lol...yeh it would...but then ya gotta go through the whole drivetrain for that swap! I was thinking 302/331 stroked making about 380-400hp and over 400ft lbs torque. How about this one? http://proformanceunlimited.com/spec...350dropAL.html
don't like the 347's tho...too much stroke and the wrist pins are too close to the oil ring on the piston and they fail more easier.

 

soon as you start it ..lol

 

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/P...neEngines.html

Engine Type Valve/Cyl Year Disp. BHP Torque Bore Stroke CR other remarks

VZ series (V6, belt, 2.5-3.0L, 1987-): Camry, Tacoma

1VZ-FE DOHC 4 87- 1992* 138@6000 128@4600 78 69.5 9.6:1
2VZ-FE DOHC 4 87-89 2507 153@5600 155@4400 3.44 2.74 9:1
2VZ-FE DOHC 4 88-91 2507 159 159 3.44 2.74 9:1 AUS
2VZ-FE DOHC 4 90 2507 158@5800 152@4600 3.44 2.74 9:1
3VZ-E SOHC 3 90 2958 141@4600 177@3400 87.5 82 9:1
3VZ-E SOHC 3 90 2958 150@4800 180@3400 87.5 82 9:1 US version/4-Runner
3VZ-FE DOHC 4 93 2958 185@5200 195@4400 87.5 82 9.6:1
3VZ-FE DOHC 4 95 2958 200@5800 204@4600 87.5 82 9.6:1
5VZ-FE DOHC 4 96 3378 178@4600 225@3600 93.5 82 9.6:1
5VZ-FE DOHC 4 96 3378 180 224 93.5 82 9.6:1
5VZ-FE DOHC 4 95-97 3378 190@4800 220@3600 93.5 82 9.6:1
5VZ-FE DOHC 4 97-98 3378 185@4800 218@3600 93.5 82 9.6:1



Soooo, apparantly the non-joking answer is 4600-4800rpm.

 

Yeah, but that's when the flywheel is connected to a bench dyno. Again, these numbers are not considering the weight and gearing of the vehicles. Even though I don't own one, I can easily imagine how having 1 more gear (aka. 5-speed) which you can control can OWN over having a 4-speed auto you don't have much control over.

 

The gearing and drivetrain loss doesn't matter to the question at hand. The numbers change, but the powercurve will always be identicle.
Regardless of where you measure your horsepower, or what anything on the drivetrain is doing - the entire powercurve will still exactly follow the engine power curve to the letter.


No matter what gearing, differential, wheels driven, transmission gearing, or wheel size. The question "when does the engine stop making power" is answered by horsepower, which is a function of torque applied over both time, and distance. Horsepower peaks at 4800rpm, and falls off from there.

 

You are completely correct in that regard. The "no-joke" answer is 4800rpms. But not many people take up their engines to that high, especially with the HG troubles. Not putting down your efforts or anything, but I gues I was looking at more of an "everyday" point of view, where gearing and weight do make a difference.

Sorry for the misunderstanding.

 

If they dont take their 3vze to over 4000 they need a good swift kick in the ass. lol Seriously lugging the engine is doing more damage then revving it will ever do...

 

It's cool marko.

 

Okay, by 'seat of the pants' - if I'm driving up a mountain road (we have steep hills around here,) say in third just loafing along, it pulls nicely above about 2000 rpm. If I let it drop below about 1800 it just loses all it's "oomph." I like the low end that it has - the old 22RE NEVER could do what the 3.0 can do, on the same road I would be shifting down,shifting up, shifting down constantly.

Alternately, when pulling onto the freeway and gettin' on it - the power rush starts to come on around 3000-3200 and feels really good from 3800-4500ish. I really don't rev higher than that as it doesn't 'feel' like it likes it too much.

The 3.0 does not make a lot of power (as we all know) but the power that it makes works - it's usable. Smooth torquey power available above 1800, nice kick above 3000. The same characteristics but 100 hp more would be perfect.

 

QUOTE=Bumpin' Yota]Hmmm I have a 3.75hp alternator! HA figure that out in amperage at 14.5vdc! hehe

HP x 746
______________ = Amperes

Volts x Efficiency


-hehe-

 

Because I'm bored, I will post my butt-dyno power curve.

Idle-2000RPM= no guts. 2000-3000= pretty damn good torque. 3000-4000= holy moly surge of powah! 4000-4800= power trailing off. 4800-5500= only useful for revving out in 1st gear so the shift to 2nd is right in the sweet spot. The 1-2 shift is a HUGE leap in gearing. My first was made for crawling.

So to answer the original post about when the 3.0 stops making power--4800RPM.

We will see when my turbo 3.0 stops making power though. I have a funny feeling it will pull to 6K.

 

Did you see the thread a long while back about that - amazing how many people refused to believe it takes fuel (in the form of engine horsepower used up) to run the alternator...

 

bwahahaha. Yeah, the alt runs on free energy! It uses cold fusion.

 

weeeell you know my alternator is special in that it has its own anti gravity field combined with an ultra powerful magnetic array that keeps pressurized plasma at its core, that when a subspace field is generated around then whose polarity is reversed 50x a second, it will generate 13.9 giggawatts of power which rivals my old flux capacitor based alternator I used last year!!

Oh and not only does it provide my amps with sufficient power, it also DECREASES fuel usage, acts as a turbocharger, intercooler, AND stops receeding hairlines! LOL

hahaha ok no more Scientific America magazines during Miller time...

 

My 3.0 stops making power once the rev limiter starts up

 

Let's rephrase the question to "practical power."

My normal shifts are at about 2200 rpm.
My power shifts are at about 4000 rpm.

Sure you can get a little more above 4000 rpm, but the more you strain an engine, especially this engine, the shorter its life. I have 232,000 on mine driving like an old man, and if you do a search you'll find plenty that died early lives. These engines throw rods and blow head gaskets. I think at least part of the equation is how much you try to extract every last drop of power.

If you want power, you might want a couple more cylinders or a couple thousand pound diet.

 

I completely and utterly disagree with the above statements. Lugging a motor is worse for it than revving is; cabon build up, injector clogging, blah blah blah... I would never shift a 3zve at 2K rpms - every one I've ever owned was shifted at 3500-4500, depending on needs. If I was in a hurry, 5000+. The 3zve engine loves to rev and really doesn't like to be lugged. After head work, exhaust and intake, I regularly skipped 5th gear alltogether to keep the revs above 3000K on the highway, where the engine was happiest.

 

I agree, they shoulda replaced the piece of crap motor to begin with, because when i blew my third head gasket on my 3.0 Toyota finally said to hell with you, and they werent going to fix it anymore. Further more, I told them the head was blown when i brought it in, so they broke down the motor and sure enough it was, and when they said they would not fix it again, they also told me they wanted a thousand dollars for breaking down the motor, So I ended up rolling my friends tow truck down there and taking my truck back right out of their yard, Thanks TOYOTA...... and they had the nerve to call me three months later and tell me I needed to come get my truck outta their yard,,,hahahahahaha

 

Question? Where do you live that you were able to drive a tow truck in the back of a toyota service yard and take your truck? I use to get questioned walkin around a dealership lookin at window stickers.

 

So ya wanna ask me how many times I've been into my 3.0?

Edit: I forgot to mention, there's a big difference between lugging an engine and driving low in the RPM band like I do.