retrobeast

Hey
So I have the timing chain TDC and tied with plastic straps.
Am I supposed to be able to lift the head off and have the timing chain sprocket at top slip thru it.
Or do I remove the larger cam sprocket.
My guides are still good and I want to keep them that way.
Everything is disconnected and head is ready to lift off other than the timing chain confusion.
Thanks

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Yes the sprocket stay in the chain and tests on the guides, and hopefully doesn't get bumped and slip off the crank end.

The trick is to let it rotate to YOUR left and have the tensioner side be the only part that moves, and then you do the reverse during assembly.

retrobeast

timing cam and guides all good after head removal. head gasket touch points all clean and smooth. Time to put head back on and see if I can get him back together.

Melrose 4r

wait a minute, you'll want to confirm the head is not warped and have a shop mill it if it is warped. Whatever gets taken off the head also needs to be taken off the timing cover to match.

old87yota

It is the block surface that needs to match the timing cover, since it is the difference in height between the block and the timing cover that causes problems. The head should be flat all the way across as it is one piece.


x2
It is a good idea to make sure the head isn't warped before you reinstall.

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

Wait a minute Did I miss something? Aren't you the one who couldn't get the bolt out?

retrobeast

no warp age but worse problem. Had an issue with a head bolt when removing head. The good old 1st from last bolt on exhaust side was frozen do did some not too hard taps with a round chisel to loosen it.
I noticed the threads on that bolt were messed up gone just before the end but threads in block looked ok. Put on new gasket and head but the new bolt would not tighten well. I put in one of old bolts and it torqued to about 25 ft lbs but then gets no tighter..

Melrose 4r

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

You HAVE TO chase the threads in the block and then blow then out. Your bolt problem seems to have left some treads in the head. You need to go back and remove the head if already on and clean the bolt holes out!

retrobeast

To tell you the truth I have not chased threads unless you count putting in one of the old bolts into each block bolt hole once head was off, but the reason I did not is because the new bolt goes all the way in, it just wont tighten up. I really dont want to have to do a helicoil but that may be the only way.
Seems only other option would be to get a metric threaded rod and see if there are some good threads deeper. Then just put a nut on top torqued to specs. All other bolts torque fine.

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

LCE offers a stud kit to take the place of the bolts, not sure if you can just buy one and if they are any longer then the stock bolt
Here
https://www.lceperformance.com/Pro-H...-p/1024069.htm
Otherwise your only other option is to helicoil the bad hole.

retrobeast

Thanks for that! It is the same idea I was looking to do but with just the one head bolt.
There is a company near me here in Houston that opens Monday and I will see if they can help. If not I go will contact the site you gave or just go for helicoil.