linky

Saw this over on TTORA... even thou I am not a superwinch fan, I think that I would buy this... if it really is for 2005...

emailed superwinch to see if its accurate, cuz they dont have hubs for 05+ on their website

 

I never really understood the point of changing to manual hubs if you have ADD... and especially if you live in places where there is a lot of snow in the winter.

 

Saves a huge amount of wear and tear... ADD still works, your just not allowing the CV's to spin all the time, as they do on a normal ADD truck. In winter lock the hubs and your back to the OEM shift on the fly. In the summer unlock them and save the CV's, and a little gas too. I got about 1mpg better on my 95 on the fwy after I put hubs on it, negligble around town...

 

Are these hubs plug&play for the ADD system? Because it seems to me, the cost of changing to the manual hubs will be offset by increased milage in no less than 15 to 20 years.

Also, how much wear and tear is it exactly? Regular Toyota ADD CV joints are good for roughly 250,000 - 300,000 km (180,000 miles). I am, personally, is prepared to replace them after that. They will be good for another 180,000 miles. Shouldn't a problem if you're not on welfare. =)

 

The fuel savings isnt the main reason to do the hubs, its the increased life of the CV's.. 180K is a long time, I know some get that, but when you put a susp lift on that is drastically decreased, as the CV's operate at excessive angles.

As far as plug and play I am assuimng its a typo, as in the 95-04's its super expensive, and you have to swap a bunch of parts... if it is plug and play, the price is right...

 

Big tires + lifted suspension + front locker = broken CV's

reduce the wear and tear on the CV's by using manual hubs on the street (that way you can destroy them on the trail)

or you could SAS and be done with CV's

 

Manual hubs are only necessary with a lift if your truck has ADD.

And if your front diff is open, there is not a mileage difference between having manual hub or not - not one you can measure anyway.

 

What is that based on? It doesnt matter if you have a locker or a open diff, it still takes the SAME amount of energy to spin the CV's, which are always spinning on an ADD setup w/out hubs... I saw an increase in mine, hwy only...

 

i'ld get the differential drop before
the hubs
thats the win-win IMHOP

lots cheeper too

the problem i see is,
cv's under power ... ie. while being driven by the engine
not much wear and tear while coasting (even though they are rotating)
because no torque is being applied in excess of what the joint can
withstand, long & short term

those cv joints are pretty tough on there own, it seems to me

 

Its all coasting in 2wd... .and in 4wd the hubs would be locked, so it doesnt matter...

Diff drops have been proven to be pretty useless on the 05+ tacos...

Hubs are the best way to go, provided they are cheap... I am still waiting on a email from superwinch, but someone on TTORA said it was a no-go.. too bad...

Besides figure your hubs are unlocked for 75% of your driving, very feasible.. if they last 150K w/out hubs you would never have to replace them with hubs.. thus in the long run you save $$$