wiring fog light HELP
10-24-2007, 03:02 PM
#21
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Not to be kill joy...
the switch is rated for 20 amps and the fuse is rated for 30 amps... you need to use a 20 amp fuse at most...
The idea of the fuse is it protects everything else. With what you have now you could get a short and the switch/lights could melt or worse catch fire [this is a bad thing lol] the 14 gauge wire is also only rated at 15 amps (at 120V so you should be ok here lol)...
You might also want to open the lights and check that they are grounded as well, some mfg. just attach a lead of the bulb to the mounting bolt with a 'fork' connector inside the case, some use a ring connector either inside or outside the case any of these could be disconnected or not making good contact or as others have stated you could have a problem with the grounding of the bar to the body.
Hope this helped a bit aviator
the switch is rated for 20 amps and the fuse is rated for 30 amps... you need to use a 20 amp fuse at most...
The idea of the fuse is it protects everything else. With what you have now you could get a short and the switch/lights could melt or worse catch fire [this is a bad thing lol] the 14 gauge wire is also only rated at 15 amps (at 120V so you should be ok here lol)...
You might also want to open the lights and check that they are grounded as well, some mfg. just attach a lead of the bulb to the mounting bolt with a 'fork' connector inside the case, some use a ring connector either inside or outside the case any of these could be disconnected or not making good contact or as others have stated you could have a problem with the grounding of the bar to the body.
Hope this helped a bit aviator
10-24-2007, 03:20 PM
#22
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Location: Richmond , Va / Henrico Co.
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Lights
Not to be kill joy...
the switch is rated for 20 amps and the fuse is rated for 30 amps... you need to use a 20 amp fuse at most...
The idea of the fuse is it protects everything else. With what you have now you could get a short and the switch/lights could melt or worse catch fire [this is a bad thing lol] the 14 gauge wire is also only rated at 15 amps (at 120V so you should be ok here lol)...
You might also want to open the lights and check that they are grounded as well, some mfg. just attach a lead of the bulb to the mounting bolt with a 'fork' connector inside the case, some use a ring connector either inside or outside the case any of these could be disconnected or not making good contact or as others have stated you could have a problem with the grounding of the bar to the body.
Hope this helped a bit aviator
the switch is rated for 20 amps and the fuse is rated for 30 amps... you need to use a 20 amp fuse at most...
The idea of the fuse is it protects everything else. With what you have now you could get a short and the switch/lights could melt or worse catch fire [this is a bad thing lol] the 14 gauge wire is also only rated at 15 amps (at 120V so you should be ok here lol)...
You might also want to open the lights and check that they are grounded as well, some mfg. just attach a lead of the bulb to the mounting bolt with a 'fork' connector inside the case, some use a ring connector either inside or outside the case any of these could be disconnected or not making good contact or as others have stated you could have a problem with the grounding of the bar to the body.
Hope this helped a bit aviator
, don't want the fuse to be rated higher than your switch or your wiring for that matter and 14ga is cutting it close , 12ga would give you 25Amps .But all that is not your problem at the moment - have you checked the bulbs with a ohmmeter ? If the bulbs got toasted you are beating a dead horse otherwise trying to get them to come on
unless you are checking voltage at different points but you can have a bad connection and still read voltage as well
i know its a little of subject, but i never knew wabfab was located in t-town, as i'm currently going to alabama. awesome!
10-24-2007, 03:34 PM
#25
It's your imagination. 
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