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***JOB DONE***
Some tips if you're going to do this one via removing the truck bed.
I ended up getting my correct sender 83320-80179 via the below site, they will check your VIN and ensure you get the right one:
https://parts.suburbantoyotaoffarmingtonhills.com
Recommend unplugging your sender before moving the bed to avoid damaging the plug or wires, and waiting to plug in the new one until your bed is reinstalled. I pre-soaked all of the nuts (8 in total, don't forget the two at the very rear!) as well as the three screws for the tank hose with PB blaster.
If you're trying to avoid removing the bed completely so you won't have to deal with disconnecting any wires for the taillights, you can lift up the right side of the bed and prop it up to get your work done. It's quite heavy so I recommend some help. Brush away the area surrounding the sender before undoing it to avoid getting debris in the hole. The screws for the sender are an incredibly small phillips head, and if they were anything like mine, I wish you luck with a screwdriver. I also soaked these in PB and had to get them off with a small pair of vice grips. Besides putting it all back together, that's job done.
***UPDATE***
Found a troubleshooting guide in another post that detailed how to test the gauge (disconnect plug from sender and attach a pigtail/test light/paperclip between the two terminals on the clip side of the plug, turn key to turn cluster on and you should see the gauge move to full if its working properly) This did work on mine and the gauge slowly moved to the full position so has me leaning towards the sender/float being the culprit here.
This leads to my follow on question, has anyone had to order a new fuel sender? If I'm going to pull the bed I'm considering just replacing the pump while I'm at it. I believe the correct p/n for fuel sender for my truck is 83320-80177, I've seen it on yotashop and Amazon for slightly cheaper. Have not seen this part on rock auto or any other auto parts stores so ordering it online elsewhere has me a little wary.
Hello yotatech folks!
Fuel gauge hasn't worked since I got the truck years ago. Refill every couple hundred miles but would love to get this thing fixed.
Checked all fuses in bay as well as kick panel. Removed plug from sender unit on tank (accessed under passenger rear wheel well) and all wires there were intact. Is there any easy way to test if this is a gauge issue or the sender itself? I've seen people talk about attaching one of the gauge wires to ground and this should make the gauge max out if its working? How do you go about doing that? Trying to avoid dropping the tank or removing the bed if I don't have to. Or buying a new sender/float. Anything to check for failure or troubleshooting tips are appreciated!
Thanks,
-Wes
Last edited by thehazeonator; Oct 19, 2023 at 08:15 PM.
Reason: Job done, tips for you all
Just dropped the tank on one and saw the two plugs.... (Not my vehicle) Was only expecting one for pump & gauge. So your video has saved me from pulling the wrong unit! That is much appreciated. Wires look OK....but needle is only slightly rising from"E" even though the tank is 50% full. Thanks again.
Just dropped the tank on one and saw the two plugs.... (Not my vehicle) Was only expecting one for pump & gauge. So your video has saved me from pulling the wrong unit! That is much appreciated. Wires look OK....but needle is only slightly rising from"E" even though the tank is 50% full. Thanks again.
Happy Sunday,
I'm glad this helped! Maybe let me know which sender you end up going with if that's the issue you're dealing with? I'm holding off til next paycheck, and I'm sure they're all gonna be the same if ordered via Amazon or yotashop. It appears both come with a new gasket:
Sep 7, 2023 | 11:53 AM
