Warn Manual Hubs or OEM
#1
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Manual Hub conversion from ADD
I just looked at the tech write up for converting from ADD to Manual Hubs. Is the conversion as easy as the write up makes it look?
Also, are Manual hubs stronger or better in any way than ADD.
Is there Any reason I shouldn't convert my ADD to manual?
If I find enough reason to convert it, what brand should I use? What else will I need besides the Hub itself, just a gasket behind the hub?
Also, are Manual hubs stronger or better in any way than ADD.
Is there Any reason I shouldn't convert my ADD to manual?
If I find enough reason to convert it, what brand should I use? What else will I need besides the Hub itself, just a gasket behind the hub?
#2
No, its even easier! Just bolt on the hubs and its done. The best hubs are Toyota, but spendy. Warn is probably the second best choice, worst I've ever seen was the "superwinch", junk! Here is the things to consider when looking at hubs. first off, the splined area that grabs the axle. More splined area, stronger. Next id the hubs bushing surface. Wide is ideal. The wider, the better. And last, compactness. OE hubs give you lots of spline, lots of bushing surfacer and still doesnt hand out far. Wanr has them all too, but sticks way out. Superwinch has the smalled bushing surface. If you have the ADD sytem, you are in like flint. Now you can either disable the vacuum servo on the front diff and run it like a regular free wheelr, ie hubs free, see snow, lock them in and then shift on the fly when they are locked. Or with the ADd converted system, lcok hubs, still run free in 2WD, and shift on the fly as needed. And in the summer, set them on free for best mileage. And it keeps the frotn boots from wearing to boot!
#3
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Yes, the install is as easy as it looks. Easier maybe. The most time consuming part is removing the wheel!
ADD is by far the strongest/simplest option, however, manual hubs give you A LOT more options. If you were to break a CV, or bind up a wheel, etc, you can unlock the hub and minimize the chance of damage.
The only reason to NOT change is if you need to shift to 4WD on the fly A LOT. In the winter, I leave my hubs locked, just in case.
You will get a lot of opinions about the different brands. Here's my $0.02:
Warn: lifetime warranty, available new. They are not as strong as the Aisins - I have broke two. All that said, if there's a part of the truck I WANT to break (to save other parts) it's the hub(s) as they are SO easy to change out.
AISIN: never heard of one breaking, but no warranty and not readily available new. Can probably find them cheaper than you'll pay for the Warns. Since the hub will not break, the next weak link is the CV or ring/pinion (depending on the situation)
ADD is by far the strongest/simplest option, however, manual hubs give you A LOT more options. If you were to break a CV, or bind up a wheel, etc, you can unlock the hub and minimize the chance of damage.
The only reason to NOT change is if you need to shift to 4WD on the fly A LOT. In the winter, I leave my hubs locked, just in case.
You will get a lot of opinions about the different brands. Here's my $0.02:
Warn: lifetime warranty, available new. They are not as strong as the Aisins - I have broke two. All that said, if there's a part of the truck I WANT to break (to save other parts) it's the hub(s) as they are SO easy to change out.
AISIN: never heard of one breaking, but no warranty and not readily available new. Can probably find them cheaper than you'll pay for the Warns. Since the hub will not break, the next weak link is the CV or ring/pinion (depending on the situation)
#4
WARNS need a lifetime warranty cause they break so much. Unless you are going to wheel hardcore you won't ever break an Aisin...and then you can do things to upgrade them.
Last edited by rworegon; 08-02-2014 at 02:53 PM.
#7
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I just did the ADD to manual hub swap while swapping rotors today. The most time consuming part was prepping everything (degrease, regrease, new seals). I spent around 60 bucks on the entire thing. 2 New dial rings, the front axle gaskets, and the star gaskets cost me 20 bucks. Then, the hubs cost me 16.95 bucks per from a pick-n-pull. It took me just under 3 hours (first time) to do rotors and hubs.
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#8
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I just looked on Wabbits site. Is it normal to find those Aisin hubs refurbished for 200 bucks for 2?
Also, Is it possible for me to swap my ADD with a newer (not too much newer) Toyota pickup's Manual hubs?
i have a 90 4runner, not sure on the pickup year
Also, Is it possible for me to swap my ADD with a newer (not too much newer) Toyota pickup's Manual hubs?
i have a 90 4runner, not sure on the pickup year
#10
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Like I said, I found a set (2) Aisin Manual Hubs (same thing that Wabbit has on his site) for 40 bucks at a junk yard. All IFS hubs on toyotas are interchangeable with other vehicles. I figure that if I just did the hub swap, I coulda done it in 30 minutes (on first try). Once you break them down and put em back together, it's truly a no-brainer.
#11
To clarify on the manual hubs you want/need...any 86-95 Toyota 4x4 Aisin IFS manual hub will work on your vehicle as they are all the same.
Here is all you need to know:
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/aisin/
Last edited by waskillywabbit; 11-23-2006 at 04:47 PM.
#14
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I did the swap on my 95. I used warn, maybe its just me but I like them better. I prefer the 7/8 turn for enagugment.. I am sure its superficial but oh well
In winter I would just lock my hubs when it was snowing and away I went, made the ADD work normal.. and that was nice..
I got about a 1mpg gain on the fwy, around town there wasnt a difference for me...
In winter I would just lock my hubs when it was snowing and away I went, made the ADD work normal.. and that was nice..
I got about a 1mpg gain on the fwy, around town there wasnt a difference for me...
#15
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I also prefer the large turn on my Warns. It's for peace of mind when creeping down really long, steep hills. I find them pretty easy to maintain also, although I have no basis for comparison since I've never taken my Aisins apart
#19
Good luck.
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