I just put a 1/2 inch home depot bolt and nut in place of my torsion bar adjuster bolt... Will I make it to work alive tomorrow? Lol it's probably not a good idea.

 

 

Is it grade 8??

 

If your questioning such a thing why do it and why take the chance?? Just sayin.

 

Pay up your life insurance. Darwin is looking for you.

:wabbit2:

 

YT's September Darwin Award nominee

 

If you are asking that question, I think you already know the answer...

 

Wouldn't do it it.

 

all thread or carriage bolt?

why take a chance?


dealership sells em for about 6 bucks iirc.

PS can i buy some life ins for you?

 

I think grade 8 would probably be ok for a short amount of time. If the bolt breaks it is going to cause that side of your truck to fall to the bumpstop. I do not know how low that would be for your truck, but it may cause it to ride on the tire and possibly could make the morning commute more interesting than normal. I know the bolts that go in the bellhousing are J-Spec bolts. They seem to be out of some type of hardened steel and they do not have the same size heads as normal bolts do. Good luck with that. For sure hit the dealership up as soon as you can.

 

Good thing I elected to get the accidental death/dismemberment coverage last week lol..

I put that bolt on, some zinc plated grade 2 pos or something and I was afraid to even torque it down hard enough to level the truck..

In the end my sense of self preservation, with a little prodding from you guys, won out and I took the bus to work.. I got the real thing from the dealer today

The 12mm adjuster bolt origionally broke because it started to thread itself into the hole on my 22mm socket which was like 7/16.. Kinda hard to see from underneath the whole deal

 

Good thing you changed your mind. I recently swapped torsion bars on mine and had to snap both of those bolts to get them out, since they were corroded that badly. When you see a 24" breaker bar deflecting as much as mine did before they eventually snapped (putting a small dent in the floorboard on the driver side), you would understand why you want the original bolts and not some grade 2 bolt in there.

 

A Happy Ending!

I was going to post that you please keep your phone video camera going so we would at least get video of the impending disaster~

 

If it fails it will just bottom out the suspension onto the the bump stops. If your rig has long travel or its cranked in it will have a further distance to fall and it will sit lop sided but most likely for mellow street driving you should be able to remain in control. Now if your racing down some twisty mountain road at high speed you might loose control and fly off the cliff. Anyhow, I'm glad you chose the safe option and rode the bus.

 

My passenger side torsion bar bolt just snapped tonight and left a very nice dent in the floorboard on the passenger side. I don't think you can even drive after that as the arm the bolt goes through that is attached to the torsion bar seems to rest against the underside of the body. It's a shame as I won't have my bolts until Monday. I used almost a whole can of PB Blaster over the last few days and it still wasn't able to break the marriage between the bolt and nut. Anti seize will be used in generous amounts when the new bolts go on!

 

yea,
i had to use a cut off wheel on the lock nut when i took the bars out doing my swap.
got into one of the bolts before i got it broke loose.
thats why i have a new bolt on one side.

 

Well, I ordered my bolts, nuts, and anchor seats first thing this morning from the dealer. and I think I'll end up using a grinder wheel to get the other bolt off. Can anyone answer why the same parts vary so much in price between dealers? We have two large Toyota dealers and the one dealer's prices are almost double what the other dealer's prices are. Both use genuine Toyota parts. I just picked up some output seals yesterday from the dealer who has the lower prices and the parts look identical to the parts I looked at from the other dealer who charges almost double. Same genuine toyota parts sticker on both. Can anyone answer as to why prices are so different?

 

some dealers are greedier than others.
they can charge as much as they want to.

shop around.

why are you replacing anchor seats and nuts?
i reused the seats and adjusting nuts when i did mine. the locknuts and bolts are the only things you should have to replace.

use the grinder to cut the locknut only.

 

I figured if I'm going to do it I might as well replace everything and start from scratch. I'm going to anti-seize every metal surface that contacts one another and also figured it would be better to do this with all new hardware. The anchor seats are pretty corroded/rusted and one of them is also fused to the bolt head on the bolt that broke. The anchor seats are actually the most expensive parts too.