old4runner

I need to replace my timing chain, but the hanes manual and autozone.com both say i need to pull the head to do it. Does anyone know of a way to change the timing chain on my 87 22re without removing the head?

MMA_Alex

do a search. it has been done, but its way easier to pull the head.

sdstud212001

Welcome to yotatech, I see youre new here. Let be be the first to say this site is a wealth if info. If you need somthing specific please use the search button at the top.

with that said if you still can not find what you need just ask

Here you go this might be of use to you
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../8timingch.pdf

YotaJunky

I would suggest dropping the oil pan rather than removing the head. The easiest way in my opinion would be to loosen all of the oil pan bolts and just drop the front part of the oil pan about an inch or so without removing the front differential. That way you'll have enough clearance to get your timing cover back on without damaging the head gasket.

Good Luck.

Troy

sdstud212001

wouldn't you need to replace the gasket if you do that?

YotaJunky

Replacing the HG and dropping the oil pan completely is the proper way to do it according to the FSM. In order to drop the oil pan completely, you'll need to remove the front differential and drive shafts. I've done it twice without replacing the HG. You may want to do more research before diving in.

It's my understanding that if you do decide to remove the HG, you may have to resurface the head, buy new head bolts, a new HG and have an accurate torque wrench to help you reassemble everything.

I've used the link below to help me through the process.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

Good Luck!

Troy

Elton

welcome to yotatech ... dont no if this will help you Click Here also have you already got your timing chain and where did you get it from

all_terrain17

It's A LOT easier to just keep the head on and gently pull the cover off. Be very careful when reinstalling the cover so as to not tear up the HG too, and don't install the crank sprocket backwards

I've got a thread around here somewhere with my stab at a timing chain and head gasket job...

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

What is the easy way to replace my timing chain?

Drop it off at the shop with your Mastercard.

Sorry... I just couldn't resist.

sdstud212001

beacuse they dont take American Express

old4runner

"welcome to yotatech ... dont no if this will help you Click Here also have you already got your timing chain and where did you get it from"

no, haven't done anything yet

old4runner

i'd love to, but i'm too poor for that

old4runner

thanks man, that's a good site

tkm433

YOU DO NOT HAVE TO PULL THE HEAD! For that much you do not have to remove the oil pan either. It is best to drop the pan so you can clean out any crap that might of ended up there over the years.

Before you get into taling the front of the motor apart you will want to break the bolt holding the lower pulley to crank loose.

While you are in there I would go ahead and replace the oil pump and water pump so you will not have to worry about these items in the future.

I guess you have a 4x4 and it is IFS so it is a bear to drop the oil pan but it can be done if you lower the front axle by undoing the mounting bolts to the frame and this willgive you a few more inches to play with the pan. You will need to reach between the pan and the motor to undo the oil pick-up bolts before you can remove the pan.

You will want to remove the pan to make sure you do not have any crap like broken timing chain related items still in the pan.

If you do not decide to drop the oil pan you will want to change the oil before you start your motor after installing the new parts. This is becasue when you removed the timing cover there is a very good chance no matter how well you tink you drained the water/antifreeze some did manage to flow into the oil pan when you were taking the cover off. Oil and antifreeze do not play together well and will hurt your motor.

Make sure you use the correct length bolt in the oil pump (the one below the timing marks) if you decide to replace the pump. If you use a bolt that is to long it will hit the chain tensioner.

Ron521

The timing chain on my 89 22R had stretched enough to rattle when first starting, so I replaced it and upgraded to the double row chain offered by LC Engineering. Kit comes complete with chain, sprockets, new oil pump, water pump, and new timing cover. All the parts are OEM quality or better, many had the Aisin name on them. Also replaced rod and main bearings, and since pan was off anyway, I chose to not remove the head. Timing cover has just enough room to slide into place below front edge of head, however I would suggest some type of really good gasket maker there, it is difficult to get this completely oil tight, as you are basically reusing that portion of the head gasket at the very front which seals this joint. I have a slight seepage on the front of the engine, not enough to make a difference in how much oil it uses between changes, but enough to not look pretty, and sometimes leave a drop or two on the driveway.

rustypigeon

I've done 2 of these jobs. My truck and a friends. Both times I removed the oil pan (which requires removing the differential) and left the head on. I think this is the best way to do it. Removing the oil pan will allow you to get any broken chain guide pieces out. With the pan removed you can re-seal it more effectively to the block. Here are the instuctions I used to do the job.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/

Blackulua

You only need to first drain all of the engine block water completely and take off all the timing cover bolts to remove,valve cover,loosen the oil pan bolts to the timing cover,alternator and water pump and belts and power steering out off the way,crankshaft pulley, top radiator hose and leave the head and radiator on....Ive done this many times and it gets easy on the second and third time...the only pain in the ass job that it is very dirty so its easier to have a clean timing cover ready to bolt-on...