yikes.hope mine go better than that. i am going to bleed them this weekend. i will let ya know how it goes

 

they can be a might nare! good luck and keep the shiny side up.

 

they're pretty easy, I would do the whole system, pointless to just do a section. brake fluid is relatively cheap and the whole system doesn't really take very much fluid anyway. LSVP should be done last...

have a good assistant or buy a bleeder vac, don't forget to top off between each wheel. whole system can be bled in about 20 minutes or less.

also, FWIW, brake fluid should be changed out at least every two years, every year better yet. It does accumulate moisture and neglect will eventually lead to ABS failure among other problems. It's simple, cheap preventive maintainence.

speaking of maintainence, I really need to do my pwr steering fluid, jeez... it's OLD!

 

ya ive been bleedin whole system all the way around , gone thru 2 gallons of fluid just one of those silly gremlins hanging on real tight in there. it all started when the truck sat for about 6 or 7 months before i got it (needed timing chain ). got it, fixed it,ran it, almost a year and the brakes felt mushy and decided to bleed them out to change the fluid. oboy theyve never be rite since. now im no super tech but ive been around this stuff all my life and this ones got me by short hairs !!!

 

dang, what a PITA... been lucky with all mine so far including the clutches also... I did the clutch in my 4runner, the PO obviously never did it, the resovoir was coated with crap and the fluid was BLACK, no bueno. waiting for the clutch to explode...

my sequoia has two different sized bleeder screws also, freakin' stupid. front and rears are 10/8mm for whatever reason...

 

really? that doesnt make sense now you gotta run around the truck and remember what wrench is for what end. they just dont want make it easy on us do they. all i want is decent brakes. i cant take on anything tough or challenging until i get them to work rite, the last thing i need is to come down off a rock pile the hard way because my brakes didnt hold. for now ive just been using it for relaxing trail rides.

 

They seem horrible until you've done it (successfully) a couple of times. If the system went dry, it's 'bench bleed', of course. With tubes running back into the reservoir - you HAVE to have those!!!

Then get MC back in, and start at the rear....RR, LR, RF, LF, LSPV.
Round and round.
If you've done this over and over, with no luck, I'd REALLY suspect a bad wheel cylinder, MC, a leak somewhere or something...
The biggest mistake I used to make was not bleeding each fitting enough, and not keeping the MC pretty full during the process.
Now, I have someone do 4 pumps...hold...open bleeder 1/4 turn, and let it RIP! Until the pedal is soft again. Do again. You should have GOOD fluid flow at each bleeder (pressure). Close before letting that pedal back up....
Then next fitting.

Last time I did it, 2 wks. ago, it took < 10 minutes. IF your parts are ok (MC etc), you should get it within 20 minutes, I would guess.

Don't change the LSPV if you don't have to! It's not necessarily the problem! My experience was not spending enough time on each fitting, in the right order.

 

i hear ya, no leaks ,rear cyl seam to be testing good (moving in and out under pedel pressure) front calipers moving ,etc.etc. like i siad 2 gallons of fliud have passed thru the entire system. im thinking its the mc. ive heard that if theyre pushed in to far u can damage the seals.?. gonna try and pull mc apart and check it out. funny thing is ive blead brakes out before been working on cars and trucks all my life and have nevver run into this with out it being and obviuos problem that is easy to find.

 

How you checking that the wheel cylinders are moving in and out? You do have the drum on, right???? And calipers are on the disks?? Sorry if you know that already, had to ask...overextending them will destroy them.

How about the 'brake booster', which I know nothing about but assume has something to do with vacuum?? I'm of the impression that if you are pushing fluid, no leaks, no air in the lines, cyls etc are good, then the MC is ok. If the seals in it were bad, wouldn't you see fluid coming around where it attaches to the booster?

There are a couple of 'dummy tests' for this....press & hold brake pedal...start engine....pedal should drop a little, meaning MC is good.

There are some others - we need Wabbit or someone to come see this to give you a place to start!! Sorry this is being so nasty, man....but is IS a process of elimination. You'll find the trouble...