I have a 1988 toyota 4x4. When I got the truck the engine had been swapped out with a 1994 efi engine. When I bought it I found several problems with it. The truck Idles really bad. It will also spit and sputter going down the road it will only get up to about 35mph in third gear.

I found out that the prior owner bypassed the fuel filter! Omg. In his words "it was clogged so I just took it off." So after several days I found one and put it on. I also replaced the plugs and wires. I noticed that when I unplug the MAF or AFM ( im not sure which one it is). My truck will idle great. Plug it back up and it runs like crap. I thought that might be the problem so I replaced the MAF. I still have the same problem. I also noticed that when its unplugged it idles great but I cant give it any gas. It will stall out. I dont know much about engines. So I need a little help.

 

I have the same symptoms that you are describing. If I can't figure out my issue by next weekend, a friend who is a professional mechanic will help me troubleshoot. Check out my thread
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...ebuild-267039/ I'll update when I resolve the problem.

 

Ok thanks

 

To get you started, check ignition timing. Remove the distributor cap and Put the engine at #1 top dead center. Move the timing mark back to 5 degrees before top dead center(BTDC). Once the crank is at #1, 5 degrees BTDC, the rotor should be pointing at the #1 spark plug wire. Loosen the distributor adjustment bolt and allign the signal generator to the signal pickup coil. This will set your ignition timing with basic hand tools.

 

Thanks, Kylefoo I'm learning as I go on this. The former owner claimed that the timing was a tooth off. But I would think that it would be back firing and running way worse. I had a mechanic put the laser on it and he told me that it was good. I just took it to a mechanic today. He is going to do a fuel pressure test etc... But I will definitely let you know if I find anything out. Again thanks for the advice.

 

I'm subscribed to your thread and will be happy to offer my advice! Do you have an oreilly autoparts or equivalent in your area? They have a program that allows you to rent tools such as a fuel pressure test kit. These old 4cyl. toyota trucks are relatively easy to service.
Based on your statement, I believe the previous owner (PO) is referring to valve timing, which is not the same as ignition timing. Ask your mechanic to do a compression test. If the valve timing is off your compression will be low.

 

Also, if I'm helping you with this I will ask you to refer to the factory service manual (fsm) I have copies of 85, 88 and 95 service manuals in PDF format which I can .zip and email to you. You have an 88 so you will need that manual for body electrical, suspension etc... If the po told you the motor is out of a 94 you would use the 95 manual to service the engine.

 

Ask your mechanic to check for any stored codes to start with before you end up throwing more parts at it.

 

Kylefoo, ksti. Thanks for the help. I do have several part stores in the area including a orielys. I could rent the parts but I'm still in the "Crawling" stages of mechanic work. It would be like giving the monkey in ksti's profile picture the tool and telling him to work on it. But thats why I joined this site to learn. Kylefoo ill pm you my email a fsm would be greatly appreciated. I went to orileys to get one but they didn't have it in stock. ksti I will ask the mechanic about the stores codes. I just found out that he has worked on my truck from when one of the former owners had it. Again thanks for yalls advice.

 

Here is how to get codes. Count the number of Check Engine Light flashes.




Setting timing.
A Timing Video I like Better. Set Crankshaft pulley to 5 degrees.
Timing Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qEQM...ature=youtu.be



Easy way to install distributor on Youtube.
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Use a paper clip instead of wire. I just used a piece of wire to demonstrate. I am assuming you are talking of the 4 cylinder 22re, they did start the V6 3.0 in 88 as well. If it were 87 and older it would of just been the 22re or 22r.

 

Thanks terrys87. It is a 4 cylinder 22re from a 94. My truck is a 88.

 

I really hate to rain on your parade but if this engine was run long without a fuel filter.

I would think at least your going to need your injectors cleaned if not replaced. **** Think injectors and dirt do not make a good mix anytime. ***

As the last owner should be near the top of the list for the Darwin Awards.

 

LoL Darwin awards, At the time I was putting on the fuel filter I was thinking maybe a punch to the throat. I think the injectors are around $36 each. I'm sure its got something to do with it.

 

Having the injectors cleaned and balanced is a great idea. When my injectors got seriously clogged, I could only limp along at like 30 mph and if I pushed the accelerator the engine would bog down..
I'm having trouble sending that pdf to you due to size restrictions. I take back what I said about needing two service manuals. I bet that they just put the long block out of the 94 in there and not all the sensors and ecu.

 

I'm thinking the same thing. Common sense would tell you if the fuel filter was clogged when you took it off. Theres trash in the lines and tank. Bypassing it is just going to allow trash to get into the injectors. Agian, I have no clue why that was done?

 

In your work replacing the fuel filter, I assume the phlenum was removed for easy access? If so, did you remember to cnnect the ground wire that grounds the injectors? This is a major factor that will cause such issues. It would not hurt to check and see... who knows if someone removes the fuel filter, they may have removed the ground too..

 

gtown1968, I dont know. I plan on going to the mechcanic today and asking about the injectors. I found a few things that were "rigged"under the hood. Hopefully I'll find out something today.

 

Injectors do breakdown at times, and can get very dirty, even clogged... Very rarely have I had much trouble with them... I have owned lots of yotas, and more often than not, the problems that were experienced came from the "rigging" mechanic work of others... Removing the fuel filter only testifies of mechanical ignorance, and leads one to think that other such ignorances of mechanics have also occured... Injectors could be filled with trash... Sensors??? Possibly... But if you didn't put the engine in yourself, it's highly likely that an oversight of something as simple as the injector ground wire not being connected could happen... Just open the hood and look at the down tubes of the intake phlenum, where it connects to the lower section... on one of those bolts there should be a wire grounded if it was done correctly...

 

Check your codes and clean your injectors. The injectors are pretty much a given since it was run with out a filter. While your injectors are out take that time to use the FSM and or Haynes to check your wireing and sensors. It is kinda tedious but you will have a much better understanding of what your looking at under the hood after your done.


If you are having trouble ziping and sending those files try a different email account. I send big PDFs a lot and msn and a few others don't allow big ones. I have had good success with yahoo and gmail.