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1986 clutch plate replacement

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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 09:43 AM
  #1  
maverick_4x4's Avatar
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1986 clutch plate replacement

I have an '86 puck up with a 22r and I am pretty sure it needs the clutch plate replaced but i have never done that before. I am pretty confident about working on it but I would appreciate some guidance. Does anyone know of a good thread or build up that talks about clutch replacements so I can get an idea of what I am getting myself into. Any info would be appreciated.
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 09:51 AM
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dropzone's Avatar
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From: PNW
Chock wheels
jack up truck place jackstands
remove drive shafts
remove shift boots and shifters
undo slave cylinder
jack up transmission and t/c
Unhook reverse switch/4wd indicator etc
Remove flex plate
Undo the upper/lower trans to engine b8lts

resurface your flywheel. Order a complete clutch kit...don't just replace the friction plate
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 10:53 AM
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Cool seems pretty straight forward as I figured it was. I guess the thing I was mostly worried about is: Is there any thing I need to worry about adjusting or setting? or can i just throw the new clutch kit on and bolt it together? also i was going to just go with a basic stock replacement clutch kit but if there is a better / upgraded kit I should buy which is it.
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 11:56 AM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

If your in the South part of the country and your truck has never seen rust it won`t be to bad

No mention of removing the sway bar some don`t I always do.

No mention of removing the cross member perhaps a new way of doing this!!!

Time for a new Transfer case mount mount while it is apart

By yourself and even with help the transfer case and transmission when it comes out of the splines will twist to the right .

I use a piece of 1" X1" x1/8" square tube with a ratchet strap across the opening in the floor going front to back to keep from killing myself.

Then if you break them apart you can`t get the transfer case in with the rear seal in the transmission when the transmission is up in place.

The longest 1/2" extensions you can get to get the two top bell housing bolts out and in the more extensions the more torque is lost.

I don`t no why you need to put the truck on Jack Stands unless it is lifted and you need to lower it. to be able to reach it

It can be interesting to remove the back bolts in the front drive shaft we all learn our own tricks

Don`t forget to mark the drive shafts don`t lose the bolts there special.

Compare old parts with new so many boxed wrong or picked wrong

We all have our favorite clutches plenty of threads .

For me it is easier to just put a new flywheel on I have yet to find a decent machine shop the last one moved south to the land of snakes and big spiders .

I no doubt forgot something.

Last edited by wyoming9; Nov 9, 2013 at 11:58 AM. Reason: typos
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 10:00 AM
  #5  
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Thanks for the pointers. Good idea about the transfer case mount. That is one of those things it is good to know before getting elbows deep and then having to ride your little brothers go-ped to the parts store because you just realized it would probably be good to do something extra while you are already in there. (actually did that once hahaha). This is why I brought it up. Thanks.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 10:49 AM
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From: Boulder, CO
Mines gonna have to get done also. Grrrr. I've only done it on a civic so hopefully it won't be that much harder. Just more crap to take off.
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