another reason to buy that parts truck, thanks

 

Thats a terrible price.
I feel so sorry for you - I'll give you $700 just to be a nice guy







quick math on what the usable parts are worth... Ka Ching!


What color is the parts 4Runner?
(maybe we can split it)

 

The one I'm looking at is 1986 and white. Daughter's is 1987 Dark Gray with the black rear top.

 

700 is a pretty outstanding price for a running truck. Congrats.

Where do you live? Sometimes there are other YT members around with experience who can help you out. I got hooked up with a few people around here that way, and it was huge.

 

we live in south central PA
More on the radiator leak...

Jim again, I drove it to pick up mother in law this morning and when I parked it it steamed. I see the main radiator is leaking at the top front seam. I am really glad you told me NOT to try the radiator fix additives. My Question now is ..Is the radiator in front of the water radiator for the air conditioner? There was a little dirty water in that front radiator's catch pan that I wiped out. I am hoping that the main water radiator sprayed forward and ran down and that I do not have two leaks. Am I right about the front radiator being for the air conditioning system?
Jim

 

(sent PM)...

For later searchers...

Yes - the rad in front of the rad is for the AC.

In front of that is a metal "tube" with a loop - AFAIK thats the PS "cooler".

Top seam "leak" is common after 100K (I blow mine about that often)

 

Since you have a manny tranny then yeah the little front one would be the condensor for the a/c.
go ahead and use the used rad just flush it good first and flush the rest of the cooling system on amy's runner at the same time while you're at it...
as for the "test drive" of the parts runner if it is a four wheel drive model you can just put the transfer case in neutral and the shift your way up and down through all the gears if there are any noise or shifting issues they should show up even though there is no 'load' on the transmission. also this way you won't have to worry about breaking down on the side of the road...
cheers aviator

if you want to try the above method just start of in first like normal and rev the engine to around 2000 rpm or so [where ever you normally like to shift] and go to 2nd and proceed up in the same way... coming down just clutch pop revs up a bit [like double clutching] and move down a gear...

 

Thanks to all for the advice, I did buy a new radiator from NAPA, I have a great guy that finds the best price for me. I got the 3 chamber heavy duty for 160. An interesting thing is that at one of the "chain auto stores" I got a 130. price but it was for a single chamber very cheap radiator. When I asked how much a triple chamber was form tham it was about 350. The NAPA one fit right in perfectly, Amy helped me and we bled all th eair out and it works great. I still need to stop the rear differential leak which is definalely coming only from the pinion seal area.
Jim and Amy

 

There's a special "puller" to snatch the pinion bearing out (so the crush sleeve can be replaced).
Sometimes its really stuck on there.

There's a tool (but a homemade one can be fabbed) to hold the pinon flange while the pinion nut is being tightened.

There's a special seal puller, but a cotter pin puller can be made to work.

I pulled the pinion flage w/o repalicing the crush sleeve a BUNCH of times to stop a leak. It became an annual affair. I was still able to limp the diff along for another 100K bewfore it blew up

complete stock "open" 3rd members are around for "cheap" here on the list.

I dunno - $100 or so? maybe alot less...

Id go that route...

 

x2. It's a relatively straight forward swap. I did mine about 3 months ago ago it took about 2 hours for my first time.

Troy

 

I doubt its "too much oil" - tho its possible.

I suspect its either a blown seal or a loose pinion flange or ... BOTH..

In either case, the repair requires the crush sleeve to be replaced (unless you are very lucky and have a solid spacer in there).

Some of us idiots have the SSTs...

If I were in your shoes I'd swap the 3rd member.... cheaper and faster.
Get some new axle seals (O rings) and you'll have to bleed the brakes...

 

Good to hear amy's runner will soon be running around lol
just as a thought if one of your local HSs has an auto shop class you (or your daughter) could probably get the class to do the third member swap thing or the seal replacement thing...
the teacher would make sure nothing got done wrong...
aviator