myself on the back for being so smart for doing preventative maintenance, I noticed I was losing coolant. Quite a bit too, and it was dripping all over my alternator, which later went out. So I tightened up the clamps as tight as tight as I could get them, but they're still leaking.
These are just regular hardware store-type hose clamps I bought at Pep Boys, and they're obviously not up to the task,
Where is a good source for clamps that won't leak?
These are just regular hardware store-type hose clamps I bought at Pep Boys, and they're obviously not up to the task,
Where is a good source for clamps that won't leak?
#2
Contributing Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5,125
Likes: 4
From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
The smooth inside of these clamps do not chew up the hose and in the correct diameter have never failed me in auto or boating applications. McMaster has tons of styles to choose from.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#constant-te...clamps/=bf7ow6
http://www.mcmaster.com/#constant-te...clamps/=bf7ow6
#3
I struggled with this some time back. Similar situation. i was replacing some faulty hose for prevenative yadda yadda what ever. Turns out the screw type clamps suck for some reason on yotas (and other cars for that matter) I had some old left over spring clamps from a 22re lying around. Well couldn't get any worse i figured and installed those. Guess what no leaks! After talking to a friend of mine that is very well versed in all things toyota he assured me the oem spring type clamps work the best and provide a good tension and when paired with oem hoses tend to last longer and need less attention. As with most things on these trucks they all like oem toyota parts. There is a reason they last as long as they do from the factory it's because the FACTORY parts are well built and stronger than most after market solutions such as a screw type clamp. My last little truck for example had an after market clamp and hose on the radiator and guess what leaked when i got finished up with the timing chain? The crappy after market hoses that's what. I replaced them with toyota factory parts with some toyota spring clamps i had around the shop and presto no more leaks. My 2 cents for ya just get oem stuff unless it's proven better. Might cost a little more but lets be honest i'd rather pay more for quality as opposed to fixing it twice.
#4
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5,125
Likes: 4
From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
Good points MM. I have Toyota hoses, 2 of the original Toyota spring clamps, and 2 of the clamps above on mine for the past 5+ years with no problems. The trick with the screw clamps seems to be to not overtighten them. My 0.02 worth.
#5
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Interesting I have a bunch of these vehicles I have never had a problem with worm drive clamps on coolant hoses.
Then again I keep up with the hoses so most times I am talking about new hoses and new clamps rather then old ready to fail hose with used clamps
Or for that matter on the intake piping .
Now Fuel injection and Turbo clamps are a different story and one shouldn`t go cheap in that area
Then again I keep up with the hoses so most times I am talking about new hoses and new clamps rather then old ready to fail hose with used clamps
Or for that matter on the intake piping .
Now Fuel injection and Turbo clamps are a different story and one shouldn`t go cheap in that area
#6
Had a heck of a time finding this thread after it was moved to the "Newbie Tech Section". I thought there was usually a link you could follow from where the post was originally. Some people just really love to moderate though, I guess.
Anyhow, I think part of my problem might be the aftermarket hoses I used. Seems like the auto parts stores sell "universal" hoses that will fit a wide variety of makes and models. But they don't alway fit too well.
So hose clamps are a dealer part? I hope the prices they charge are not too outrageous. Maybe I'll stop by see how much they're asking, but I really don't want to end up paying 20 or 30 dollars just for a hose clamp.
Anyhow, I think part of my problem might be the aftermarket hoses I used. Seems like the auto parts stores sell "universal" hoses that will fit a wide variety of makes and models. But they don't alway fit too well.
So hose clamps are a dealer part? I hope the prices they charge are not too outrageous. Maybe I'll stop by see how much they're asking, but I really don't want to end up paying 20 or 30 dollars just for a hose clamp.
#7
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#9
The "slots" on hose clamps tend to rupture the inner structure of radiator hoses. They delaminate the nylon weaving between the layers of rubber.
The delamination cause fissures which makes them leak. The harder you crank them down, the worse it gets.
OEM forever.
The delamination cause fissures which makes them leak. The harder you crank them down, the worse it gets.
OEM forever.
Last edited by Potomacduck; Mar 14, 2011 at 07:42 AM.
#10
Interesting, I've got hose (worm) clamps all over my vehicles without one leak from them. Not sure what what you are doing wrong. Over tightening them or they are the wrong size for the hose or the hose is the wrong size for the barb fitting or the fitting is dirty or pitted out...etc.
I agree that the factory spring clamps are better, mainly because they apply constant pressure through thermal expansion of the heat and cool down cycle. But they are harder to get on and off especially hard to reach hoses so I change them over to worm clamps first time I have them off.
If you have a pitted out surface where the hose makes contact use a little RTV on it to help seal.
I agree that the factory spring clamps are better, mainly because they apply constant pressure through thermal expansion of the heat and cool down cycle. But they are harder to get on and off especially hard to reach hoses so I change them over to worm clamps first time I have them off.
If you have a pitted out surface where the hose makes contact use a little RTV on it to help seal.
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