Yeah, I have a good days worth of gasket scraping, parts cleaning, prepping and painting, before I get get to the reassembly. I'm trying to decide if I should just pull the head and send it in for a rebuild so I can get that out of the way and have some SOLID peace of mind. My new (stock) tbars won't be here till tomarrow or next (thanks, BLKNBLU) so I have an extra day to do whatever I need to.

 

It is pieces of the timing chain guide. Guarenteed. I just tore down my endire engine, dropped the oil pan and i was wondering the same thing. Then i pulled the timing chain cover last and one of the guides was completely chewed up. Looked just like that!

 

I didn't mean to say rtv. That stuff if crap. I meant to say toyota FIPG. That stuff rocks.

 

Different RTV compositions have different properties...
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ket_makers.htm
...though if you read through them, you will find many are very similar. It looks like I have accumulated red, blue, black, and gray over the recent year or 2. I remember using the red on the cylinder head gasket at the 2 spots indicated in the FSM where the cylinder head/timing cover/block all meet up. It worked fine. I also used it on my rear diff after I put in the lockright and it eventually leaked. However that may have been on me as I also used the Toyota paper gasket in addition to the RTV and have since read it's better to do one or the other, not both. It is now in there with Ultra grey that came with my TG stud kit. So far so good, but it hasn't been in very long yet. The black and the blue are unopened and I'm not even sure how/why I came to own them.

I wondered about the gasket thing too and finally poked around a bit to learn more. What I found:

I have a 1984 FSM here at home as well as a Haynes '79-'92. My '84 shows the exploded views of the engine with a gasket for the oil pan and specifies applying "sealer" (no part number) between the gasket and engine at the four corners more or less. (there is a picture) It also does not list the torque spec if ft-pd but the other measurements given all appear about half the torque listed in the newer manuals. This is confirmed in the Haynes that lists 4.5 ft-pd for '79-'84 and 9 ft-pd for '85 and newer.

The '85 and '93 manual show no oil pan gasket and specify "No. 102 seal packing" (Part No. 08826-00080) to be applied in a 5mm bead on the oil pan and on the engine in the four corners. (at the joints between the block/chain cover in front and block/oil seal retainer in the rear) All this sealant is to be applied in 5 min or less or you have to start over. The only other difference I saw was the pre '85 manual indicates the pan has 3 studs/nuts and 15 bolts while the '85 and newer have 2 studs/nuts and 16 bolts.

The '85 manual (a PITA to use as you have to scroll through the entire manual)
http://www.functionalfab.com/resourc...%204runner.pdf
The '93 manual
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

 

So, I have black and am planning to start reassembly today. I read the link and it looks that the red has a 150F higher temp threshold than the black I have. There are lots of loooong uphill pulls on the highways around here that can really get you heated. Will the black hold up?

 

I've used black on everything I've ever needed it for, and it holds up just fine. I'm a mechanic on construction equipment, so if it can take a beating there, it'll be fine for the uphill pulls.