Itoyota

everyone knows the HG will do this, but I just put on the head, it was resurfaced, everything went well. Head bolts were re-used but only have 2000 miles on them from the last HG replacement. Copper sealent was sprayed onto the gasket (assist in high temp sealing)

The temp gauge never budges past it's almost to half way mark. The radiatior has never gone below FULL. The Oil has never dropped below FULL.

Mind you this is still the 1st set of oil since the HG has been replaced (ie) it has not been changed yet.

longhungsilver

rings, pcv valve clogged

Flash319

The head gasket would not normally cause blow by but could I guess. I would not have sprayed that copper on the head gasket though. Gaskets are gaskets, they don't need help.

thook

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/blowby.html
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h63.pdf
http://www.carinspector.us/oil-sludge.cfm

There are a few reasons why oil can get passed the rings, but first determine if what you're seeing is normal gas ventilation byproducts or actuall blowby. If you have actual "blowby", you should be using "some" oil and notice a decrease in fuel efficiency and power. Also, the O2 sensor should be picking up on this as blowby is burned in the combustion process throwing off the exhaust gas mix. Possibly you will see blue smoke.....even if only slightly. This eventually will clog the cat....increasing crankcase pressure. Also, your spark plugs will indicate signs of actual blow by....oil collecting on the tip/s. If you actually have blowby, there are products on the market that can relieve it or "fix" it....if it's not too bad.

Run a compression test. I have heard of valve jobs "creating" blowby due to a weakening crankcase.....weak oil seals and compression rings and/or scored cylinder walls. The increased vacuum in the refurbished head exaggerating an already developing problem in the cylinders. Sludge in the oil galleys or return orifices in the piston rod bearings/caps, etc. can create circulation problems and increase oil pressure excessively. Check you're oil pressure.

That's all I can think of at the moment.....besides an oil analysis.

Itoyota

I'll check the PCV valve, run compression test, and pull plugs. I'm not getting ANY abnormal smokle out the tailpipe, the entire engine was professionally rebuilt by a reputable performance engine shop 5k miles ago. I'm guessing it's residuals left from the head gasket RR that freed up and evapped.

thanks for all the info, and keep the ideas coming. I was hoping one of you could second the possibility of coolant leakage into the cyllinders via IM. But that would yield smoke and i don't get that.

thanks again

thook

When a shop repairs a motor for a failed headgasket, the residuals are supposed to be entirely cleaned out. That's a given and should be expected from a reputable shop. So, I wouldn't suspect that if where you went is trusted.

Now, since the ENTIRE engine was rebuilt, did you run the motor through a break in period? It's possible your rings did not seat well, if at all....depending on your answer to the question.

Itoyota

i ran a break in period on the motor when it was rebuilt by the shop. then, a valve guide broke and i yanked the head and made them run an entire valve job again. I did the labor on the RR of the head and gaskets after the entire longblock rebuild. I've literally done it 6 times and am pretty dang good. I was just wondering how in the HE(( it could be mixing coolant and oil, if the head's been pressure checked, the rings are new, the PCV valve is good so is the hose leading to the TB as well as the open oraphace valve @ the front of the valve cover. I know my valve cover is a lil warped, but that shouldn't create small deposits of milk on my oil cap. I honestly am stumped here. the head was decked, the gasket could be bad ... but what are the odds. I am just gettin' tired of this. First i get boned by a diff machine shop and my reubuild blows. they don't cover it. then the valve guide breaks, now the coolant polluting my oil. Is there any other place other than the HG where oil ports can seep into coolant ports or visa versa other than the HG or timing cover?

the oil change is done, i'm waiting to see if i still get milk with new oil ... i know i was getting 175 across all four for compression, and all the plugs look fine. no nothing on them, clean as plugs can be.

longhungsilver

Actually a warped valve cover can cause milky deposits on your oil cap and the surrounding area as moisutre is exposed to your oil.. ive seen it at work quite a few times with either warped valve covers or incorectly put on oil caps.

thook

Other than that, I believe the only other way (provided the headgasket has a good seal) is a leak at the timing cover.

BTW, Itoyota...
You only mentioned "blow-by" originally. That's different than "milk" in the motor....altogether. You said they decked the head. Did they also deck the block?

Post up if you see anymore milk with the oil change.

TNRabbit

^^^^Yep, timing chain worn thru timing cover will mix oil/coolant.

Itoyota

not the timing chain and timing cover. That's been fixed by me three years back with steel backed timing guides. The cover was welded where it chewed in but never broke all the way through. I think it's the HG just because of the amount of milk there. And yes it's still happenin' with the new oil change ... And I'll bet it's the head bolts. I should have replaced them with studs when i did my first overhaul. The valve cover may be warped .. but i don't think it would yeild this much milk and sweetly smelling milk might i add.

Itoyota

They never decked the block not to my knowledge ... i said "blow By" because i first thought that a leaking IM might be causing "blow By" of vaporous coolant into the crankcase. So i was not mistaken altogether. Maybe i should have been a little more clear. Nevertheless... i'm betting it's the head bolts like i said. I am going to replace them with studs and be done with it. I Don't wanna plop the extra $$$$ so they(the machine shop) can tell me my head needed to be resurfaced(even though it doesn't cuz it never ever ever ever overheated even a lil bit and it has only been 2,5K miles since I had the head completely overhauled again thanks to the broken valve guid pissing oil into #3.

thook

Yeah, I suppose if were the valve cover, you'd also be leaking oil there. Sweetly smelling? You didn't mention that part, either....lol.

MmmmmMMMmmmMMmm....can'o worms. That's too bad. I suppose there's only one way to know if it was the headbolts. But, people have reused them before without issue.

Itoyota

i know they've been reused w/out issue B4. I am one of them ... but they are TTY bolts and therefore there is streching after final torque. That's why you don't have to retorque after it warms up. This is the third time they have been torqued on. I bought these replacements (not original bolts) after the first three issues w/the the upper end ... then they were used by me, by the shop, and jsut this last time by me again. So i am really hoping it's the bolts. I looked inside the timing cover and the weld looks perfect and the timing guides are still there. did it just to be safe. And yeah the sweet smell just came up at the last post. We'll that's that ... and now I am debating rather or not to just slap on a new HG and new HB and call it good or pull the manifolds check the head for trueness and pressure test it for cracks. it's more money ... and more time.. two things i wish i had a closet full of ... but these days it seems to be the size of a sock drawer.

thook

Oh...three times a charm. Yeah, maybe that's all it is. If it didn't overheat, it's probably not cracked or warped. You can check the trueness yourself, but a pressure test I wouldn't think would cost that much, would it? I mean, coolant in the oil....you're going to have to pull the head and replace the gasket....again...right?

Itoyota

yes you are correct. But ive called about. $40 bucks for the pressure test, 110 for the gasket set and that's a hella lot more than if i just pulled the head left both the manifolds on, and paid 28 for a felpro HG and that's it. get what i'm sayin? Yank the head manifolds attached, plenum gasket may need to be replaced (prolly) and then i can avoid the exhaust gasket set (costs more by itself than the HG) and save me a ton o time. But it's not gonna be worth it if it continues to fail ... so has anyone used those head studs from enginebuilder or DOA whomever they are from. And are they functionally better than the head bolts? actual evidence, proven facts and such.