What seal packing (gasket material) do you prefer
Aug 28, 2009 | 11:53 AM
#21
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From: HAWAII
I've had good luck using various Hylomar sealants. In particular they have a non-hardening sealant that can be used to hold gaskets in place and allows for repositioning of the parts. I've used it on valve covers, carb baseplates and intake gaskets with great results.
For the most part though, if you follow the directions for applying the sealant and apply the correct torque you should not have a problem. If the directions say to allow 24 hours to cure, give it 24. Don't rush it. Premature exposure to oil/coolant/fuel can interfere with the curing process and weaken them. If it says to apply a 1/8" bead, do so, but keep in mind that too much can be just as bad as too little.
For the most part though, if you follow the directions for applying the sealant and apply the correct torque you should not have a problem. If the directions say to allow 24 hours to cure, give it 24. Don't rush it. Premature exposure to oil/coolant/fuel can interfere with the curing process and weaken them. If it says to apply a 1/8" bead, do so, but keep in mind that too much can be just as bad as too little.
I just read another post where you said you didn't care for the Toyota FIPG. Care to elaborate why? I might be interested in trying the Hylomar. They have several types, which particular one do you use for oil pans?
Thanks!!
Aug 30, 2009 | 05:03 PM
#24
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
). Yeah, I've mentioned i've had it for a while, didn't I? Well when I bought the tube it was marketed by Permatex as "Hylomar HPF" item #25249. From what I can gather, that sealant had evolved and is marketed as Hylomar "Universal Blue".
In my experience, you coat the parts' faces (and both sides of gasket as well if required by OEM) and put it together. If you separate the parts, all you have to do is keep the surfaces clean and they will re-seal when they are put back together. That is what makes dislike FIPG- FIPG gets hard and requires removing and re-applying the sealant when you separate parts. Call me cheap but Hylomar around the oil pan and you'd likely never have a problem and if you did, the cheap cork gasket with Hylomar on its face and some loctite blue on the pan bolts.... well, you get the picture.
Aug 31, 2009 | 11:49 PM
#29
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From: HAWAII
Sorry for the delay in replying. Couldn't get in the garage to check the tube (don't ask ).
Yeah, I've mentioned i've had it for a while, didn't I? Well when I bought the tube it was marketed by Permatex as "Hylomar HPF" item #25249. From what I can gather, that sealant had evolved and is marketed as Hylomar "Universal Blue".
In my experience, you coat the parts' faces (and both sides of gasket as well if required by OEM) and put it together. If you separate the parts, all you have to do is keep the surfaces clean and they will re-seal when they are put back together. That is what makes dislike FIPG- FIPG gets hard and requires removing and re-applying the sealant when you separate parts. Call me cheap but Hylomar around the oil pan and you'd likely never have a problem and if you did, the cheap cork gasket with Hylomar on its face and some loctite blue on the pan bolts.... well, you get the picture.
). Yeah, I've mentioned i've had it for a while, didn't I? Well when I bought the tube it was marketed by Permatex as "Hylomar HPF" item #25249. From what I can gather, that sealant had evolved and is marketed as Hylomar "Universal Blue".
In my experience, you coat the parts' faces (and both sides of gasket as well if required by OEM) and put it together. If you separate the parts, all you have to do is keep the surfaces clean and they will re-seal when they are put back together. That is what makes dislike FIPG- FIPG gets hard and requires removing and re-applying the sealant when you separate parts. Call me cheap but Hylomar around the oil pan and you'd likely never have a problem and if you did, the cheap cork gasket with Hylomar on its face and some loctite blue on the pan bolts.... well, you get the picture.
Thanks for replying. This thing sounds amazing. It's expensive though, but I hate removing the old sealant. I'm going to give it a try and I'll report back.
Thanks!
Jan 16, 2010 | 11:34 PM
#30
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From: Arizona
This is an older thread, but the question is timeless.
I'm still wondering what is best, or at least acceptable, to use on various gaskets.
I've gathered that if you use RTV, use it very sparingly, or else the extra blobs can break loose and cause major problems as they clog up smaller oil or water passages.
I used Permatex High Tack spray on my rear seal housing gasket, and the same on both sides of the rear cover plate on the head. It seems to be old school stuff, perhaps in a simlar league with Gasgacinch or aircraft sealer, though I don't know how those all compare. I have no idea how any of the gasket stickers/sealants compare to skim coating gaskets with RTV for sealing hardiness under different circumstances, ease of removal later, etc.
As far as RTV goes, Permatex Ultra Grey is preferred by Marlin, and putneysmachine told me some time ago it's all they use wherever a sealant is necessary. Jim Brink, a long-time Toyota mechanic, in his popular timing cover replacement write-up at 4x4wire, also recommends grey for the timing cover gaskets and the mating surfaces between head and oil pan.
Gasket quality varies. Here's an example. It's the one used for the water bypass plate under the intake manifold on a 22R. The Toyota factory gasket is precoated on one side with a bead of whatever. The gasket that came in Engnbldr's kit is plain.
What other factory gaskets come with a sealant pre-applied? When using cheap, plain gaskets, which should I apply some sealant to, and what should I use?
I'm still wondering what is best, or at least acceptable, to use on various gaskets.
I've gathered that if you use RTV, use it very sparingly, or else the extra blobs can break loose and cause major problems as they clog up smaller oil or water passages.
I used Permatex High Tack spray on my rear seal housing gasket, and the same on both sides of the rear cover plate on the head. It seems to be old school stuff, perhaps in a simlar league with Gasgacinch or aircraft sealer, though I don't know how those all compare. I have no idea how any of the gasket stickers/sealants compare to skim coating gaskets with RTV for sealing hardiness under different circumstances, ease of removal later, etc.
As far as RTV goes, Permatex Ultra Grey is preferred by Marlin, and putneysmachine told me some time ago it's all they use wherever a sealant is necessary. Jim Brink, a long-time Toyota mechanic, in his popular timing cover replacement write-up at 4x4wire, also recommends grey for the timing cover gaskets and the mating surfaces between head and oil pan.
Gasket quality varies. Here's an example. It's the one used for the water bypass plate under the intake manifold on a 22R. The Toyota factory gasket is precoated on one side with a bead of whatever. The gasket that came in Engnbldr's kit is plain.
What other factory gaskets come with a sealant pre-applied? When using cheap, plain gaskets, which should I apply some sealant to, and what should I use?
Last edited by flyingbrass; Jan 16, 2010 at 11:35 PM.
Jan 5, 2011 | 09:02 AM
#32
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From: San Francisco East Bay
According to Permatex, their plain-ole "Form-A-Gasket No 2" resists fuels. http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut..._2_Sealant.htm. Can't beat the price.
Jan 5, 2011 | 09:14 AM
#33
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Thought my earlier post didn't get posted so I'm going to try and post this question again because I think its a vital part of this thread as well as my current dilemma. So far no one is directly addressing the topic of FIPG / RTV materials that are ok in contact with gasoline. Potentially dangerous situation so can't trust "Always Works with Everything"
Last edited by Catamount; Jan 5, 2011 at 05:42 PM.
Jan 5, 2011 | 09:16 AM
#34
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More than a few options for gasoline resistant gasket makers/sealants are available. RTV/FIPG just isn't one of them.
Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 1 Sealant
Fast-drying, hard-setting sealant designed for sealing rigid materials and flanges, or patching holes and joints where permanent assembly is desired. Temperature range -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C); resists common shop fluids and fuels.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut..._1_Sealant.htm
Permatex® Aviation Form-A-Gasket® No. 3 Sealant
Slow-drying, non-hardening brush-top sealant approved for use in aviation as well as automotive applications. Temperature range -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C); resists gasoline, oil and grease.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut..._Sealant_a.htm
Permatex® Hylomar® Universal Blue Racing Formula Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant
Adopted worldwide by many automotive manufacturers and countless race teams for sealing gas and diesel engines and transmissions.
This non-chlorinated gasketing and sealing compound has been specially formulated to be non-setting and non-hardening at elevated temperatures. It withstands rapid changes in temperature and remains flexible and tacky even at high temperatures, allowing repeated disassembly and reassembly in high performance applications. This no-run formula seals surface imperfections on machined flanges and is vibration resistant. Temperature range of -60°F to +500°F (-50°C to +260°C); resists engine fluids, including water, coolant, gasoline, lubricating oils, kerosene and some refrigerants. Also possesses dust and moisture proofing properties.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ge_Sealant.htm
MotoSeal® 1 Ultimate Gasket Maker Grey
For two and four cycle engines. Solvent-based bond fully seals within 20 minutes. Forms a tough flexible bond that is highly effective on irregular and uneven joint surfaces. Ideal for use on frequently disassembled engines. Resists gasoline and other damaging fluids. Withstands temperatures 350°F (177°C) continuous, 400°F (204°C) intermittent.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...Maker_Grey.htm
Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 1 Sealant
Fast-drying, hard-setting sealant designed for sealing rigid materials and flanges, or patching holes and joints where permanent assembly is desired. Temperature range -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C); resists common shop fluids and fuels.
Permatex® Aviation Form-A-Gasket® No. 3 Sealant
Slow-drying, non-hardening brush-top sealant approved for use in aviation as well as automotive applications. Temperature range -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C); resists gasoline, oil and grease.
Permatex® Hylomar® Universal Blue Racing Formula Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant
Adopted worldwide by many automotive manufacturers and countless race teams for sealing gas and diesel engines and transmissions.
This non-chlorinated gasketing and sealing compound has been specially formulated to be non-setting and non-hardening at elevated temperatures. It withstands rapid changes in temperature and remains flexible and tacky even at high temperatures, allowing repeated disassembly and reassembly in high performance applications. This no-run formula seals surface imperfections on machined flanges and is vibration resistant. Temperature range of -60°F to +500°F (-50°C to +260°C); resists engine fluids, including water, coolant, gasoline, lubricating oils, kerosene and some refrigerants. Also possesses dust and moisture proofing properties.
MotoSeal® 1 Ultimate Gasket Maker Grey
For two and four cycle engines. Solvent-based bond fully seals within 20 minutes. Forms a tough flexible bond that is highly effective on irregular and uneven joint surfaces. Ideal for use on frequently disassembled engines. Resists gasoline and other damaging fluids. Withstands temperatures 350°F (177°C) continuous, 400°F (204°C) intermittent.
Last edited by MudHippy; Jan 18, 2011 at 02:22 PM.
Jan 5, 2011 | 09:23 AM
#35
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Thanx scope103 & Mud Hippy checked Permatex link and good ole Form a Gasket stat. sheet says its ok in contact with gasoline. The others say resists gasoline. They all have their specific attributes to fit specific situations. You've got me back to working instead of surfing and I'm sure helped many others.
Last edited by Catamount; Jan 5, 2011 at 09:31 AM.
Jun 27, 2013 | 07:51 PM
#36
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From: Vernon Hills, IL
Not true. Permatex is not even in the same league. The reason toyotas fipg is so good is because it's japanese. Made by threebond >> http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/
Toyota FIPG is permatex just with a toyota label on it. Ive talked to a permatex rep and all the dealerships use permatex just with their own lable on it, some even add dye to it to make it look different. All you have to do it make sure its sensor safe which most on the packages say that, a good rule of thumb is if it smells like vineger dont use it. Ive always used the permatex ultra grey for imports and ultra black on domestic. They both do the same thing but ultra grey can be used with antifreeze and ultra black is better with oil. They say on the back of the packages what the oem equivelent is and part number. If I have a gasket sometimes I use High Tack to make it stick. The Rightstuf is good to if you dont have time to wait as it will cure in 1 minute. Also if anyone has plastic headlights permatex sells a kit to sand and buff the oxidation out. A customer brought his lexus to the dealer to have his headlights fixed and they charged him $300.00 and they used the $15.00 permatex kit, they look like new.
Sep 5, 2013 | 02:23 AM
#37
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Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Chattanooga, TN
GREAT thread guys. Think I've decided on the permatex myself..never failed me yet. Does anyone have any comments on "DOMESTIC GASKETS" brand gaskets. That's what comes with the timing belt/water pump kit I'm contemplating on ebay. Comes with Valve cover Gaskets also..any insight on "DOMESTIC" brand would be awesome considering I've never gone that route.thanx
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