What is this
What is this
Jan 18, 2012 | 07:37 PM
#4
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Kent, OH
X 2, what he said. ITs a VSV or TVV. I have an extra identical plug on mine thats for the A/c I think. But i dont have the option at all in my truck for A/c. If thats the case for you maybe you could cut and splice that connector to fit. Just a thought 
and yes that will cause it not to run. Good luck
and yes that will cause it not to run. Good luck
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Jan 19, 2012 | 05:14 PM
#8
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,106
Likes: 27
Last edited by MudHippy; Jan 20, 2012 at 10:11 AM.
Jan 19, 2012 | 05:30 PM
#9
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 2
From: middle of no where Alaska
Just looked at my '95 22re and pictures/memory of my '88 22re.
Blue is the FPR VSV. Red is the PAIR/AS VSV. I had to replace the RED PAIR VSV on my '88 to get it I/M'ed. I swapped the RED VSV (PAIR) from my '93 22re onto my '88 to do so.
Blue is the FPR VSV. Red is the PAIR/AS VSV. I had to replace the RED PAIR VSV on my '88 to get it I/M'ed. I swapped the RED VSV (PAIR) from my '93 22re onto my '88 to do so.
Jan 20, 2012 | 09:29 AM
#10
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
From the pics it looks like a 22re - what year? What have you checked other than replacing fuel pump - did you check for spark?
Look for power on +B in the check connector when ignition on. If no, double-check EFI fuse on passenger inner fender, and IGN fuse in drivers kick (at least, that's where it is on my 89). If the fuses are good and no power on +B, probably either bad EFI Main Relay or bad ignition switch, possibly bad wiring connection. If there's power at the IGN fuse when ignition switch is on, then the switch is probably okay and it's likely to be the relay.
If power on +B, check for spark. The least likely to shock yourself way is to pull a wire from a single plug, plug an extra spark plug into the cable and set the plug where the base (not center electrode) is in contact with a good engine ground and have a helper crank it. If no spark, check for power on positive terminal of ignition coil when ignition is on. If no power, either bad ignition switch, or bad wiring connection/blown fusible link.
If no spark but there IS power to the coil, most likely bad coil, possibly bad igniter or bad connection or blown signal coil in the distrib, or bad connection TO the signal coil. To check the ignition coil, make sure ignition off & disconnect all wires to coil. Between positive & neg terminals of coil should be (assuming later model 22re) .36 to .55 ohms (that's right - about half an ohm). Between positive terminal and high tension terminal (where cable attaches) should be between 9,000 - 15,400 ohms (9k -15.4k ohms). Unfortunately it's possible for a coil to pass this test and still be bad. But it's not real common. The best test is on a hot coil using the hot specs but that's a bit difficult if it won't start.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/ignition/4onvehicl.pdf
The resistance of the signal coil in the distrib should be 185-275 ohms. Air gap between the signal rotor lobes and the signal coil projection should be .2 - .4 mm (0.008 - 0.016 in)
If spark okay, check that injectors are firing. Easiest way is to place the metal rod of a mechanics stethoscope (usually cheap at any parts store) against the metal body of an injector while a helper cranks it. If it's firing the clicks will be loud and clear. If no clicks, check any wire connected to any injector for power when ignition is on. (They should all have power when ignition is on; the ecu fires them by grounding them.) If no power, either bad ignition switch, or bad wiring between fusible link and switch, or between switch and injectors. On 88 and earlier models there is an inline resistor between switch & injectors that could be bad.
If spark okay & injectors are firing, check fuel pressure.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/engine/28fuelpump.pdf
If fuel pressure, spark & injector firing okay, check compression, then valve & ignition timing, making sure distrib isn't 180 degrees off.
This post has some links that may be useful:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51134917
Look for power on +B in the check connector when ignition on. If no, double-check EFI fuse on passenger inner fender, and IGN fuse in drivers kick (at least, that's where it is on my 89). If the fuses are good and no power on +B, probably either bad EFI Main Relay or bad ignition switch, possibly bad wiring connection. If there's power at the IGN fuse when ignition switch is on, then the switch is probably okay and it's likely to be the relay.
If power on +B, check for spark. The least likely to shock yourself way is to pull a wire from a single plug, plug an extra spark plug into the cable and set the plug where the base (not center electrode) is in contact with a good engine ground and have a helper crank it. If no spark, check for power on positive terminal of ignition coil when ignition is on. If no power, either bad ignition switch, or bad wiring connection/blown fusible link.
If no spark but there IS power to the coil, most likely bad coil, possibly bad igniter or bad connection or blown signal coil in the distrib, or bad connection TO the signal coil. To check the ignition coil, make sure ignition off & disconnect all wires to coil. Between positive & neg terminals of coil should be (assuming later model 22re) .36 to .55 ohms (that's right - about half an ohm). Between positive terminal and high tension terminal (where cable attaches) should be between 9,000 - 15,400 ohms (9k -15.4k ohms). Unfortunately it's possible for a coil to pass this test and still be bad. But it's not real common. The best test is on a hot coil using the hot specs but that's a bit difficult if it won't start.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/ignition/4onvehicl.pdf
The resistance of the signal coil in the distrib should be 185-275 ohms. Air gap between the signal rotor lobes and the signal coil projection should be .2 - .4 mm (0.008 - 0.016 in)
If spark okay, check that injectors are firing. Easiest way is to place the metal rod of a mechanics stethoscope (usually cheap at any parts store) against the metal body of an injector while a helper cranks it. If it's firing the clicks will be loud and clear. If no clicks, check any wire connected to any injector for power when ignition is on. (They should all have power when ignition is on; the ecu fires them by grounding them.) If no power, either bad ignition switch, or bad wiring between fusible link and switch, or between switch and injectors. On 88 and earlier models there is an inline resistor between switch & injectors that could be bad.
If spark okay & injectors are firing, check fuel pressure.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/engine/28fuelpump.pdf
If fuel pressure, spark & injector firing okay, check compression, then valve & ignition timing, making sure distrib isn't 180 degrees off.
This post has some links that may be useful:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51134917
Last edited by sb5walker; Jan 20, 2012 at 09:44 AM.
