How do you service drum brakes? Stop laughing-I'm not kidding! I've had vehicles with drums in the past but they all had discs in the front and those were the only ones I've ever messed with. Shoes, springs, wheel cylinders, etc...it's all greek to me. Can someone point me in the direction of a good site that shows how to do them step by step? I'm guessing they haven't been done on my pickup in a loooooooooong time and I want to do them at the same time I do the front brake upgrade.

 

Heard of a factory service manual? There are links to them all over this site...and there's one below.

 

That's not as bad as the "what does the "710" cap do?"

Google is your friend:

"how to change drum brakes, toyota"

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/rearbrakes/

And YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dy5W8R3aiVs

 

Oh that's easy-I just fill that to the top with oil It smokes a little though...

 

Rear drum brakes will make you say bad words and kick your dog.

:wabbit2:

 

I think that's why I always avoided touching them.

 

They're not that bad...just leave one side assembled for reference.

 

It's a good thing we didn't have our dog yet when I first did my rears!

Totally agree, a thankless job....leave one side assembled for reference, take lots of photos, and invest in a brake tool kit (unless you hate your fingers).

Good luck!

 

Sounds easier to install discs! Not enough $$$ though-guess I'll have to brake the big bad drums...

 

I just got into all this about 2 months ago, Badfish...what's the trouble?

Believe it or not, in those 2 months, I have now become an expert on how to adjust the suckers with the little star wheel, how to bleed 'em, what causes them to act like *&^%.

I bet with a little study, reading the FSM and posts, looking at YouTube vids, you will rapidly become proficient with the drums! Follow all the great advice on here, and you'll get it

 

All I can say is you people must have bad luck.

Or else I just have super good luck . Then again I am using all new parts

New adjusters make it so easy as well as having the proper tool to take the anchor pins off pop the springs off and the correct tool to adjust them back up.

If your not using the right tools I can see how it could cause a slight amount of cussing.

Hardest part is getting the old drum off if the adjuster is seized A drum puller works wonders.

I guess doing these things off and on for 35 years you pick up some short cuts.

 

Brake spring pliers are your friend.

 

All I had was two brake spring tools, factory service manual, zero experience with drums, and fear of drums, it worked out well with patience

 

Yeah as mentioned, they can seem intimidating..... but they aren't bad at all. Get a couple brake spoons, pair of needle nose pliers, new pads, have the drums turned, hardware kit, new cylinders and it is cake.

Also as previously mentioned the FSM and do one side at a time so you have something to referance.

 

Sweet pliers!

You also want to be careful with the drum pulling....some guys use the 8mmx1.25 bolts-in-the-holes trick. Good way to crack your drums if they are on really tight! Ask me how I know....

I secured the vehicle (chocks), jacked it, jack stands (ok, I used blocks, but you get it....). Make it VERY sturdy so it doesn't crush you - shake it back & forth to be sure it's sturdy.....tire comes off, then you have to lean in from the top, find the access port, take out the rubber plug. I reach in there with a piece of round, thick steel wire I got off a political lawn sign and bent a right angle 2" long into (for a handle) and push back the pawl arm. Then you use a small flat-blade screwdriver to turn the 'star wheel' in the correct direction.
You figure out the correct direction by trying to turn it BEFORE you push the inner pawl out of the way...if it clicks and ratchets, you are sending the shoes OUT and tightening them....you need to go the other way to bring them in (to 'loosen' them) to get the drum off. I think, from the top, you go 'down' to loosen them.

After about 2 minutes of jimmying the thing 'backwards' to loosen, you'll be able to get the drum off with a rubber mallet or something. Be careful, they WILL crack if you get on them with a sledge or crowbar.

Take your time - look in the access hole for a couple of minutes with a light - you will see the pawl, but it's sort of 'down' and to the left (on the driver's side anyway), like a tab. It WILL take a noob 1/2 hour to figure this out, like it took me; afterwards, you'll jump right on it, not even having to look, and be in and out of there in 5 minutes, LOL!

Read that manual, Haynes book too, etc. Questions are good, and pics are even better!!

 

I always thought the drum brakes would be hard till I did mine.

Easy peasy. No animal cruelty, no special tools. Guess I'm special.

 

where are you bad fish. if your in colorado ill do em for ya for 75 bucks

 

^ That sounds like a good deal. I'd take it.

 

For the $75.00 you supply all the new parts also darn that is a good deal.

Funny thing there is no one in this area that turns drums or rotors any more.

It just costs so much and takes to much time it is cheaper to put new ones on

 

If they're not out of round (much) you can hit them with emery cloth to take the glaze off, and away you go....or get some out of a junkyard and have them turned. A FEW place still do that - you might have to look, tho, depending on where you are...