I just ordered my revtek lift kit from wheeler's offroad. Will be here Thursday. Will install it the following weekend after this coming weekend. I will be keeping the group up-to-date.

Lance, might need your help on this

 

Good stuff!!! Enjoy.

My Daystar kit is in the garage waiting to be installed. Need to get some gardening done this coming weekend first :pat: So we will probably do it the same weekend.

Measure to your front and back fenders before and after the lift. We also need to measure after a couple of weeks of driving. It will interesting to compare and with other ppl doing the lifts. What the true gain is front and rear, and also how much settling occurs after the initial lift.

 

Right,

I am tempted to go 4" up front like fourrunnabilly. I know there are alot of concerns for the CV boots, but it seems like he does not have any problems with the CV (yet). I want to squeeze a larger tire. Plus I think the 4" lift will settle to about 3.5", which will be safer.

What tire size are you going to run? I'm planning to try and squeeze 33x12.5x17 on stock rims. If that don't work out I might try an aftermarket one. If that don't work I will settle for 285x70x17 or 285x75x16.

But first, gotta get the lift installed and then drop by the tire shop and play around with some different sizes.

 

I'm going to go for 265/70/17 Revos. Just a little bigger than stock. WIth the few extra inches from the lift, it should give me enough clearance to at least do moderate trails without constantly scraping the bottom over every bump.

It will still do 90-95% paved duty, so I dont want to mess too much with the stock setup.

Using it to explore, more than hardcore wheeling.

 

Timber-

Hey, no problems with mine at all in the front. I will guarantee you that I am darn near maxed out with my setup, but I have not torn a single boot, and the CV angles are less than 10 degrees. I have taken it through just about everything in woods and mud, and everything has held up fine. I am currently running 315's on a 17 (35") and am upgrading to 325's on a 22 (35+). I have had to do some trimming of the inner fender, flare, and front bumper, but clear just fine now. The largest obstacle was the stock control arms rubbing on the tire. Lance and I are running Inland Truck's Uniball a-arms...you might want to look into that. I also grounded off the little triangle shaped part facing the tire on each spindle to prevent any puncturing there.

To get my ride height in the front, you just need to take your 3/8" silver revtek spacer to a machine shop and have them build you a new one 3/4" thick. This will give you about another inch at the wheel. I am running the black main revtek spacer in conjuction with the 3/4" thick custom one. Stock alignment and camber have been maintained, so everything seems to be successful.

Billy

 

Right,

I am still contemplating your offer to have one made for me. Just kind of concerned, but I might say the hell with it and go for it... If CV tears, I can always repair the CV and throw the original 3/8" revtek top spacer back on it.

As for the inland arm, I need to save a little more before I can go to that. It's quite a few pennies. I need to see if I really need it. I don't think I will be running 35s like you, so it won't be as much of a problem. (Although, I am tempted. There is an eBay dealer that sells them for less than $500 for all four.)

 

Yeah, look for H2 take offs...i got mine with the stickers still on them with wheels for $550 and then sold the wheels on ebay for $500...tires ended up costing me $50...lol...let me know if you need a couple spacers fabbed and I'll send em your way asap.

Billy

 

I just added the Revtek to my '04 LTD with the X-REAS shocks. I also shaved off 1/2" on the rear spacers. The way the Revtek kit comes, makes the rear much higher than the front.

I added 18x9 with 285/60/18 Nitto's. Attempted 325/60/18s, but no way in .... with an 18x9 rim. With the 285's I still had to use the heat gun extensively, but boy does it look good

 

usdansker -- the Revtek kit made your rear higher than the front? I just installed mine and it leveled it perfectly ... mine was 3" in front and 2.5" in rear. I love it.

when you were installing yours, what did you do with the bolt, the washer, and the two silver extenders for the brake line mount?? I ended up not using those pieces, and wondered if you used yours at all?

I was surprised in actuality at how much easier it was to work around the xreas lines than most people had made it sound early on.

 

DAMN You got a killa deal? Point me in that direction.

 

4route

Why you guys needed the pitman arm puller? Is it necessary for the non-XREAS suspension (like mine)? I ask the guy at wheeler's offroad, and he told me to give the sway bar a good whack (in the right place) and it comes off. Unless I misunderstood the use of the puller.

Thanks

 

usdanker

Where's the pics of your ride??? Can't tease and not show it....

 

timber725 --

I used the pitman arm puller because the pickle fork punctured the outer tie rod end boot ... and made me want to kill myself. I know if was necessary for me to separate that balljoint because I needed all the extra room I could get to manuever the shock around until it would come out and I could put it on its side while I worked on it ... and it also made it a great deal easier to lower the upper a-arm in order to get the strut out.

As far as whether it would be necessary to do that on a non-XREAS truck, I'd say it's purely up to you. It is possible to do the install without disconnecting it, but it does make it a great deal easier when you are trying to pull the strut/coil out from the shock housing area. I tried beating on it with a hammer, and it didn't work, and also I don't think it's a great idea to hit it with a hammer very much at all ... the pitman arm puller worked easily within about 2 seconds, and did so without damaging anything.

Hope that helps Overall - no, it isn't necessary, but it does make things easier both for those with XREAS and those without.

 

I am a little (or very) confused. What is the pitman arm puller used to remove?

Can I borrow this tool from AutoZone? Or can I buy it from AutoZone?

 

timber --

I don't blame you, I was pretty confused too ... but I used the pitman arm puller to separate the outer tie rod end. They basically look the same ... but here is the tie rod end puller:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...2Crod%2Cpuller

and here is a pitman arm puller:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...ProductID=2456

either would work ... and they just help to separate the outer tie rod end ...

 

DOnt use pickle forks to seperate!! 4route can explain why

 

bulldog, get your laughing smiley back in your seat!

but yeah - Keisur brought it to my attention that pickle forks would likely damage things ... so as I started working, I had both a pickle fork and a pitman arm puller (or tie rod puller) (i bought mine from PepBoys -- it was pretty cheap, and i'm sure autozone would probably have one as well) ... anyway. I first tried the pickle fork because I thought it looked more simple - sure enough it tore the rubber boot immediately and didn't even succeed in separating things. Then I tried the pitman arm puller thing and it worked like a charm. It did throw me across the garage when the bolt popped out, but, other than that it was smooth and simple as pie to use the puller.

 

Timber:

If you don't have xreas, you can remove the shock w/o taking either ball joints off I took mine off w/o doing any of that crazy stuff. If you have xreas then you'll be forced to because of the limited space you can move the shock.

Hope that helps

 

true, Lance knows better than i do, but i know that in either case, separating that outer tie rod end helps to make moving the upper a-arm much easier when you're trying to get the strut in and out. not necessary at all, but helps a little.

 

Good Times,

What backspacing do you have on your rim? How'd you like the MT/R. I am considering getting them.