Rod knock.

Who ever rebuilt the engine was a dunce.

Sorry for your troubles but its looking like you going to have to measure the crank journals, bearings, and connecting rods to see what has been done.

Too much clearance is forgiving.... too llittle is not... and a pretty thick oil would prob make most of the noise go away. But the bearing and or journal needs to be measured and or fixed to its proper clearances. Can;t remember rod bearing clearance off the top of my head...

FSM ftw.

 

those are pretty much your only options unless they make like a .040mm bearing or something a lil smaller?

hmm, if your measurements were right that should have worked one would think.

you just swapped out that one bearing right?

 

Wow that sucks man. Sorry to hear that.....looks like shes coming apart then huh? Any warranty from builder?

 

timing chains worn

 

Did you even read the thread?

 

^^ lol

 

Have you asked mechanic/machinist if you could take the tight bearing put it in another rod and have it bored/honed to within tolerance so it will work on the rod in your motor?

 

bearings don't work that way. it's the inside diameter of the bearing that is too small. not the rod end size. when they cut a rod down they shave off the rod and end cap then hone it out to fit the bearing. this is called cutting down a rod.

 

what was the plastigauge reading with the .50 size bearing??

 

Man I feel stupid, but I knew somehow there was a way to machine the rod so the brearing would fall into tolerance. Is this a good option or should he do a crank and rod replacement. In my opinion if the rod has to come out then he might as well do a complete short block rebuild. Did somebody say something about maybe the wrist pin could be worn also?

 

i went ahead and pulled the engine, put in a new crank and bearings, everything else looked still like new, i just replaced the crank and new front and rear oil seal. The knock is gone and the truck runs great, just having to get the idle fine tuned, i set the idle with a tach when @ operating temperature but when i start the truck after it cools down, the idle is way too high and im going back and forth trying to get it down, the timing is spot on, so maybe i need to adjust the TPS now.

 

you mean undersize bearing, undersize is thicker beacuse the cank is machined down say.010 so you need an undersize bearing.010 its sounds confusing but the crank is smaller where the bearing goes hence the term undersize but it also means thicker. oversize bearings would be for a bigger crank

 

^ copy. i found that out shortly after post 16, thanks for the correction though

 

this thread has opened up my eyes it sounds like the exact same happened to me!! and I thought that the chain tensioner runs of pump press!!!! ?? but ya thought it was like the ones on the timing belts know I know !! so thats why the pump spring shim helped a little going to do a timing chain with metal guides and a turbo pump!!

 

but going to check rods when I take off the oil pan!!

 

I know this is an old thread, but I figured I'd try here first. Here's a video of my rebuilt (under 1000 miles) 22r. It's an 83. It just started, or got louder a day ago. I've pulled all the plugs while running and doesn't change the noise. I can feel the knocking with a wrench on the top left (passenger) V.C. bolt. All new bearings, ground crank, timing kit, etc. Valves adjusted to .08/.012 hot for the 4th time, V.C. nuts just past finger tight. Any help greatly appreciated! I'm supposed to leave on a cross country trip in a few days....
https://youtu.be/91IfkcXU9d0