connecting rod rebuild cap-tastrophy.
#1
connecting rod rebuild cap-tastrophy.
I'll get started with some background
83 22r engine, machined by Tod @ engnbldr, same source for full rebuild kit. .020 over bore, crank ground .010 under. bearings are stamped and are the right ones.
engine is in a bag on a stand in my garage... this is my 1st time rebuilding, i have the fsm and this site and I use them both often.
i have crank in, mains torqued #80, plastigauged @ 0.0015 on the nose, every single one.
pistons in, no surprises.
rod bearings in, here is where it gets interesting.
plastigauged(1).0007ish... tight, (2) .002, (3).0015, (4).0015
when i tighten # 3 i can not even remotely budge anything when attempting to turn the engine by way of breaker bar on crank bolt,(assembly lube used liberally & motor oil in bores) even with cap number 3 torqued to only 20 lb/ft with all other rod caps finger tight. any one or all three others tightened down, engine turns, only 3 gives me grief.
upon seeing the inconstancy in 1 and 2, i swapped the rod cap bearings, not the caps, just the cap insterts. -no change.
-somehow, beyond all my anal organizing and forethought, i suspect i have swapped 2 rod caps
my question is, how the heck do i confirm a cap and rod mated pair? i could just start swapping caps until it works, but i wont sleep at night until i know i have the correct configuration, i refuse to put this all together and spin a rod bearing on break in,
-i made note of the 1's and 2's forged into caps upon dis-assembly, front to back it was 1212 now i have 1122 but i didnt mark the rods and caps as pairs.
any good words of advice?
83 22r engine, machined by Tod @ engnbldr, same source for full rebuild kit. .020 over bore, crank ground .010 under. bearings are stamped and are the right ones.
engine is in a bag on a stand in my garage... this is my 1st time rebuilding, i have the fsm and this site and I use them both often.
i have crank in, mains torqued #80, plastigauged @ 0.0015 on the nose, every single one.
pistons in, no surprises.
rod bearings in, here is where it gets interesting.
plastigauged(1).0007ish... tight, (2) .002, (3).0015, (4).0015
when i tighten # 3 i can not even remotely budge anything when attempting to turn the engine by way of breaker bar on crank bolt,(assembly lube used liberally & motor oil in bores) even with cap number 3 torqued to only 20 lb/ft with all other rod caps finger tight. any one or all three others tightened down, engine turns, only 3 gives me grief.
upon seeing the inconstancy in 1 and 2, i swapped the rod cap bearings, not the caps, just the cap insterts. -no change.
-somehow, beyond all my anal organizing and forethought, i suspect i have swapped 2 rod caps
my question is, how the heck do i confirm a cap and rod mated pair? i could just start swapping caps until it works, but i wont sleep at night until i know i have the correct configuration, i refuse to put this all together and spin a rod bearing on break in,
-i made note of the 1's and 2's forged into caps upon dis-assembly, front to back it was 1212 now i have 1122 but i didnt mark the rods and caps as pairs.
any good words of advice?
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