1) Here's a little video I recorded documenting the sound I get from my engine a lot recently:
(You will have to turn your volume up really high, the mic on my phone is very poor.)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPjO3...ature=youtu.be

Is this a belt or something? I honestly can't figure out where the sound is coming from but it's annoying as hell so any help is appreciated.

2) I noticed that my windows move slower when multiple windows are moving at the same time. Is it time to upgrade my battery to an optima? Or would there be a different reason that causes this?

3) My rear passenger windows have always been the slowest thing to move on this planet. I posted about this a while ago, and the solution was lubricant, but the problem is back and I'm wondering if I should look into replacing the motor itself?

Thanks guys and gals.

 

1. I don't know.
2. No. Sure, you're pulling enough current to get a voltage drop in the wiring.
3. Probably not.

 

Re (2): All 4runners can't be like that...as soon as two windows start moving the voltage drop is that significant? That would just be poor engineering.

Re (3): If not a new motor, then what else could be the cause? The other windows work fine, but the rear ones got a lot more use when we were kids so I'm thinking the motor finally started to quit.

 

Well, on my '94, when I run two windows at once they will slow slightly. I suspect that I could completely disassemble the windows, grease them up well and reinstall with new, more slippery tracks, and they would move with a little less current draw. But I also suspect that a brand new motor would have to push the old windows just as hard, and pull as much current though the wiring.

If you solved your rear window problem with lubricant before, that sure suggests it will work again. (and that a new motor will do no better w/o lubricant). There are a lot of moving parts, and lubricating 19-yr old rubber is an iffy proposition. So you might get it to work longer by disassembling and lubricating more carefully.

But if you're not convinced, go ahead and put in a new one and try it. You'll only be out a day of work and $225.00. http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/t...710-35050.html

 

Hmm, if there is a "max" amount of current draw, that wouldn't be dictated by the battery but by the electrical wiring of the car itself you're saying? But if it's dictated by the battery, and each battery is different, the output would be different from each battery meaning that current could be better allocated (with more current to dish out).

...Yeah now that you mention the price I'll see if I can disassemble it and lubricate it better lol. Know of any quick guides to open up the door panel? Or is it just screw open and pull it off?

 

any car will move slower once you use both. mu 99 surburban does it. do the BIG 3 upgrade and youll be ok.

 

There is a power wire from the battery to the fuse box next to it. That wire is to small to handle the power draw. Upgrade that wire to one thats atleast two or three time heavier and do the big three mod and that should fix the problem your having.

 

Alright I guess that all makes sense. Thanks for the help guys, but I guess I'll pass on the Big 3 mod. If it was just upgrading the battery I would've gone for it, but now that it's a current problem I'll just leave it be.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elJ9e...&feature=g-upl

Also, anything?! I recorded another video because this noise is soooo annoying. I hear it at idle, when I'm accelerating, etc. From inside the car, it sounds like an electric car's motor when I'm accelerating, not a V6. At idle, it sounds like some sort of metal sound but I can't for the life of me figure out what it is. I also notice that I get more noise, at idle, when my foot is pressing on the brake...should I be checking my power steering or brake fluids to see if those are the culprits?