Super useful information. My wife's truck has this same engine, made life interesting with gasket replacement at 362000km but runs strong still. Just hit over 600000km in September and still runs great. Yes some of these engines can be a hassle, I guess it depends on what kind of life its had and build/repair quality it underwent will determine most major issues. We pull 3000lbs quite often and do lots of uphill driving and haven't had much issue. Won't do it forever and she is getting old but it is a good engine for us.

 

I love the new text color! This write-up is hella helpful. I have run into all of these problems prior to finding this thread, I am glad i'm not the only one (and i've seemed to approach each the same way recommend). Also everyone, our powering steering pumps DO NOT take power steering fluid. huge mistake i've made. Thought it should be added for newbie techs like myself.

 

I build a lot of 3.0 engines for people and block condition is a problem if maintenance is not done on schedule. Toyota themselves recommend the green antifreeze. Engines with cast iron blocks have been used since engines were created an pose little problem if coolant is replaced on a regular basis. What you have here is a cast iron block with aluminum heads which causes problems with dissimilar metals and intergranular corrosion. All cast iron blocks will corrode if antifreeze is not changed. Even worse is that the aluminum will corrode as well.
Your best bet with these blocks is to flush and change the green antifreeze every 1 to 2 years and if still worried about it then run a sacrificial zinc anode in the radiator. You can buy a radiator cap with a zinc anode connected to it.
The Toyota red won't fix a system that has already corroded.

 

I'm in need of an output shaft(mine is bent) for a VF1A transfer case out of my 94 Runner. Anyone know where I can get one? Also need a rebuild kit for this transfer case do they have one anywhere?

 

Even though you are hijacking this sticky thread, I will respond.....

Where are you located?? I have a low mile VF1A in good condition I might part with.

 

All,
I apologize not sure how this happened, It was not my intention to do so. I'm at a loss to find a good output shaft. I'm located in Sioux City IA, 51106.

 

I wanted to say thanks for the informative sticky. I've checked it out a couple times keeping my 91 4runner going and it's been great!

 

I am not familiar with that part number. Is that the out put shaft for the automatic or the manual? I have a complete transfer case for an automatic if that is the one you need.

 

Bought my '94 3.0 4Runner in 2000, with 98k miles on the motor (after previously owning an '84pu, '88pu and '89 4Runner). We call her the Black Pearl. Through the years, I've done much of the suggestions/tips in this thread. Lots of upgrades done for off-road and performance, too. She went to 379k miles before the dreaded head gaskets went again in 2015 (for the 4th time!) and cracked the upper block. Got a re-manufactured motor and was on the road again. Gone through all the heartaches of all the HG issues, and thought I was done with them, since I've done so much of the suggested maintenance, mentioned here. Damn, it it didn't happen again this weekend! Guess whoever rebuilt that last motor, didn't find the "new and improved Toyota head gaskets" to put on. Geez. I've got 420,500k miles out of her...thought I could hit the 500k mark. "Oh, what a feeling, Toyota"!...right? Wife is bugging me to get to get rid of her. Gonna miss the Black Pearl.

 

 

Have the fuel injectors rebuilt they replace them and put the throttle body back on but now it's spitting gasoline into the cylinder again I need help somebody please help me out with this gas was pouring out the front of my end I don't know what's going on someone please post something to help me out

 

okay so I have a 95 4Runner 4x4 with the 3vze and an automatic. I bought it about a month ago with a mis-fire. Code14. I did plugs wires cap and rotor. Ran perfect for about 10-15 mins, trouble code was cleared never came back. Then I got in it to go to the store probably 20 mins after doing plugs and noticed a low(500-600) rough idle I checked over the plugs wires cap and rotor, all installed correctly. I pulled the codes again and got code 72. Shortly after I pulled the code, I started reading what all of you guys had to say, thank you by the way. To everyone. Anyway I checked vacuum, I think all the lines are routed correctly the egr is functioning. I figured it could use a light cleaning anyway so I pulled the egr apart cleaned it and put it back together( had the battery cable off). After putting it back together I don’t have a code(I think I cleared it with the battery being disconnected) but I took it for a test drive all was well until about the time I hit operating temp. Too the point(sorry trying to give as much info as possible) the truck now idles decently but sputters From takeoff until about 2500 rpms then it clears up. Any help would be greatly appreciated as of right now there are no codes flashing so I’m kinda stumped. Should I clean the throttle body? I fiddled with the tps that’s how I got the idle close but can’t figure out the sputter. Please help
a friend of mine said maybe the cam position sensor?

 

These runners can be touchy. Looks like your trying all the obvious items. things to check would also be: check valve adjustments, you could have a tight one in that cylinder, check to see your power brake booster is not leaking( will cause lean condition in one cylinder making NOX sky high),put a old school timing light on the bad cylinder and watch the light to make sure your coil is not crapping out, I usually replace all the fuel injector connectors when changing injectors ( you could have a partially broken wire or bad connection), also check the plenum gaskets for air leaks, sometimes the TPS adjustment is hard to get right and will cause some bad missing if not right ( I gave up on the book adjustment and adjust it by ear to where it runs right). Sometimes it's just trial and error till you hit on the problem, but it will get there.
Good luck hunting.

 

Does anyone know way my 4Runner dies or is lack of power on fourth gear? Please help

 

Great read! Helped me better understand my engine and now I have a lot more things to add to the maintenance list.

 

I hate to ask a dumb question, but is your air cleaner clean? Sorry, it sounds like an air flow restriction. Could also be your Air
flow sensor, or fuel flow.

 

Thank you OP! I've referenced this write up over a hundred times, and it has been a huge help.

I'm a first time wrencher and long time DIYer, and I've had a lot of fun (for the most part) tinkering on my 2nd Gen 1995 4Runner 3vze manual 4WD with 195k miles.

Work history documented below. What next? I'm itching to upgrade the suspension, maybe bolt on some headers and replace the cat & muffler? Intake mods seem easy and inexpensive, but I have read mixed reviews on whether there is any benefit. Should I delete the EGR or wait until something breaks? It's running pretty great right now, but now I have the itch to wrench. Being quarantined due to COVID-19 is intensifying this itch.

My goals are to increase performance (power and MPG), keep this thing running for another 200k miles, and keep it "stock+" (close to original but enhanced). It's a daily driver. I don't have any offroad aspirations.

July 2019

• New alternator
• New battery
• New rear brake drums
• New master cylinder
• New water pump
• New timing belt
• New clutch slave cylinder
• Fixed surf window switch
• New fuel filter
• New radiator fan shroud

August 2019

• New windshield
• New thermostat
• New JVC stereo receiver with microphone and Bluetooth
• New Rockford Fosgate front dash speakers
• New Denso plugs
• New NGK performance plug wires
• New Denso OEM rotor
• New Denso OEM distributor cap
• New reverse light switch
• New front blinkers
• Lubed surf window and sunroof joints
• New Aisin door lock actuator in passenger door
• New Toyota OEM power radio antenna
• New upper air intake hose
• Cleaned valves

September 2019

• Changed transmission fluid with Redline MT90
• New Denso oxygen sensors
• Cleaned EGR system and replaced gaskets
• New power steering idle air control valve
• Changed power steering fluid
• New shifter knob

October 2019

• New coolant temp sensor
• New Toyota OEM thermostat
• New Weathertech cargo liner

November 2019

• Head gasket rebuild
• Resurfaced heads
• New knock sensor & wiring harness

December 2019

• New front bumper
• New taillight and rear blinker bulbs

January 2020

• New Toyota OEM shifter bushing and seat collar
• New Denso OEM throttle position sensor

March 2020

• Changed fluid in front & rear differentials and transfer case. Valvoline 75w90
• New battery
• New Toyota OEM battery harness

Upcoming projects planned:

• Replace o rings on oil cooler (nasty leak).
• Remove the tach cluster and clean the contacts, tighten everything up (I'm getting the irregular tach jumping likely caused by a bad connection in the cluster).
• Moog rear coil springs & spacers (getting a little butt sag and the ride is a little rough).
• Replace missing skid plate.
• Clean up the engine bay without frying anything.

 

No. Deleting the EGR won't help performance or mileage. Since one of the effects of the EGR is to reduce peak combustion temperature, there are some who think deleting the EGR will shorten engine life. Maybe.

Are you exempt from smog checks in Travis County already? If not, you'll need the EGR to pass. And your options for selling your 4runner are significantly reduced if you're missing any emissions equipment (you wouldn't be able to register it in California without EGR, FWIW.)

Last, and certainly not least, it's the air you (and the rest of us) are breathing that you're poisoning. Let the EGR do its job.

 

Thanks @scope103. I have no interest in mods that increase pollution. I've just read several polarizing arguments on deleting vs. keeping the EGR (polarizing on both performance and impact to environment).

Any mods to your 3vze that you'd recommend? Thanks!

 

From 2006 to 2014 I owned a 1990 Extended Chassis, One Ton, Dual Wheel rear floating axle, pickup, built into a C-Class motorhome by Winnebago. It was powered by the 3VZE. I agree with everything said in the above-mentioned write-up. During my ownership I replaced the timing belt, water pump, and idler pulleys, adjusted the valves, just to name a few. I also repacked the rear axle wheel bearings and adjusted the brakes. The valve adjustments weren't too bad. With 72K miles on the engine, only about three or four of the valves needed adjustment. My local Toyota Dealer's parts department was well managed and I got the shims needed in two days. At first, I bought aftermarket brake rotors and a few seals but soon learned the best thing you can do for any Toyota is stick with OEM parts. Toyota's parts quality is a major reason for their dependability. The Only job I didn't do myself was a muffler replacement. When I sold the truck in 2014 it needed a new Catalytic Converter to pass CA emissions. That cost me $400.00. The biggest mistake was not removing the tags when I sold it. The new owner drove it to New York and started running toll gates and I would get the notice of violations.