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90 4runner very weak Help

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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 07:19 AM
  #21  
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The loose wire is in the bundle of wire that feeds the fuel injectors on the drivers side and it goes back towards the temp senser but everything in the area is hooked up and can't find and coupler that is missing a wire.
its shielded with a cover so its a single wire, i pulled it back and its blue with a red rings around it.
Looked in the wiring diagram and i hate wires and it looks like it's a temp sensor wire for a 22RE engine not a 3.0 but not sure.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 07:23 AM
  #22  
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From: Earlysville, Va
You said your OD light is flashing? Is that normal? I don't know much about the 3.0/auto setup, but I can't help but wonder if that's a normal thing to have happen.

Is it possible that there's an issue with your transmission and the flashing OD light is your warning and that might be causing your problem? Maybe a bad sensor in the transmission. I'm still learning about these older Toyota's, but I know on newer cars the CEL comes on if there's a problem with the transmission....I wonder if it's something similar.
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 09:48 AM
  #23  
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OK i ran into a toyota machanic at the corner store the other day and ask him a few things he told me to bring it up and he would run the codes for me and this is what he got.
12 RPM signal
41 TPS
42 no speed signal to ECU
52 knock sensor
my question is the knock sensor has been changed buy previous owner i guess that code is still in the system is that right.
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 11:03 AM
  #24  
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From: The Dirty South
Disconnect the battery for a few minutes, clear the codes, and find out...
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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 06:33 PM
  #25  
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I just pulled the knock sensor out and check the pig tail and like i said before not much on wiring. i just don't understand why i have a EDI plug with 2 wires and at the other end at the knock sensor i only have a 1 wire plug. and are their anyway to check a knock sensor with a meter.
Thanks again.
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Old Aug 18, 2012 | 06:53 PM
  #26  
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Looks like i have a timing issue. Removed the knock sensor and checking wiring, i was putting it back together and figured i would check the timing belt and put the crankshaft at TDC and this is what i found.

How can it run so far off.?
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Old Aug 18, 2012 | 06:56 PM
  #27  
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Pictures did not load will try later.
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 12:06 AM
  #28  
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From: pensacola FL
3.4 swap, all fixed
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 01:44 PM
  #29  
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Ya just need a 3.4.
I hope a new timing belt kit will fix most of the problems.
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 07:54 PM
  #30  
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From: CA, Until TSHTF!
Originally Posted by rc14
Ya just need a 3.4.
I hope a new timing belt kit will fix most of the problems.
Was curious as to what TB kit your getting?
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Old Aug 21, 2012 | 04:26 AM
  #31  
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I would like to go with OEM but will more then likely get it from advanced auto or napa. This is on a 17 year olds (my Sons) budget, why you ask ksti.
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Old Aug 21, 2012 | 07:50 AM
  #32  
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From: CA, Until TSHTF!
There is alot of sites for TB kits. I bought some of my stuff online aisin WP, koyo tensioner bearing and upper idler bearing. I got the rest from dealer Timing belt, t-stat, cam seals, drive belts, tensioner spring (I think your year has spring and not hydraulic tensioner?.) IMHO these motors work better and longer with most OEM replacement parts. Try not to cut any corners. While the the front of the motor is apart replace all wearable parts. You might have to spend a few more bucks. You will be better off in the long run.

Take a look on ebay for Mizumo Auto pretty good prices. They have a kit aisin WP, koyo bearings, also includes valve cover gaskets and half moons. I'm sure there is other choice's others might go with, but just wanted to give you some insight. Good luck

Last edited by ksti; Aug 21, 2012 at 07:57 AM.
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Old Aug 21, 2012 | 09:13 AM
  #33  
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Yes Sir i do thank you for that. The son wants it running and has limited funds and as soon as he gets out of school next year he will be going into the Army so i have a feeling he will be getting something else after basic or shortly after that. I do see your point and i do try to go OEM heck i still use mopar oil filters and parts for my dodge and think that is whey the Hemi has 255,000 miles on it.
Also thinking if this don't get her running good we will be buying more parts so just wanting to save him some money.
I will check out the mizumo auto parts and thanks for all your input.
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 06:49 AM
  #34  
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OK i have installed new timing belt, water pump, tensener and spring and upper pulley. got it back together and had to pull distributer and move one tooth fired it up and timed it she runs and sounds alot better. Then i drive it down the road Wow she feels better and then same thing engine light comes on goes in limp mode. ran codes and got a 24, 51 and that d### 52 again.

I pulled the knock sensor and pig tail and the pig tail was fine by my meter. the knock sensor looked brand new and the PO told me they installed one. checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner and all seams fine no rpm rise at all.
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