Another "Click" when starting question
Sep 4, 2012 | 03:17 PM
#1
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From: East Tennessee
Another "Click" when starting question
1990 22re I've had this truck 2 years, and it has periodically "clicked" when turning the key. I have read numerous threads about this, and have fixed all that I know how to fix, and it still clicks.
So far this is what I've replaced with-in the last year/few months;
Had my factory starter rebuilt, including the brass connectors. Still clicked afterwards, bought a new starter from advance no fix.
Replaced all the battery cables and battery no fix.
Sometimes if i turn the key and hold it, it will click.... and after a few seconds will start normal. The tach usually bounces up to 2500rpm will turning the key as well. When I replaced the rebuilt starter, it was clicking all the time...it wouldn't start at all.
If I can roll it enough to get the motor to turn over, usually it will start. Which leads me to believe it may be a bad spot on the flywheel. Does this sound about right?
I appreciate the help, I don't know what i'm doing and i'm not afraid to do it. lol
So far this is what I've replaced with-in the last year/few months;
Had my factory starter rebuilt, including the brass connectors. Still clicked afterwards, bought a new starter from advance no fix.
Replaced all the battery cables and battery no fix.
Sometimes if i turn the key and hold it, it will click.... and after a few seconds will start normal. The tach usually bounces up to 2500rpm will turning the key as well. When I replaced the rebuilt starter, it was clicking all the time...it wouldn't start at all.
If I can roll it enough to get the motor to turn over, usually it will start. Which leads me to believe it may be a bad spot on the flywheel. Does this sound about right?
I appreciate the help, I don't know what i'm doing and i'm not afraid to do it. lol
Sep 4, 2012 | 11:35 PM
#4
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 237
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From: NorCal
switch likes to crap out intermittently..4crawler has a good write up about it. I did what he did and bought a painless wiring hot shot relay kit and has started up nice and strong now instead of a weak or delayed start.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions
Sep 5, 2012 | 12:32 AM
#5
I copied this from RAD4runners thread. I cleaned the starter relay and it made a huge difference.
I have intermittent no-start (crank) problem. Starter solenoid works and supplies power to starter motor when control (coil) terminal is directly connected to battery +.
I have verified that control power is getting to starter relay using method in earlier post (here).
With starter relay energizing, but starter solenoid not energizing, I suspect badly pitted /corroded starter relay contacts AND/OR ignition switch ST1 contacts causing high resistances and hence, excessive voltage drops.
To eliminate resistance of ignition switch ST1 contacts, I moved terminal 4 of starter relay directly to fused side of 40A fuse (see schematic here)
I was left with potentially bad starter relay contacts. I took starter relay part. Pic below shows starter relay with contacts open.
It is difficult to tell condition of contacts without a microscope and I could not find my 2000 grit lapping film, so I just ran 400 grit sandpaper a couple of times between contacts and blew clean with air spray can. That should remove any pitting/corrosion.
I'll monitor and see if I still have any starting issue.
How does the relay work?
One side of contact is connected to +12Volt (ideally directly from fused line directly off the battery and NOT through ignition switch as in schematic). Other side of contact is connected to control (coil) terminal of starter solenoid here.
One side of relay coil is connected to ground through clutch safety switch (when clutch is pushed down) or clutch safety cancel switch (if activated).
Other side of coil gets +12Volts from start contacts (ST1) of ignition switch.
Coil creates electromagnetic force and pulls armature toward it, closing contacts and causing current to flow to starter solenoid (piggybacked on starter motor). Here's a video of starter relay energizing (housing removed).
[YOUTUBE]http://youtu.be/RGeE3hSMiOk[/YOUTUBE]
I have verified that control power is getting to starter relay using method in earlier post (here).
With starter relay energizing, but starter solenoid not energizing, I suspect badly pitted /corroded starter relay contacts AND/OR ignition switch ST1 contacts causing high resistances and hence, excessive voltage drops.
To eliminate resistance of ignition switch ST1 contacts, I moved terminal 4 of starter relay directly to fused side of 40A fuse (see schematic here)
I was left with potentially bad starter relay contacts. I took starter relay part. Pic below shows starter relay with contacts open.
It is difficult to tell condition of contacts without a microscope and I could not find my 2000 grit lapping film, so I just ran 400 grit sandpaper a couple of times between contacts and blew clean with air spray can. That should remove any pitting/corrosion.
I'll monitor and see if I still have any starting issue.
How does the relay work?
One side of contact is connected to +12Volt (ideally directly from fused line directly off the battery and NOT through ignition switch as in schematic). Other side of contact is connected to control (coil) terminal of starter solenoid here.
One side of relay coil is connected to ground through clutch safety switch (when clutch is pushed down) or clutch safety cancel switch (if activated).
Other side of coil gets +12Volts from start contacts (ST1) of ignition switch.
Coil creates electromagnetic force and pulls armature toward it, closing contacts and causing current to flow to starter solenoid (piggybacked on starter motor). Here's a video of starter relay energizing (housing removed).
[YOUTUBE]http://youtu.be/RGeE3hSMiOk[/YOUTUBE]
Sep 5, 2012 | 11:26 AM
#6
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: East Tennessee
I hadn't seen that article, i guess my researching wasn't as thorough as I thought. lol
I hadn't seen it mentioned before about the Tach moving, and sometimes holding the key and it will start. I'm slowly narrowing it down, I will try the starter re-lay fix and might even put a key switch in. My problem is when I start reading about terminals and volts my eyes glaze over and I start drooling....
I hadn't seen it mentioned before about the Tach moving, and sometimes holding the key and it will start. I'm slowly narrowing it down, I will try the starter re-lay fix and might even put a key switch in. My problem is when I start reading about terminals and volts my eyes glaze over and I start drooling....
Sep 6, 2012 | 06:02 AM
#7
Just another thought, and it may not help but could solve other issues. Check all of your ground wires.
LINK....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-guide-194413/
LINK....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-guide-194413/
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Sep 8, 2012 | 11:14 PM
#8
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 68
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From: East Tennessee
I think that I found all of them, and replaced them. The most irritating thing about this problem is you don't know if you've fixed it untill it does it again.
I was hoping the Tach bouncing, and sometimes holding the key would make it start would narrow the problem down. I'm aware it may be a combination of things as well. Bad key switch/ starter relay going out etc.
Is there a way to rule out a bad spot on the flywheel? With out taking out the flywheel and inspecting it..... I will be pulling the engine in the near future for a rebuild or reman, I can always wait untill then to replace the fly wheel if thats the problem.
I was hoping the Tach bouncing, and sometimes holding the key would make it start would narrow the problem down. I'm aware it may be a combination of things as well. Bad key switch/ starter relay going out etc.
Is there a way to rule out a bad spot on the flywheel? With out taking out the flywheel and inspecting it..... I will be pulling the engine in the near future for a rebuild or reman, I can always wait untill then to replace the fly wheel if thats the problem.
Sep 9, 2012 | 12:24 AM
#9
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 237
Likes: 0
From: NorCal
I think that I found all of them, and replaced them. The most irritating thing about this problem is you don't know if you've fixed it untill it does it again.
I was hoping the Tach bouncing, and sometimes holding the key would make it start would narrow the problem down. I'm aware it may be a combination of things as well. Bad key switch/ starter relay going out etc.
Is there a way to rule out a bad spot on the flywheel? With out taking out the flywheel and inspecting it..... I will be pulling the engine in the near future for a rebuild or reman, I can always wait untill then to replace the fly wheel if thats the problem.
I was hoping the Tach bouncing, and sometimes holding the key would make it start would narrow the problem down. I'm aware it may be a combination of things as well. Bad key switch/ starter relay going out etc.
Is there a way to rule out a bad spot on the flywheel? With out taking out the flywheel and inspecting it..... I will be pulling the engine in the near future for a rebuild or reman, I can always wait untill then to replace the fly wheel if thats the problem.
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