Dune comfort
#21
i wanna take another ride out to moses before it gets too hot over there. hows the weather?
#22
yep i know of both places but havent been out to either... i usually run browns camp down in oregon. i've wanted to get to the dunes for a while now and jsut havent done it. i'm hoping to do a YT moses lake run this summer.
i have a 08 raptor 700. all stock (unless you count dings, dents, cracks and scraches "mods")


i have a 08 raptor 700. all stock (unless you count dings, dents, cracks and scraches "mods")

A YOTA TECH DUNE RUN?!?! count me in!
#23
yea bubby that lt 500 is my dads baby. nothing like a big 2 stroke. i used the 400ex shock because they are a little taller, have a faster rebound, and they are lighter than stockers. i would use the 450r shocks but but they are too heavy. that bike is on a serious diet it has no front breaks no dics none of it. and i can pound the piss out of the 400ex shocks on the whoops drag racing.
i wanna take another ride out to moses before it gets too hot over there. hows the weather?
i wanna take another ride out to moses before it gets too hot over there. hows the weather?
i'm down with a YT moses lake run sometime this summer hehe
I need to pipe my 400 before i go out there again.
Last edited by peow130; Apr 15, 2010 at 08:06 PM.
#24
i might have to make a run over there if i get some spare cash.
#26
#27
#28
Well, It would be handy if Downey didn't go out of business. I know they had the IFS long travel kit that seems like it would take the edge off of whatever the dunes could throw at you. Other than that, some larger tires might be good. Nice pics, BTW.
I always wanted to go up to the Oregon dunes, but it's quite a drive from here..... and I don't have any toys to ride, other than the Runner.
I always wanted to go up to the Oregon dunes, but it's quite a drive from here..... and I don't have any toys to ride, other than the Runner.
#29
[QUOTE=stormin94;51422430]Well, It would be handy if Downey didn't go out of business. I know they had the IFS long travel kit that seems like it would take the edge off of whatever the dunes could throw at you. Other than that, some larger tires might be good. Nice pics, BTW.
I always wanted to go up to the Oregon dunes, but it's quite a drive from here..... and I don't have any toys to ride, other than the Runner.[QUOTE]
THANKS!!! Long travel would be nice but I dont have that kinda money. I
know total chaos makes a kit also but dont have that kinda money either lol
i have decided to do bj spacers up front 63" chevy's in the back and put some decent shocks on it maybe some bilstein up front and some doetsch mv12 int the back. i just have to find the right length shocks. im going to make it a softcore prerunner lol
I always wanted to go up to the Oregon dunes, but it's quite a drive from here..... and I don't have any toys to ride, other than the Runner.[QUOTE]
THANKS!!! Long travel would be nice but I dont have that kinda money. I
know total chaos makes a kit also but dont have that kinda money either lol
i have decided to do bj spacers up front 63" chevy's in the back and put some decent shocks on it maybe some bilstein up front and some doetsch mv12 int the back. i just have to find the right length shocks. im going to make it a softcore prerunner lol
#30
I too have been playing with the idea of your so called "softcore prerunner." My goal is to one day install a TC LT kit, but until I can afford that I'm trying to dial in my stock suspension. Here's my idea for my suspension...
Front
-Torsion Bars : I run Downey 26mm torsion bars. It works for me because I run a tube bumper and a winch, but may not work for everyone. If I didn't run a winch up front maybe the V6 t-bars would be better suited (I've heard the 4 cylinder and V6 bars are different, I haven't confirmed this)
-BJ spacers : With the stock settings they gave me another 1.5" of up travel
-Bump stops : The lower a-arm has 2 compression bump stops that are identical, one just slightly higher then the other (maybe 1/8" or 1/4") to progressively slow down the A-arm. My plan is to keep the higher stock bump stop (the one that get hit last as the suspension compresses) so that the compression travel stops in the same place and replace the other bump stop with a taller, softer rubber bump stop. Something to more progressively slow down the A-arm. Like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-7024/
-shocks : then to top it all off a low priced re-valvable shock with another rubber bump stop mounted on the shock shaft. A good example of a low cost re-valvable is the F-O-A line http://f-o-a.com/index.php
Rear
-springs : 63" Chevy's
-shocks : probably a set of 12" FOAs to fit underneath the bed, with rubber bump stops mounted on the shaft
-bump stops : probably FOAs air bumps, but if not a more progressive bumps top like so http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-9-9109G/
I dunno, that's my plan. Maybe I'm going about it all wrong, I don't know. My goal is to just control the small amount of travel I do have and to eliminate harsh bottoming out. Good luck!
Front
-Torsion Bars : I run Downey 26mm torsion bars. It works for me because I run a tube bumper and a winch, but may not work for everyone. If I didn't run a winch up front maybe the V6 t-bars would be better suited (I've heard the 4 cylinder and V6 bars are different, I haven't confirmed this)
-BJ spacers : With the stock settings they gave me another 1.5" of up travel
-Bump stops : The lower a-arm has 2 compression bump stops that are identical, one just slightly higher then the other (maybe 1/8" or 1/4") to progressively slow down the A-arm. My plan is to keep the higher stock bump stop (the one that get hit last as the suspension compresses) so that the compression travel stops in the same place and replace the other bump stop with a taller, softer rubber bump stop. Something to more progressively slow down the A-arm. Like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-7024/
-shocks : then to top it all off a low priced re-valvable shock with another rubber bump stop mounted on the shock shaft. A good example of a low cost re-valvable is the F-O-A line http://f-o-a.com/index.php
Rear
-springs : 63" Chevy's
-shocks : probably a set of 12" FOAs to fit underneath the bed, with rubber bump stops mounted on the shaft
-bump stops : probably FOAs air bumps, but if not a more progressive bumps top like so http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-9-9109G/
I dunno, that's my plan. Maybe I'm going about it all wrong, I don't know. My goal is to just control the small amount of travel I do have and to eliminate harsh bottoming out. Good luck!
#31
I too have been playing with the idea of your so called "softcore prerunner." My goal is to one day install a TC LT kit, but until I can afford that I'm trying to dial in my stock suspension. Here's my idea for my suspension...
Front
-Torsion Bars : I run Downey 26mm torsion bars. It works for me because I run a tube bumper and a winch, but may not work for everyone. If I didn't run a winch up front maybe the V6 t-bars would be better suited (I've heard the 4 cylinder and V6 bars are different, I haven't confirmed this)
-BJ spacers : With the stock settings they gave me another 1.5" of up travel
-Bump stops : The lower a-arm has 2 compression bump stops that are identical, one just slightly higher then the other (maybe 1/8" or 1/4") to progressively slow down the A-arm. My plan is to keep the higher stock bump stop (the one that get hit last as the suspension compresses) so that the compression travel stops in the same place and replace the other bump stop with a taller, softer rubber bump stop. Something to more progressively slow down the A-arm. Like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-7024/
-shocks : then to top it all off a low priced re-valvable shock with another rubber bump stop mounted on the shock shaft. A good example of a low cost re-valvable is the F-O-A line http://f-o-a.com/index.php
Rear
-springs : 63" Chevy's
-shocks : probably a set of 12" FOAs to fit underneath the bed, with rubber bump stops mounted on the shaft
-bump stops : probably FOAs air bumps, but if not a more progressive bumps top like so http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-9-9109G/
I dunno, that's my plan. Maybe I'm going about it all wrong, I don't know. My goal is to just control the small amount of travel I do have and to eliminate harsh bottoming out. Good luck!
Front
-Torsion Bars : I run Downey 26mm torsion bars. It works for me because I run a tube bumper and a winch, but may not work for everyone. If I didn't run a winch up front maybe the V6 t-bars would be better suited (I've heard the 4 cylinder and V6 bars are different, I haven't confirmed this)
-BJ spacers : With the stock settings they gave me another 1.5" of up travel
-Bump stops : The lower a-arm has 2 compression bump stops that are identical, one just slightly higher then the other (maybe 1/8" or 1/4") to progressively slow down the A-arm. My plan is to keep the higher stock bump stop (the one that get hit last as the suspension compresses) so that the compression travel stops in the same place and replace the other bump stop with a taller, softer rubber bump stop. Something to more progressively slow down the A-arm. Like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-7024/
-shocks : then to top it all off a low priced re-valvable shock with another rubber bump stop mounted on the shock shaft. A good example of a low cost re-valvable is the F-O-A line http://f-o-a.com/index.php
Rear
-springs : 63" Chevy's
-shocks : probably a set of 12" FOAs to fit underneath the bed, with rubber bump stops mounted on the shaft
-bump stops : probably FOAs air bumps, but if not a more progressive bumps top like so http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-9-9109G/
I dunno, that's my plan. Maybe I'm going about it all wrong, I don't know. My goal is to just control the small amount of travel I do have and to eliminate harsh bottoming out. Good luck!
And one mode kinda newbie question i always wonder if you could put coilovers on the front of out rigs and like remove the t-bar or something? lol
#32
Thanks! Man you got some great ideas going! it even gave me a few more. i like the bump stop idea form summit racing. And this is the first time i have heard of FOA. I was wondering what diameter shock would you run? Emulsion or reservoir? and what psi? Since they have heim top and bottom how would we mount them on our rigs because mine has a shank on top not a eyelet?
And one mode kinda newbie question i always wonder if you could put coilovers on the front of out rigs and like remove the t-bar or something? lol
And one mode kinda newbie question i always wonder if you could put coilovers on the front of out rigs and like remove the t-bar or something? lol
About adding coilovers, I've looked it up on yotatech in the past and the general consensus was that the lower A-arm is too weak for a coilover. It wasn't designed for one. Maybe if you plated it. I doubt you can stuff a coilover between the upper a-arm, but maybe you can put it behind the A-arm like the Blazeland kit ( http://www.blazeland.us/Page_5.php ).
Last edited by strykersd; Apr 16, 2010 at 06:17 PM.
#33
I haven't done the research on which FOA model yet, I've been focused on adding a turbo to my car lately. Probably a 2" diameter shock to fit between the upper A arm. To mount the shock I was thinking either a custom shock hoop or possibly a F-150 shock mount that some of the SAS guys use.
About adding coilovers, I've looked it up on yotatech in the past and the general consensus was that the lower A-arm is too weak for a coilover. It wasn't designed for one. Maybe if you plated it. I doubt you can stuff a coilover between the upper a-arm, but maybe you can put it behind the A-arm like the Blazeland kit ( http://www.blazeland.us/Page_5.php ).
About adding coilovers, I've looked it up on yotatech in the past and the general consensus was that the lower A-arm is too weak for a coilover. It wasn't designed for one. Maybe if you plated it. I doubt you can stuff a coilover between the upper a-arm, but maybe you can put it behind the A-arm like the Blazeland kit ( http://www.blazeland.us/Page_5.php ).
#36
i know thats not what you mean those pics gave me some ideas for a shock hoop...
#38
I have never understood why there would be any difference in ride or travel if the arms are the same length between coilover and torsion bar?
Is it possible to make a progressive rate torsion bar? If not that could be one difference however I don't know that i've seen progressive rate coil springs for toyota pickups?
Any how, put my summer rubber on yesterday and ran the beach for the first time this spring today, sand between your tires feels so good!
Is it possible to make a progressive rate torsion bar? If not that could be one difference however I don't know that i've seen progressive rate coil springs for toyota pickups?
Any how, put my summer rubber on yesterday and ran the beach for the first time this spring today, sand between your tires feels so good!
#39
I have never understood why there would be any difference in ride or travel if the arms are the same length between coilover and torsion bar?
Is it possible to make a progressive rate torsion bar? If not that could be one difference however I don't know that i've seen progressive rate coil springs for toyota pickups?
Any how, put my summer rubber on yesterday and ran the beach for the first time this spring today, sand between your tires feels so good!
Is it possible to make a progressive rate torsion bar? If not that could be one difference however I don't know that i've seen progressive rate coil springs for toyota pickups?
Any how, put my summer rubber on yesterday and ran the beach for the first time this spring today, sand between your tires feels so good!



