87 4Runner. 3" body lift. 3" rear add-a-leaf. cranked t-bars. I have 33x12.50/15 Maxxis Bighorns on 15x10s now. They rub on the inner fender very lightly if I hit a bump at full lock with a little speed. I'm putting my 4" Trailmaster IFS lift on next weekend. I want to keep my 15x10s. So what is the biggest tire I'll be able to clear? I do drive hard and I do flex it out. I will have the front t-bars still cranked a little just to keep some angle on the A-arms, but nothing major. So I guess I'll have more than 4 inches of lift in the front.
Here is my current setup. The back end is a little higher than usual in this picture because I was parked on a little slope.

 

If you rub now, I would guess 35" tires with no rub after lift but hard to say until you get in on and see what the lift gives you. If they rub against the pinch weld/rear of front fender only, they may still rub. Maybe 36"s. Post some pics after the lift and with the 33"s you have now.

 

They dont even rub on the pinch weld. I have that hammered over. They don't even touch any metal. It's just the bottom corner of the plastic inner fender doesn't bend up tight to the metal and that will snag on the tire a little.

 

35x12.50, 36x12.50" Even bigger if you go with a skinny tire..

 

1" more lift and he rubs (albeit slightly) now?

The same size tire with NO rubbing.

Normally, I would say 35x10.50, but not on 10" rims ...

 

me... I wouldn't change anything after putting on the 4" suspension lift...
I'd stick with the same size tires and maybe lose an inch off the body lift.

 

I'm definitely not staying with 33s. That would for the most part defeat the purpose of this suspension lift for me - tire clearance=ground clearance. And I'm keeping my 15x10s and tires at least 12.50 wide because 1)I think they look much better, 2)10.50s on narrower wheels with all that lift would be just a little scary through turns, and 3)I like the way the truck handles on the road with wider tires and more offset. I have 34x9.50s to play offroad with if it gets really nasty.

 

Absolutley not. I love my body lift. You never really appreciate one until you work on a Toyota with and without one. Changing a starter or battery leads is about 8 million times easier with a body lift. As is a slave cylinder, and filling up the tranny with fluid, just to name a few. Besides, I built front and rear bumpers to fit perfectly with my body lift. And I'm working on a transfer case skid/crossmember with more ground clearance at the moment. And a way to raise the fuel tank.

Thanks for the suggestions, but really all I want is to know what the largest tire diameter I can clear is with the amount of lift described above with a 12.50 tire on a 10 inch wide wheel.

 

anyone ever suggest you 'quote' the person you are replying to?

 

Well, see - here's the deal .. you SHOULD be able to clear 35x12.50's with the lift you have now. Those wheels you love so much, and that offset you are so dedicated to are what prevent it. Therefore - the biggest you can go keeping those factors, and trading the lift, you're STILL gonna be stuck with 33's.

You want to fit 35's, you're going to have to change something in the mix. The cheapest thing would be to start cutting sheetmetal out of the way.

 

You could put 37's on there if you want zero travel and don't want to turn. Do you want ground clearance or up/down travel? Pick one. I personally prefer to have wheel travel and articulate with a smaller tire then clearance. IMO.

 

Thanks abe but with a little reading following along shouldn't be all that hard. TC why would I not gain any clearance with 4" drop brackets in the front and the torsion bars at the same angle? Does the wider wheel honestly make that much of a difference? I know I could clear bigger than 35s with the 4" lift on, as I could clear bigger than 33s now. But I chose to run a slightly smaller diameter tire to keep the width. You don't think I could clear 35s on those same wheels?

 

If you dont't change something, you get the same results. You have been given valid and true answers, you just aren't listening. If you want big tires and flex, time to ditch IFS and for what that 4" TM kit cost you, you could have been well on your way.

Over 33s on Toyota IFS to wheel is stupid. You can do a lot more with lockers, armor etc on 33s and not bust junk all the time.

 

So your adding 1" up front and want to add 2"s of tire all around? You do the math. 35's will clear, but not travel very far. To further what TC said, Wide wheels/tires = no tuck, tuck = wheel travel. Its all about what you want to use the truck for man! You going for looks or function, muddin or rock crawling? Different setups/wheel widths for different functions.
What do YOU want?

 

Yes it does. If you went with an 8" with a larger backspacing number, you'd be able to clear quite a bit more than you do with the current wheels.

What determines rubbing is the arc that the tires make from full lock to full lock. When you add a wider wheel, and a smaller backspacing number, you push the outside of the wheel farther out from the truck. When you turn, you scribe a much larger arc.

I had an 8" wheel with 3.5" backspacing. My tires rubbed quite a bit. Then I went to a 7" wheel with 4.75" backspacing, SAME tires. I cleared by over an inch.

These factors make a huge difference.

As stated, since you are set on the wheels, tub it.

THere are great write ups, and if you cut enough out of the firewall, you should be able to fit a 37 or 38 under there, no problem.

 

I already have lockers front and rear. And the IFS and CVs hold up fine. I launch in 2nd gear in 4lo froma bout 3500rpm in dry dirt or mud and they're fine. I got the 4" Trailmaster kit for $150 used, along with a spare IFS diff and CVs complete with hubs. I have 85 front and rear axles just in case I change my mind (they came with a parts truck, long story), but I don't have the time or resources for a SAS. Nor do I trust myself to do the swap and keep it roadworthy. I'm terrified I'll have the passenger side spring mounts off a hair and be doglegging down the road. I drive this truck on the road a lot. When I'm not on the road I'm in the mud. Besides, the IFS is perfect for mud. I have much more ground clearance than a differential hanging down well below the centerline of the hubs.

 

Looks, function, and mud. I dont need any more flex than I already have. I'm not trying to argue with anybody or be the least bit offensive. How do you figure I'm only adding 1" up front? I'm putting on 4" drop brackets and keeping the a-arms at pretty much the same angle. Unless I don't have a correct understanding...that would mean 4 more inches of height up front.

And 33s to 35s is only an inch more of tire when talking about clearance. 2 inches overall, an inch farther from the center of the wheel or hub.

 

With that 4" i would say 35x12.50 should fit probably. Are you running stock gears?

 

Yes for now. I'm gonna get my lift and tires on and then decide on what gears I want. I know 5.29s are close to stock ratio for 35s but I like my gearing a little tall so I'm gonna wait and see.

 

man i got 6" of over all lift and i got 39.5x15 to fit with 8" rims and 1.5" wheel spacers, just had to cut alot of fender, but it still flexes pretty good. All depends if the sawzall scares you or not?