rubronthroad

This problem is with a 91 toyota pickup 4wd, efi, it started making some weird noises when I start it, like static, then it would not start, battery test 12.4 engine off,then it did start, I would like to figure out what the problem is so I don't get stuck some where, I have some basic electrical skills, if someone could throw me some suggested tests, I should be able to carry them out
​​​​​​​ thanks

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Your getting static through your speakers ??

This noise is something else but this is the only reference you have

Is this while the key is in the start position (attempting to crank)

The engine cranks or it does not at this time??

It might be the contacts in the Circuit opening relay chattering

Chattering contacts or something arcing is about all I can think of that might sound like static

Then it might be any of the relays energized in the starting circuit

If the engine does not crank it might be arcing at the starter

Either the main battery cable or the solenoid connection

Relays can be tested by making some jumper leads

One with a fuse energize the coil most all relays are marked ..

If it makes your noise you found the bad one

rubronthroad

Thanks Wyoming, no the static noise is not from the speakers( don't have any) yes the truck did turn over after not wanting to, I am guessing there is a system of checking the relays and fuses until I find the problem, but will I be able to find the problem when the problem isn't present?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Pull the ignition switch and clean it, not the tumbler but the switch contacts and wiper.

You find intermittent electric issues by subjecting parts to to various stresses, load, impact, flex, heat and cold...

rubronthroad

Thanks, that sounds like a good place to start.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Yes I have found the threat of impact by a 5 pound hammer on electronic parts cures the problems .

I keep one handy by the computer it keeps it on the straight and narrow .

Kidding aside You just need to work your way through the cranking (starting) Circuit

The static type noise is puzzling then if I heard it in person I might know just what it is

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Not sure either by the description of static I want to say it's zzzt of an arc somewhere over a tick/click of a relay.

​​​​ and could be both depending where it arcs.

rubronthroad

Thanks Wyoming, I am just using my 87 now until I go thru the 91

rubronthroad

Thanks Co, I just remember the zzzt sound, I know what you mean by the tick/tick noise, I will be looking at the ignition switch

RAD4Runner

And where are you hearing the sound from?
Are all your connections for suspect areas clean and secure, meaning bare shiny metal contacting bare shiny metal?

rubronthroad

Thanks Rad, I will dive into it when I get the chance, I work outside and I have to wait for a day when it is overcast and that isn't often.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

well that's one you don't hear often "sorry I'm waiting for bad weather to work on my stuff"

RAD4Runner

Fast clicking of relays because of really low voltage may also sound like "zzzzttt".

LOL! Aloha!

rubronthroad

thats t's my reality , nice weather for me are cloudy days, we are on a lava flow at 1000' with no shade, so until I get a shop roof up I can only work on stuff about 10% of the time

rubronthroad

Thanks Rad, my batt is old(2008), and my alt belt is stretched, the adjustment is maxed(another subject), so yes that could be an issue.
You helped me with an electrical upgrade on my 87 a few years ago, so I know your a good resource.

rubronthroad

Still having problems with the 91 22re, most of the time runs fine, then it made a tickity noise in the area of the COR, so I thought that might be the problem, then went to start it, got a partial ignition noise, like brap! ,then nothing, tried a few more times, no noise, no lights, no start, replaced the COR , still nothing, let it sit for a half hour, then it started up, kind of concerning, I tried to start the truck without the COR and I get lights and it tries to turn over, so it seems that isn't the problem( had a problem with my COR getting wet and shorting out so replaced it, and fixed the leak that was about 4 years ago ) I am glad it runs but I would like to find the bug, Wyoming suggested looking at the ignition switch, aside from taking it out and visually inspecting and cleaning contacts are there electrical tests to do as well? The battery reads 12.5, the alt belt is a little loose, it is adjusted all the way out, the belt must be stretched, the battery is still getting charged though. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
​​​​​​​thanks

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Ok is this a failure to crank??

Sometimes the engine just does not turn over (crank) Turn to start it does nothing!!

Neutral safety safety or clutch safety switch depending what you have in the open position

Turns real slow ?? battery terminals, battery cables or ground connections

Just because the battery is charged it still needs to get the voltage where it needs to go

How many miles Starter contacts ??



It cranks just fine will not start ??

Figure out one part of the problem at a time.

I hope you have a Meter your going to need it

RAD4Runner

The C.O.R. would not cause those symptoms you described. In fact that the C.O.R. did not fix it is proof.
"No start" is a vague phrase.
You need to tell us whether the issue is "No Crank" (Starter did not turn), Or No Combustion ( No VROOM).

"Nothing", "no noise", "no lights" are indication of power issue. Are you absolutely sure that your electrical connections have secure and have shiny, bare metal contacting shiny bare metal?

How about your battery? You mentioned it's from 2008.
Quick check without taking it to the shop/store:
Everything off:
Probe battery POST for voltage. What do you get?
Probe battery TERMINAL for voltage. What do you get?
Yes, Need the two separate test points above. They can tell us something.

Turn headlights on, High Beams much better:
Probe battery POST for voltage. What do you get?
Probe battery TERMINAL for voltage. What do you get?
Yes, Need the two separate test points above. They can tell us something.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have dealt with the clicking relay numerous times and it is has always been a weak battery in my case. What is your voltage on the battery when the engine is running? You need high 13-14 volts.

RAD4Runner

If COR clicks and idle drops or sounds like it is stalling, especially at idle, I narrowed mine down to leaking intake hose.