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What Else to Do When replacing the Front Main Seal/Oil Seal

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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 03:11 PM
  #1  
StOhnoes's Avatar
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From: Huntington Beach, CA
What Else to Do When replacing the Front Main Seal/Oil Seal

Hey guys! Just to get it out there, im a rook and i want to thank you guys for taking the time to read and help.

Did a little researching on the front main seal (what the FSM calls an oil seal) I think i need to replace on my 86 22re. I found out where it is, i am feeling ballsy enough to get down on it.

The manual says when working on the oil pump to remove the oil pan and oil strainer and clean those. Is that nessasary? How do i clean it? (Whiping? Soap?) How long would that take?

If i take off the pan, should I replace the pan gasket?

It seems that the radiator needs to come off to open up the engine bay. My radiator has some very small holes in it. Should i flush the radiator a few times to clean it since im taking it off? Would 50/50 water and vinegar be too corrosive to the potentially delicate innards of the radiator?

Are there any hoses/gaskets/rings/etc i should check or look at while the cars 'open'?

Quick recap:
Clean Oil Pan?
Clean Oil Strainer?
Replace OP Gasket?
Radiator Flush?
Check Anything?

Thanks Again! Ill pic document the experience so the common knowledge might increase!!!
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 03:50 PM
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From: fort mohave AZ
the crank seal is an easy replacement, all u have to do is take the belts off, remove the crank pulley bolt"ive used the starter trick because i didnt have an air compressor" the pulley should come off the crank fairly easy, the crank seal will be right there once u have it off. it took me less than a half hour to replace mine.
you dont have to remove the pan or radiator to change this part, just take the lower part of the fan shroud off. if your radaitor has holes i would get a new one....
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 12:50 AM
  #3  
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drain the oil first?
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 01:48 AM
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From: Maui HI
I would have to vote on the yes side. changing oil pump seal and seals the oil in "I assume. Get to do mine this weekend as well, with the oil pan gasket thoe.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 06:38 AM
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by StOhnoes
drain the oil first?
No. The oil pump is up above the oil level in the pan. The whole process took be a couple of hours but I pulled the radiator so I'd have enough room to work easily. If I ever have to do it again it should take me about half that time since now I know what to remove and what to leave.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 07:02 AM
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From: Calgary, AB Canaduh
Yeah, front main is really easy. When i did mine, we kinda had a hard time getting it out of the oil pump. But after that, the new one went in with ease.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 07:19 AM
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just my 2cents

Closely look at your crankshaft. It needs to be free of any grooves, or it could leak just as before. There are speedi-sleeves available at NAPA that i have used on several compromised cranks. The one thing I would strongly consider while your hands are dirty is the timing chain. These motors are bulletproof with a little maintenance. I think the interval is @100k for the chain. If it's let go for too long, the chain will develop slop, gouge the timing cover, and show all the signs of a head gasket, that no ammount of stop leak or gasket replacement will fix. I have learned over time that I won't have time to fix it right later, especially if I didn't think I had the time to do it correctly the first time. Contact a local engine machine shop, with a little digging, you should be able to find someone that messes with these little motors. Pick their brain.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 08:54 AM
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From: fort mohave AZ
the oil seal doesnt ride on the crankshaft, it rides on the crank pulley
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 08:57 AM
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From: Calgary, AB Canaduh
Originally Posted by toytohunt-in
Closely look at your crankshaft. It needs to be free of any grooves, or it could leak just as before. There are speedi-sleeves available at NAPA that i have used on several compromised cranks. The one thing I would strongly consider while your hands are dirty is the timing chain. These motors are bulletproof with a little maintenance. I think the interval is @100k for the chain. If it's let go for too long, the chain will develop slop, gouge the timing cover, and show all the signs of a head gasket, that no ammount of stop leak or gasket replacement will fix. I have learned over time that I won't have time to fix it right later, especially if I didn't think I had the time to do it correctly the first time. Contact a local engine machine shop, with a little digging, you should be able to find someone that messes with these little motors. Pick their brain.
If he was going to drop the oil pan, then yeah go for it and do the timing chain if it hasnt been replaced at all.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 09:33 AM
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From: Lancaster, PA
I'm changing the oil pump o-ring and front seal right now. My advice use a 6 point socket. I used my worn out 12 point and well....i gotta run out and get a 6 point now.
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