rworegon

The Toyota gasket set will have all the gaskets you need and it is often cheaper than buying them all separate:

http://www.toyotapartseast.com/compo...-03-11938.html

drmix

X2
Thats what I bought when I replaced mine. There are a TON of gaskets so dont panic when you first open the package like I did lol

clocklaw

A quick update. The engine builder is as stumped as I am about the failure. He told me today that if I think it is necessary, I can ship the head to him and he will replace it.

I am going to check the surface and then see about having them checked asap.

clocklaw

Anyone here have any advice on how to package heads for shipping? Also, the cheapest shipping method?

clocklaw

Just a couple of pics of the head gasket:





I don't see anything that screams "LOOK AT ME" so I am still trying to figure out what exactly caused the problem.

clocklaw

Further conversations with the builder lead to them basically saying that even though all the heat tabs are in place it probably still overheated so they will not cover it. I think it would be throwing good money after bad to try and get them to cover anything so I am just going to pony up and get this resolved myself. It will take a while but with the cooler weather maybe I can have some time to work on it soon. I want to see this old girl running again and it sure would be nice for it to be reliable. I am very disappointed in my experience with APR and with the 3.0 in general.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

3.4 swap

:wabbit2:

HighLux

Im confused....was it overheating? using coolant? misfiring?

Did you tear the motor down based on the white smoke alone?

ThatGuy1295

And whats up with this warranty BS. Sounds like they scamed their way right out of that one.

um ya it overheated becuase it blew a Head gasket and lost coolant faster then you can Bigie Smalls three times. And the heat tabs are still in place, so it must have overheated?? Come on!!

ThatGuy1295

Sorry but that gets me. Thats one of many stories ive heard about dealers not covering stuff because of overheating. What makes motor overheat, somethings wrong with it to begin with. Overheating is a side affect of needing help to begin with.

clocklaw

My deduction process was as follows:

1. Notice white smoke - smells sweet like coolant.
2. Shut engine down to prevent overheating and other bad stuff.
3. Towed home and began the inspection process.
4. Check the Radiator - Yep, coolant loss was observed.
5. Pull the Plugs - inspection of the plugs indicated that all three plugs from the passenger side were wet. Dipped a cloth in through the plug holes and pulled out coolant on the cloth.
6. Pull the 10 million little parts to get to the heads carefully watching for heat tabs and coolant leaks.
7. Checked the head bolts, all tight.
8. Pulled heads, and the pictures indicate what was found.

From the pictures I have included, you can see that all 3 cyl on the passenger side had coolant in them. The rear two showed coolant puddles and the front had the carbon cleaned from the surface.

clocklaw

Okay, I'm in this deep, what could a 3.4 swap cost compared to what I have done already.

clocklaw

What gets me is that the whole "heat tabs" thing is sketchy at best. If they didn't install them properly they would fall off regardless of if it overheated or not. Just seems to me that with ALL the heat tabs he told me to locate still intact, it should be simple at that point to proceed with replacement.

At this point I have successfully achieved 2.5 miles per dollar invested into this nightmare (not counting fuel, oil, and labor hours). I should have bought damn Jeep.

clocklaw

Read post 15 in this thread:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f208...needed-260740/

TNRabbit

The warranties on rebuilt engines are USELESS as the seller ALWAYS finds a way to get out of it. It's a win/win for them~

It LOOKS like they used RTV on the gasket when they installed it, which is a no-no.

The very nature of an ALUMINUM head with STEEL block means you're going to get movement between the mating surfaces & the head gasket needs to be made for that. I've found that torquing the head down a little further than the FSM states makes all the difference.

You can have HUGE differences in actual clamping force with the bolt torque technic (i.e., crud in the bolt threads, etc.), so the 3vze method of turning a specified number of times after initial torque is the better way to go. Better yet would be the head bolts that stay in the block & use nuts over the top.

I recommend OEM Toyota head gaskets if you re-do this. The 3.4 swap is a much better option, but it's a PITA as you have to FIND a donor vehicle with a good engine, then attend to the differences. It's not cheap, unless you can part the donor out afterward & recoup your investment. Not sure if you want to go to all that bother.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

3.4 swap basic labor is $2500
Typically $450 in motor parts like water pump, timing belt etc while motor is out
Donor vehicles can be found $500-1500

:wabbit2:

tnkatoy

hello clocklaw well after 3 recommadations in writing from Apr to use Amer arb assoc they backed out had a show in vegas, i started this arbitration on my own without notify them, there dumb founded don't know what i'm talking about. on and on well they have all documents i got the phone number for Amer arb from them I'm taking them to small claims Colorado maximum amount 7500.00 i just can't walk away they went as far as actually signing a Certified Receipt from the Post Office with a fictious name FORGERY. FRAUD you know they won't show up admition of guilt, but i'm not going away, they have obviously gotten away with screwing people over for many years, Not This Time. i'm gonna stand up to them win or lose. well all my web sites, research, and documentation on them i just don't see losing.

clocklaw

Well, after letting this albatross sit for over a year, we decided to dig into it and see what it would take to get it going. Looks like the block surface (not the heads) is out of spec between the two cylinders that failed.....so the block is toast. $%#$@#%^$#@

maachine

if you really wanted to......pull the block and get the mating surface machined. sounds like more trouble than its worth though.....but its an option

clocklaw

That is an option I have considered....I think the money would be better spent on the next project. This is the first and only vehicle that I have ever had engine problems from.....never had to go through this before and to be honest it has basically killed my Toyota "pride".