if the back spacings the around 4" - 4.75"(stock) itll tuck in the front and rear with the 33x10.5x15's, but in the front it will rub unless you crank the tbars, i still havent, and it just rubs in the front when one wheel is compressed up into the fender and then turning, it hits the back of the front fender, and the rear is fine.

 

cool thanks i have 2 1/2 in longer shackles in the rear and the t bars cranked to level it out so i bet i will be fine

 

No. If it is rubbing at all, it will rub regardless of whether you crank the tbar or not. Tbar adjustment has nothing to do with limiting compression.

Depending on the tire, you may have to hammer the pinch weld a little. This is easy, completely hidden, and takes less than 5 minutes.

 

see above

 

well my torsion bars have never been adjusted, so im sure there saggin some.

and ya i guess thats why bj spacers dont help with compression either, cranking the tbars only help if the wheels arent flexed

 

thanks i have been on this for a day now and you guys have taught me a lot. so i will get those mod and get pics up and i am excited tomorrow i get my new clutch put in

 

ok guys what brand of gear do you recomend i get? and would you suggest arb lockers of something else

 

I always recommend ARB's. Simply nothing better, IMO. But, they cost.

 

arb makes gears and lockers ? or just lockers

 

There are only really a couple gear manufacturers out there. USGear and Precision and pretty much unarguably the best.

Richmond, Motive, etc are still pretty good, but a level down from that.

NOTE: you will hear people talk about Yukon gears. Yukon DOES NOT MAKE GEARS. They are simply Richmond or Precision Gears in a Yukon box. The VAST majority are Richmond. Interestingly, the much maligned Genuine Gear sets from 4WP are ALSO Richmond gears and a bunch cheaper.

It is hard to beat the price and quality of the Genuine Gear master install kits BTW.

In the end, the install will make MUCH more difference than the quality of the gears themselves. If you can, I would end your thirdmember/diff to Zuk in Arizona and have him do them

 

Also you can have Zuk cryotreat your gears... or have someone do it. It' might be worth the extra 30 bucks for additional strength, especially if you are running 35's.

From Zuk's site: http://www.procryo.com/RemGears.html
http://www.gearinstalls.com/links.htm

 

Look, first off, I think if you would be willing to go with an All-Pro SAS kit, then you could probably afford good tires. I would like to do the SAS swap on my 87 because of simplicity, ease of modification, and ability over severly uneven terrain. Of course I would use parts and fabrication over a kit, simply because I could go buy a donor such as an older SA 4runner for less than the kit. Solid axles and the right springs can do more than just crawl over rocks, they are especially handy in ditches or gullies, and deep mud ruts. I also like the fact that when you do an SAS, you can make the needed modifications such as lift height, and supension travel. An IFS lift of any height is WAY EXPENSIVE, and will not give the same articulation. Sure, lockers are a great investment (especially crossing a ditch at a 45 degree angle). When I was a teenager and got my first Toyota, I wanted big lift and tires. I asked a guy who had 33's on his Yota who recomended me to stay with 31's because of gas mileage, drivability, etc.....I fallowed his advice and two weeks later I saw him driving around on brand new 35's. While I was stuck with 31's. Do what you want to. Learn from your mistakes, not advice from others.

 

Amen!

That get's expensive in a hurry

Carefully considering the advice of others can save you A LOT of money and trouble in the long run...

 

Sure it can, but for things like making a choice on a modification, to do it or not to do it, everyone has opinions on these matters. Now advice on HOW TO MAKE A MODIFICATION, advice can be helpful.

 

the problem is uneducated people get on an offroad website and all of the sudden they think SAS is the only way to go. then they waste their money having someone else do it and never use it to full potential. how are they more handy in ditches, gullies and mud more than ifs? show me a trail that Lysmachia can do that TC cant in his IFS rig. tc has no lift, so this "expensive" lift doesnt even exist in this situation. the clearance difference is very slight with those two rigs as well. no offense meant to the OP, i thought SAS was the only way until i wheeled with TC.

 

A SAS is neither easy nor simple. Fabbing it yourself, it takes very careful set up to avoid death wobble. Even with kits, its still a possibility, as Lysmachia has found out.

As for the rest, you are absolutely right. Do whatever you want.

I get on these threads because there is so much BS on this site and others about SAS's. If a newb gets on here, they get convinced pretty quick that IFS can't wheel, and that they need to spend big bucks on a SAS. However, a SAS means about jack until you get to really hard trails.

There are a few trails around the country that only a SAS truck with big tires can wheel without getting body damage that an IFS rig cannot. A bunch of them are in AZ, and socal. Those trails require 2 lockers, big tires, and a lot of gearing, and most of all, experience.

IFS will get you 95% of the places you want to go. A sas will take you the rest of the way, and break most of your body in the process.

 

I have been on IFS forever, and I have gone alot of hairy trails with not much problem, but I have been in alot of spots where I could've used a little more travel to drop a wheel down to grab the earth, where my IFS just sat up in the air, not helping. Hell, if I want to paint my truck pink and put lacy curtains in it (which I don't) I would only want your advise on what shade of pink to use, not if I should or not.

 

long travel

 

Cool. My point is simply that travel is irrelevant with lockers. But, like i said before, i completely support the idea that its your truck, so build it as you choose.

This is getting away from the OP pretty good. Good luck man.

 

guys chill out im just excited to get different views you know. i am on a budget so i cant just throw money at it you know i have to be sensible because it still is my only mode of transportation. Especially for how much wheelin i do ,which is not every weekend im sad to say, i really have to just take a step back and cool down to look at the whole situation you know. so i really appreciate all of the input. I think that i should max my truck out first and then decide because that sounds like the most sensible and cost efective thing to do. I will totally keep every one informed