Hello T4R owners,

I just got a 2006 SE. 100 miles so far!! Loving the car. (other than the slight lean to the left issue that is still under observation. I am waiting for gas tank to run to half and empty level to take measurements. Also contacted dealership. They want me to go in but I think I will wait a bit before decicing if I should have them touch anything.)

For those Gen 4 owners, is it easy to change oil on your own? I live in a condo and shares common parking garage. I need to be able to do a quick and clean oil change. I am thinking about getting the Fumoto drain plug. Is it a real PIA to remove the oil filter. Is it possible to reach/remove it from the top? (I have not check where the oil filter is located yet.)

Anyone seen posting of photo or instruction on how to remove the oil filter ?

Thanks

 

P.S. It's a V6

 

Hi, welcome to YotaTech and congrats on your new SE.

You couldn't ask for an easier engine to change oil on. The filter sits up top, upside down with a catch funnel to allow oil to run into a cup after removing a plug. Here's a link to the FJ Cruiser .pdf with the same engine. There's a section on how to do an oil filter change.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f135/new-fj-cruiser-tech-manual-pdf-80936/

The oil pan drain can be messy though, so have lots of newspaper spread under your catch pan in case of splash. I suppose the Fumoto would make it a neater job if it clears the skid plate.

I'd suggest using an OEM filter while under warranty. They're excellent quality. The very first filter change can be tricky. Sometime the filter O-ring gasket is left behind on the mating surface, unnoticed, and the new filter installed forming a double gasket situation = smoke + fire + carnage.

The 1GR V-6 in your truck is an alloy block. It helps to run dino oil for the first 3K miles or so to allow the low tension rings to fully seat before switching to synthetic. If you change oil during that time (I do at 1K), run dino again to 3K-5K before the synthetic.

About the lean: Check tire pressures first. Often dealers don't bleed the tires down from 50 psi shipping pressure, or do one side only, or some combination. Any pressure gauge works, just make sure to use the same gauge on all the tires for consistency.

Good luck, easy on the brakes for the first 200 miles, and off you go for 300,000 miles.

 

BT17R,

Thank you very much for your comments. Yes, I've checked the tire pressure. All the same. (Damn dealer did it at 40 PSI. I lowered it to the requirement at 32 PSI right now) I am hoping the lean is due to the gas tank being full. (Didn't expect a Yota would have this type of issue) HOpefully it's no biggie and I can learn to ignore it.

A few questions:
- Base on what you had mentioned regarding the 1st oil change. It sounds like the same issue as the Honda CRV i read about sometime ago. Maybe I should take my car to dealer for the 1st 1K oil change.
- Is it OK to switch to Dino oil then Synthetic? What if I go from regular oil(upto 5 K) to synthetic (5K and on). Is this OK?
- I also read somewhere that once going synthetic, I can not go back to regular oil. Is this true?

 

You're welcome!

The lean thing doesn't sound right. I had an '03 4R w/X-REAS and it didn't lean. I don't recall anyone here mentioning it either. Measure from level pavement through the wheel centerline to the fender curl and compare side-to-side. Then ask someone else here with an '06 for their measurements or compare to another one on the dealer's lot.

You'll soon be flooded with parts and service mailers with great deals on oil changes. Even the regular price of $29 for a quick service at my dealer (6 qts. dino, OEM filter and free wiper blades this month) makes it hard to resist. My dealer covers the seat and wheel with plastic, the mat with paper, and leaves bottled water! I barely have time to change channels in the reception area. Given your condo situation, it might work out better for you to just go to the dealer. After a dealer change, I just leave it out on the street for a few hours before parking in case of any residual drips.

The oil I use, Mobil 1, is fully compatible with dino. You can switch from one to the other any time. There's a new blend called "Extended Life" or something. They claim 15K between changes, which I wouldn't do, but would be comfortable going 7.5K on it. In any case, you want to observe the time/mileage limits spec'd in your owner's manual.

 

Yes, I've measured the distance between wheel and fender. Left side is about 1 inche less than the right side. I have an appintment with the dealership that I purchased the car from. I am trying to decide if I should take it in or not. Somestimes the stealership will end up doing more harm than good. Wish I can get a new car instead but I doubt it. It's 120 miles now.

Forgive me for asking, does dino oil mean regular oil?

The reason I wish to do my own oil change is so I can use Mobil 1. If I get that at the dealership, they will charge a lot.

 

Yep, dino = conventional oil.

I bring my own Mobil 1 to the dealership. I buy it on sale for $4.25/qt. and the dealer gives me $15 off the price of the change for a net price of $15. Just leave the bag with the oil on the driver's seat so the tech doesn't overlook it.

About the lean, try measuring another '06 SE and compare. Does your truck wander at high speed on a level highway? If so, you get one free alignment during the "adjustment period" of 12 months/20K miles. If not, that's the verbiage to use to get a free alignment anyway.

 

I used to bring Mobil 1 to Honda dealership for my Prelude. What state do you live in? $15 with filter is heck of a deal. The Honda dealer I used to goto charged me around $20 bucks for the service w/filter. So I figure since 4Runner has higher clearance, I can do it myself this time. (Did the oil change on the Lude a few times but it got a bit too PIA trying to jack the car up and pulling out the filter.) Let me call a few dealers around here what they would charge if I bring Mobil 1

Thanks for the heads up on the adjustment period. I will defintiely use that when needed with 12 months. :-) :-) :-)

Car does not wander at highspeed on level highway. I will double check.Only put maybe 50~60 miles on highway at speed less than 65 MPH. (Is it OK to go up to 65 during the 1K under break-in period?) Going at 55 is just too slow. Makes it dangerous when trucks and all other drivers cut me off. I live in very congested area. During rush hours, it gets pretty crazy.

 

Oregon here.

I know the book says keep it slow, but my rule of thumb is to keep it below 4K rpm in any gear for the first 1K miles.

 

Oregoon is awesome. No sales TAX!!!!! Even for cars!!!! I paid a hefty (~approx 2K) tax on this car.

Regarding the RPM, I don't think I have gone over 2.5K or 3K yet. I guess I am in good shape.

Update on the leaning:. Just got back from a local dealership. (Not where I purchased my car.) No SE model. So I looked at a couple of SR5s. (It's SAt so they are busy. All sales forece are out. I keep getting people coming towards me) Viewing from the back it defintiely looks a little leaning to the left.. When I took measurement, it's about 0.5" lower on the left side. The other SR5 is fine. Very close and doesn't seem to lean when viewing from rear. I think I am going to start a new thread at another forum to see if new owners will respond.

 

No sales tax is awesome, 9% income tax and 3% property tax isn't.

Hmm, K&N huh? Please google around about comparative tests on those and other similar filters. There's a trade off for increased airflow. It's less efficient filtering possibly leading to cylinder abrasion and, if improperly oiled, a gummed up airflow sensor. I know Toyota sells a TRD version, I still don't like them. I DO change the OEM filter every 7,500 miles though. It's just my 2¢, people swear by K&N, I haven't seen enough improvement to justify the increased risks.

 

How much is the OEM filter? If the cost is minimal. I can justify to change an OEM filter every 7500 miles.

I do not have to go with K&N. I am just under the impression is a good cost effective way to improve the overall performance and quality of the car. I have one in my Honda and it seems to work great. BUt then again, this is my first Yota. And I want to get 200K+ out of this car if possible. (with Mobil 1)

 

I think the OEM air filters are around $12 on sale from vendors here. At my rate of mileage accumulation, that's only once a year at most. I change the oil and oil filter every six months regardless of mileage, though.

Not trying to brag about Yotas again, but 200K+ miles is a given, 300K+ reasonable with synthetic and Tier 1 fuel (Chevron for me) before a top end overhaul. The 1GR V-6 is the newest technology and is built to go the distance with chain driven cams, cross bolted mains, oil cooled piston crowns, forged rods, serious cooling capacity and trick cylinder liners to dissipate heat (not one overheating report), 100K mile coolant, direct valve actuation, on and on. Plus the tranny is sealed = zero maintenance.

Then there's the "Made in Japan" factor. All 4Runners are built in the Tahara flagship plant, world renowned for producing the best Lexus and Toyota vehicles. They really are just a little better fit, finish and paint quality than NA built Toyotas I think.

Once you get the lean issue resolved, and you're the first to report it here (sorry), you'll be good to go. Most 4th Gen owners pretty much agree that your SE is the best all around model 90% DD use. Good luck, although that's usually another given with Toyota ownership! \soapbox

 

As far as synthetic oils, I would wait until 10K to swap out. I run AmsOil in my 92 and 03. In the 03 I change the oil every 10K and the filter every 5K. This is about half as long as I could go. The new amsoil filters are claimed to go 12mo/25K like the oil is.

If you plan to own the rig for 100K or more I would install a by-pass filter. I am going to do this on mine. It will allow you to go a year or 25K with out an oil change, all you will have to do is change the filters once or twice.

If you are interested I am an AmsOil dealer....

 

If I go synthetic (Mobil 1), I plan to change oil and oil filter every 5K. ONce I get Fumoto valve set up, I am good to go.

 

Hey, I recently came across this on 4Runner Forum. Just FYI. What do you think?

Update on the lean:
I am going to dealership tomorrow to check on the lean. I've gotten the 1st tank of gas down to about 1/3 now. Still has the lean. about upt o 1" on rear left.

As far as the quote below, I am particularly concern about the last statement. Do not switch between DINO and synthetic. It contricts what you've mentioned. Please comment.


" Thank you for contacting Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc.
We appreciate your inquiry regarding the us of synthetic oil in your 4Runner.

All Toyota vehicles come from the factory with natural petroleum-based engine oil. Toyota is currently recommending American Petroleum Institute (API) grade SJ petroleum-based engine oil. In moderate climates, this oil should have a Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) viscosity rating of 5W-30. In our high mileage tests with preventative maintenance performed at the recommended intervals, the recommended natural petroleum-based oil has provided excellent service.

If you decide to use synthetic oil for the engine, it would be best not to switch until the first scheduled oil change. Synthetic oil should meet or exceed the above specifications. Even if synthetic oil is used, we do not recommend a longer oil change interval. Also, once synthetic oil is used, you should keep using it and not switch back and forth with natural petroleum-based oil."

 

I'll always default to Toyota's recommendation. My answer to your question was in the spirit of "if I had to switch back, could I safely?". I've never switched back once changed to synthetic. I can't think of a good reason to return to conventional though. Good luck with your lean issue, please keep us posted.

 

OH MAN. HOw is that FJ !!! HOw many miles you got on that baby!!!!!! Do you have PICs posted???

CONGRAD!!!

 

Thanks! Only 200 miles, just babying it during break-in, but so far a very impressive ride and an amazing bargain considering content and capability right out of the box. There's a separate FJ forum here plus I posted some pics in the "Check Out My Ride" forum linked below.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f137/new-owner-today-82436/

 

Most compaines, OEM, aftermarket, etc..Don't know how to respond to the synthetic question. Usually I get, "dont run it", or "thats what caused your problem"...Which is wrong. There is a reason jet engines use it.