I just read the manual for the fluid types and can't find them at the store (WalMart .

It says SAE 90 API GL5 for the rear. What can I sub for that?

I have ADD (I think I just shift into 4wd whenever)
It says SAE 75W-90 API GL-5 or Toyota "gear oil super" for the front. What can I sub for that?

I found 80W-90 and something else like 80W-114

Also the transfer case says to use Dexron -II (I have a auto)

What can I sub for that?

How much is needed of each?

I'm looking to do this as cheap as I can. Dealership wants $129.00 to change all three. I think that is way to much. Also is there a write up on the change. Is it pretty straight forward drain out the drain hole then fill up via the fill hole? No special tools.

Thanks guys! I'm a newbe to trucks. It took me 7 hours to do the rear suspension lol. I still have to do the front with ball joint spacers

 

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html

this should help out, if you are still not 100% certain take your vin to the dealer and have them check it out for you. btw, this is an fsm for 93 trucks but most of it will apply to your 4runner.

lee

 

The Toyota Gear Oil and transmission fluids are high quality stuff. Also, if you get it done there you don't have any doubts that you are getting the right fluids, period, and that it is done right, period (or it should be done right if they are a half assed decent dealership). Considering your transmission/transfer case/differentials will be immersed in these fluids for the next 30,000+ miles, looking at the big picture you can spend $130 to get it done right, or you can cheap out and get that will put extra heat on these components.

At the very least go and buy the Toyota fluids and do it yourself.

If you're going to be spending xx dollars to do it, whats an extra bit of $$$ to get the proper stock fluids?

I'd say go synthetic but you obviously don't want to foot the cash.

 

My truck needs about 9 quarts of fluids to do the transmission, differentials and transfer case. Synthetic is about $9-10 a quart (that is what redline cost me), so if you do a synthetic change yourself you are looking at $100 plus your tme. But, you can probably run them twice as long as non-synthetic so the price difference is not much. Your manual says the capacities. Just pay attention to the GL5 or GL4. If one is called for do not use the other. For 90W you can use 80W-90, just get the right GL-#.

 

Yeah if you shop around you could find high quality synthetics like Amsoil or Redline gear oils/tranny fluids for $8-ish or so a quart but you're going to need to do a flush of the automatic transmission to gain the extended drain intervals of these fluids and see any significant shifting difference which means you need the proper equipment to do it and I doubt the individual in question has that. But the differentials, front and rear, which usually require GL-5 (at least that's what spec'd in my owners manual) are a cake walk and should just be a drain and fill- just make sure you do it properly. I'd just run 75w90 in both the front and rear - it's still a 90 weight at operating temps and you don't have to worry about buying some 75w90 for the front and 80w90 or 90 weight for the rear.

If you plan on keeping the rig for a long time - at least another 50,000 miles, the investment in high quality synthetic fluids is worth it. But again you'll need to flush the transmission to gain the extended drain intervals that some recommend (check with the specific synthetic manufacturer - I know Amsoil promotes extended drain intervals on most of their fluids) for their fluids.