Can I use an ADD diff. and remove the axle and ADD stuff and replace it with a non-Add tube and axle?

 

Sure can....I did this on mine recently....

Just unbolt the ADD axle shaft....and then you'll have to remove this short little axle.....



You'll then need to get a new seal....the Part No. is SEAL35-63-10/16.5 233W which I just got from my local bearing shop.



This pic shows the seal on a NON ADD DIFF




This is the ADD DIFF which has a roller bearing and no seal....leave the bearing there, but install the new axle seal. Bolt it all back up and your done!!


Hope that helps.

 

Yep thats what I needed to know! Thanks alot!

 

No worries mate

 

What is ADD? ( I am new at this Toyota stuff) I just bought a 91 4runner.

Jack

 

Automatic Disconnecting Differential

 

automatic differential disconnect, just means your cv shafts are permanently attached to the wheels and turn all the time. if you swap in a set of manual locking hubs, you can 'unlock' the wheels from the cv shafts so they dont turn constantly. this saves wear and tear on them.

lee

 

I have a set of hubs from a salvage yard spotted. Is that all I need to do is take off the ADD hubs and bolt the manuals on or do I need to get the tubes also?

Jack

 

thats it. unless you want to completely eliminate the add system. this will remove the ability of shift on the fly into and out of 4x hi. install the manual locking hubs and wheel it for now. you can decide later if removing the entire add system is going to benefit your wheeling style.

just my .02.

lee

 

leebee is 100% correct. just to clarify though, by going with manual hubs, you have in a way lost shift on the fly. once you get out and lock the hubs, then yes, shift on the fly is there, but if the hubs are free, you will have to stop, get out, lock the hubs, then go into 4hi. not a biggie, just thought i would clarify that. also, there is a write-up in the write-up section on how to rebuild and install the aisin manual hubs.

 

I just lock the hubs when the weather starts turning foul, then I or the wife can still shift on the fly. It's OK to leave the hubs locked - it just acts like an ADD plate then.

 

thanks mr47, i forgot to mention that! i need more sleep.

lee

 

And with manual hubs, you have a 2LOW option! (Transfer case in 4LOW, but hubs unlocked)

 

thats true as well. one more thing, if you go with manual hubs, if you forget to lock them and then try to go into 4hi while moving, you will hear some nice grinding noises. if you are going fast, damage could result.

 

huh? how ya figure?

 

Just a Curious ? How did this get moved to the Newbie Section?

 

I alas have had to do this when we were trying to figure out tranny issues (it may have been a solenoid it never reproduced) My hubs were unlocked and I never had grinding, and I was at high rpms. (Had to start in low low, and move it through the geers untill finially riding at 2 high at 70mph) So I ask the same as TC... how would grinding occur?

 

unless i am misunderstanding how the system works? with the hubs free, the driver, passenger, and front driveshaft will not spin at all, is this correct? lets say your doing fifty, if what i just said is correct, when you try to shift to 4hi, all the said components will have to match the shaft speed of the transfer, instentaniously. 0 to whatever rpms equal 50mph in a second usual equals breakage. also, i had read threads on this site where someone was having a grinding issue while trying to go into 4hi while driving slow, and it ended up being his hubs were free. so the breakage bit was logical reasoning based on that and how i have understood(untill this point) the drive line works. but again, if none of the front driveline is rotating, and you engage 4hi at lets say 50mph, would that not cause the drive shafts to instenasiouly have to acheive the rpm required for 50mph since they are not being spun by the front wheels? if im wrong, cool, i just could have swore i remember someone saying they had grinding noises trying to go into 4hi whith the hubs unlocked, but i have slept since then.

 

I'm pretty sure you're right motoracer.

 

OK, I see what you're saying, but since there are no synchros in the transfer case, you'll just get gear grinding like a missed shift - not total catastrophic failure of the entire front drivetrain!

Had never really thought if it - I've always done like Cebby said, leave the hubs locked if you think you might need 4WD.