3VZE horsepower advice
03-24-2011, 10:44 AM
#25
Registered User
I've owned both engines, 22re and 3.slo.
22re has a timing chain that is a PITA to change, and to top that it's an interference engine. These are not correctable issues(steel guides do not make this a 300k engine between chain changes, so don't bother arguing that). I personnally like the simplicity of the 22re over the 3vz, but the timing chain is intimidating to the regular DIYer(I've done several).
3VZ-E has a bad exhaust design and possible headgasket issues. These two ARE correctable.
Every engine has it's issues, Pick your poison.
to The OP:
Fix the exhaust issue first, bypass the collector that burns up the #6 exhaust valve, headers will fix this issue, or search for 3vze Crossover eliminator mod, or Chief Pipe Mod(i think).
If you want more then a few extra horses, look into an engine swap, neither the 22re or the 3.0 yeild strong hp numbers from mods.(period)
Search is your friend, use it and be amazed at the mods you will find.
22re has a timing chain that is a PITA to change, and to top that it's an interference engine. These are not correctable issues(steel guides do not make this a 300k engine between chain changes, so don't bother arguing that). I personnally like the simplicity of the 22re over the 3vz, but the timing chain is intimidating to the regular DIYer(I've done several).
3VZ-E has a bad exhaust design and possible headgasket issues. These two ARE correctable.
Every engine has it's issues, Pick your poison.
to The OP:
Fix the exhaust issue first, bypass the collector that burns up the #6 exhaust valve, headers will fix this issue, or search for 3vze Crossover eliminator mod, or Chief Pipe Mod(i think).
If you want more then a few extra horses, look into an engine swap, neither the 22re or the 3.0 yeild strong hp numbers from mods.(period)
Search is your friend, use it and be amazed at the mods you will find.
The following users liked this post:
rojogrande (12-10-2022)
03-24-2011, 12:07 PM
#27
Registered User
Thanks! Same truck, same day even, just a different angle. Those pics are about a year old. New ones to come soon I hope, the trucks so close to running again.
This was my fix for the cross over pipe. Dont have the skill or the time to make my own headers yet, and cant afford pre made ones.
Photo541.jpg?t=1298337429
This was my fix for the cross over pipe. Dont have the skill or the time to make my own headers yet, and cant afford pre made ones.
Photo541.jpg?t=1298337429
Last edited by rattlewagon; 03-24-2011 at 12:24 PM.
03-24-2011, 12:29 PM
#29
Registered User
Header wrap? I dont think thats gonna do any good. the Crossover is already covered by a heat absorbant canister. Sure it gets hot, but its not gonna change anything. it gets hot in that cubby where the Crossover sits, this will probably just make it hotter.
If you haven't put the motor back in yet, and are low on funds. I have an idea that you might like:
Pull that ugly crossover off. Go around to your driver side manifold, and cut out a piece of plate that is the exact shape of the manifold connector for the cross over. install the plate, Locktite the studs and the bolts on. You'll never be removing this. You pretty much just made "shorty headers" for your 3.0, but they're still cast iron... So basically from here, you go to an exhaust shop ( or do it yourself ) and install exhaust piping all the way up to both sides of your manifolds, forming a longtube header, and then bend your crossover anyway you would want it. Im pretty sure its self explainitory from here on out... but this should ( or damn close to it ) have the same "gains" and sound as a 600 dollar header would. Its definitely not smog legal, so if you have emmissions, dont even attempt this.
If you haven't put the motor back in yet, and are low on funds. I have an idea that you might like:
Pull that ugly crossover off. Go around to your driver side manifold, and cut out a piece of plate that is the exact shape of the manifold connector for the cross over. install the plate, Locktite the studs and the bolts on. You'll never be removing this. You pretty much just made "shorty headers" for your 3.0, but they're still cast iron... So basically from here, you go to an exhaust shop ( or do it yourself ) and install exhaust piping all the way up to both sides of your manifolds, forming a longtube header, and then bend your crossover anyway you would want it. Im pretty sure its self explainitory from here on out... but this should ( or damn close to it ) have the same "gains" and sound as a 600 dollar header would. Its definitely not smog legal, so if you have emmissions, dont even attempt this.
03-24-2011, 12:52 PM
#30
Header wrap? I dont think thats gonna do any good. the Crossover is already covered by a heat absorbant canister. Sure it gets hot, but its not gonna change anything. it gets hot in that cubby where the Crossover sits, this will probably just make it hotter.
If you haven't put the motor back in yet, and are low on funds. I have an idea that you might like:
Pull that ugly crossover off. Go around to your driver side manifold, and cut out a piece of plate that is the exact shape of the manifold connector for the cross over. install the plate, Locktite the studs and the bolts on. You'll never be removing this. You pretty much just made "shorty headers" for your 3.0, but they're still cast iron... So basically from here, you go to an exhaust shop ( or do it yourself ) and install exhaust piping all the way up to both sides of your manifolds, forming a longtube header, and then bend your crossover anyway you would want it. Im pretty sure its self explainitory from here on out... but this should ( or damn close to it ) have the same "gains" and sound as a 600 dollar header would. Its definitely not smog legal, so if you have emmissions, dont even attempt this.
If you haven't put the motor back in yet, and are low on funds. I have an idea that you might like:
Pull that ugly crossover off. Go around to your driver side manifold, and cut out a piece of plate that is the exact shape of the manifold connector for the cross over. install the plate, Locktite the studs and the bolts on. You'll never be removing this. You pretty much just made "shorty headers" for your 3.0, but they're still cast iron... So basically from here, you go to an exhaust shop ( or do it yourself ) and install exhaust piping all the way up to both sides of your manifolds, forming a longtube header, and then bend your crossover anyway you would want it. Im pretty sure its self explainitory from here on out... but this should ( or damn close to it ) have the same "gains" and sound as a 600 dollar header would. Its definitely not smog legal, so if you have emmissions, dont even attempt this.
03-24-2011, 02:19 PM
#31
Registered User
Mak's right, that header wrap is going to make the inside of the exhaust hotter, and accelerating the #6 issue. If you didn't have the crossover issue with number 6 the wrap would be a good idea.
I've seen a crossover mod that will follow the same route as you currently have, but then make your own collector just below the driver side down pipe. I think DOA does it on their 3.4s. Use a block off plate like Mak said, and it should remain smog compliant.
edit....Like this
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...r-pipe-138902/
I've seen a crossover mod that will follow the same route as you currently have, but then make your own collector just below the driver side down pipe. I think DOA does it on their 3.4s. Use a block off plate like Mak said, and it should remain smog compliant.
edit....Like this
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...r-pipe-138902/
Last edited by RBX; 03-24-2011 at 02:30 PM. Reason: correction
03-24-2011, 02:26 PM
#32
Registered User
Mak's right, that header wrap is going to make the inside of the exhaust hotter, and accelerating the #6 issue. If you didn't have the crossover issue with number 6 the wrap would be a good idea.
I've seen a crossover mod that will follow the same route as you currently have, but then make your own collector just below the driver side down pipe. I think DOA does it on their 3.4s. Use a block off plate like Mak said, and it should remain smog compliant.
I've seen a crossover mod that will follow the same route as you currently have, but then make your own collector just below the driver side down pipe. I think DOA does it on their 3.4s. Use a block off plate like Mak said, and it should remain smog compliant.
03-24-2011, 02:42 PM
#33
Registered User
Mak92, Yes I do think the heatwrap will work, atleast more than no heat wrap. Ive never had any issues with the #6 cylinder, so Im not really too worried about it, it was more of a "while it was out thing." Its more to deal with the HG poping, rather than for the valve. Besides, I just adjusted my valves, #6 is dead on in the center of the spec.
I considered making my own headers, but shop time is hard enough to come by anyway, so I went with what was easy. K.I.S.S.
I considered making my own headers, but shop time is hard enough to come by anyway, so I went with what was easy. K.I.S.S.
Last edited by rattlewagon; 03-24-2011 at 03:06 PM.
03-24-2011, 02:53 PM
#34
Registered User
I've had no problem with the 3.0 3vze v6. Sure it may not go past 90 mph and it may take a bit to get there but try and get that damn truck stuck lol. Gas mileage isn't terrible and you can easily get to 300k miles if you take care of it.
03-24-2011, 03:30 PM
#35
Registered User
The 3.0 is the worst engine ever made. All they do is blow headgaskets.
They claim 150hp but its more like 115hp tops. They're complete junk
and no one should ever own one. If you just ought one, you screwed up.
Chances are, it'll take a crap on you within a years time unless you change
oil every 1200 miles, and even then its iffy. Sorry about your luck.
There have been half a dozen threads asking this same question this week.
Search.......
PS the answer is "Not a whole lot you can do."
They claim 150hp but its more like 115hp tops. They're complete junk
and no one should ever own one. If you just ought one, you screwed up.
Chances are, it'll take a crap on you within a years time unless you change
oil every 1200 miles, and even then its iffy. Sorry about your luck.
There have been half a dozen threads asking this same question this week.
Search.......
PS the answer is "Not a whole lot you can do."
the 150hp claim is from factory ~20(+/-) years ago, you cant expect an engine to retain full hp over that many years.
changing your oil every 1200 miles is a bit ridiculous unless you have the cash, and isnt necessary as the oil made these days is commonly rated for 5k miles
anyway, if your looking for more reliability and possible hp gain(depending on engine condition), look into the HG recall from toyota (had mine done in auburn CA, they did an excellent job) general maintenance tasks are also likely to net you small hp gains here and there, depending on when they were last done
03-24-2011, 03:38 PM
#36
Registered User
If that header wrap doesn't get wet, I think it should work out ok. But IMO, I do not like header wrap as it accelerates corrosion. ON a street car that never sees wet roads it's fine, but in an offroad rig where your going though mud holes, water crossings etc, it's a bad idea.
03-24-2011, 04:23 PM
#37
Registered User
^^^ or its a stainless steel exhaust.
The purpose of the wrap is to keep heat in (inside the pipe), if you never had issues with number six before, why mess with the formula?...just sayin'.
Mak, i didn't realize the refs were that bad out there, that's really ridiculous...if it runs clean...
The purpose of the wrap is to keep heat in (inside the pipe), if you never had issues with number six before, why mess with the formula?...just sayin'.
Mak, i didn't realize the refs were that bad out there, that's really ridiculous...if it runs clean...
03-24-2011, 04:39 PM
#39
Registered User
Sounded like a good idea. And if it getting wet does ruin it, ill just cut it off. And if the HG goes again, Ill just swap it out....again. Im getting pretty good at it at this point. haha.
Last edited by rattlewagon; 03-24-2011 at 04:41 PM.
03-24-2011, 05:27 PM
#40
Registered User
^^^ or its a stainless steel exhaust.
The purpose of the wrap is to keep heat in (inside the pipe), if you never had issues with number six before, why mess with the formula?...just sayin'.
Mak, i didn't realize the refs were that bad out there, that's really ridiculous...if it runs clean...
The purpose of the wrap is to keep heat in (inside the pipe), if you never had issues with number six before, why mess with the formula?...just sayin'.
Mak, i didn't realize the refs were that bad out there, that's really ridiculous...if it runs clean...
