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w-56 transmission swap gone bad.

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Old 05-03-2011, 05:51 PM
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It goes away in 4th gear, on both units I have. 5th just sounds bad. And i'm still a little upset about the whole thing.

Last edited by dropzone; 05-03-2011 at 08:28 PM. Reason: Bypassing the censor
Old 05-03-2011, 06:32 PM
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This sounds like the same thing that happened to my dad's truck, (now mine). Started very softly whining in all gears but 4th, and over several months just got worse; to the point you could feel the rumbling in the stick. It was horrible. Had a rebuild done on it, and about two years later, started again...it finally got worse than before. So bad, in fact, that it transmitted enough noise/vibration down the driveline...that one day, headed home, with a loud bang, and lots of awkward clunking, the rear end gave out...stuck me in the middle of traffic. Upon teardown and replacement, it was discovered that the junkyard sourced motor had a sloppy rear main. Wore on the input shaft enough to gradually kill the trans. So...check your rear main for anything outta whack. My disclaimer is that I was 16 at the time, and didn't know any better...right. But now I make it up to her, one OEM part at a time!
Old 05-03-2011, 07:01 PM
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Uh oh,
Originally Posted by combatcarl
This sounds like the same thing that happened to my dad's truck, (now mine). Started very softly whining in all gears but 4th, and over several months just got worse; to the point you could feel the rumbling in the stick. It was horrible. Had a rebuild done on it, and about two years later, started again...it finally got worse than before. So bad, in fact, that it transmitted enough noise/vibration down the driveline...that one day, headed home, with a loud bang, and lots of awkward clunking, the rear end gave out...stuck me in the middle of traffic. Upon teardown and replacement, it was discovered that the junkyard sourced motor had a sloppy rear main. Wore on the input shaft enough to gradually kill the trans. So...check your rear main for anything outta whack. My disclaimer is that I was 16 at the time, and didn't know any better...right. But now I make it up to her, one OEM part at a time!
Uh oh, your making me worry. I guess its worth getting my rear end checked out!
Old 05-03-2011, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Diablo22RE
(partial thread hijack)

Would those also cause your gears to slip out?

Also sometimes when accelerating (in all gears) the transmission stays in gear but the engine revs up and it seems like only partial power is actually making it to the wheels. I assume this is a clutch problem?
Sounds like you might have a worn shifter seat (buy Marlin's) and a clutch slipping. If it isn't the shifter seat, it's an internal problem.

Originally Posted by combatcarl
Upon teardown and replacement, it was discovered that the junkyard sourced motor had a sloppy rear main. Wore on the input shaft enough to gradually kill the trans.
That diagnosis doesn't sound quite right, do you mean the pilot bearing was shot and wore down the tip of the input shaft? I don't see how a worn main would cause anything to the trans without the engine puking first. Maybe both just went bad at the same time?
Old 05-03-2011, 07:44 PM
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-Quoted "That diagnosis doesn't sound quite right, do you mean the pilot bearing was shot and wore down the tip of the input shaft? I don't see how a worn main would cause anything to the trans without the engine puking first. Maybe both just went bad at the same time?" -Corax
That was probably it, actually. I'm a little hazy on the exactness of my statement there, it does make more sense your way! That motor sounded pretty awful...until it finally had timing chain for lunch. But she no have that problem no more!
Old 05-03-2011, 07:46 PM
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Thanks everyone for your input. I have a new motor and new clutch. Rear main is also new and in perfect condition. I just think that 5th gear is the weak link in these trannies. I'm just going to have to start all over again, however install something worth installing.

I would buy from Marlin, but isn't $1200 plus shipping and core charges a bit steep?

Well, I guess you get what you pay for. I lost taking a gamble on a used transmission. It wont happen again, if I had to do it over I would definitely rebuild the original. Less time, money and effort.
Old 05-05-2011, 12:36 PM
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Remember that 5th gear is the smallest gear in the transmission and is also the most used gear in terms of mileage. These factors are not helping the gear run quiet. You will most likely always get a whine in 5th. Try running 5th gear at 30 MPH and 1,200 RPM and you'll really hear it.

Fourth gear is the most quiet (and also runs the coolest) because it is a direct 1:1 shot that just passes straight through the transmission.

Some whine in 5th is more or less normal, but excessive whine isn't. Honestly I would say to keep running it and I'm sure you'll get many more miles out of it. You could install a magnetic fill plug and check it out every other month or so to see how much metal it is collecting. At first you will be surprised at how much metal its collecting, but then after a couple inspections you'll realize this is normal. It's when you start seeing a lot more metal compared to prior inspections is when I'd be concerned.

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Old 05-05-2011, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 87wheels
I would buy from Marlin, but isn't $1200 plus shipping and core charges a bit steep?
I don't set the prices, but actually in my opinion I'd say this price is too cheap for the amount of work that we put into our transmissions.

One great thing that people forget about is that the customer is always more than welcomed to send in his transmission to be rebuilt, and if we are able to rebuilt it, then there is no core charge at all and you get your same original transmission Marlinized and sent right back at ya!

Regards,
BigMike
Old 05-05-2011, 01:11 PM
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OK, thanks BigMike. Marlin transmissions are a coveted item, they seem to have a very good reputation. If you would, tell me the difference between a Marlinized transmission rebuild and the local shop that uses a OEM or better master overhaul kit, I might be able to understand the difference and I just may send one of my units to you all for a rebuild.

Honestly, I don't care about the money either. I can afford what I want, However when one person charges $600 and another charges $1200, I would like to know the difference. Thanks again Mike for your response.
Old 06-10-2011, 03:18 AM
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I never heard back from marlin, so I had a local moonlighter rebuild my w-56. I bought a full rebuild kit with bearings and syncros. When the guy tore it down he was surprised how good everything looked until he got to the main bearings. They were black and had a noticeable tick when you spun them.
Anyway, its all rebuilt now

Next question: I bought some Valvoline full synthetic 75-90 gear oil. I have not put it in yet. Was this a good choice????
or should I take it back and get something else??

Your responses are appreciated!
Old 06-10-2011, 04:04 AM
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After alot of reading on here, I went with the Redline MT-90 in the trans and transfer case.
Old 06-10-2011, 05:01 AM
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Redline MT-90 is a good choice but it also seemed a bit thinner than I expected. 75-90 Synthetic is probably just as good and won't make any real world difference - if your shifting feels notchy, put one quart of Redline MT90 in before filling with the 75-90
Old 06-10-2011, 08:02 AM
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I swapped my auto out on my 4runner and put a w-56 in that had well over 200k on it. The input shaft had a crap ton of play in it when I put it in, but I was just planning on running it for the winter. I slapped it in and for the first 20 or so miles, it sounded horrible! I changed out the oil and put redline mt-90 in it and the noises all went away. Where exactly do you live in utah? I live up in cache valley, so if you're close i'll have to get that guys name and number from you
Old 06-10-2011, 08:19 AM
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If you have new synchros, then stick with mineral gear oil for a good 5,000-10,000 miles to make sure they break in properly.

Regards,
BigMike
Old 06-10-2011, 05:20 PM
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Thanks again for all the replies, I think ill go with big mikes suggestion above.
Old 06-14-2011, 11:30 PM
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Update...... my mechanic used the wrong bearing and he called me before I installed it. He is replacing the bearing. I will let you know how it goes?!? I should have it in in the next few days!
Old 06-14-2011, 11:41 PM
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I am planning on using GL 4 Sta Lube($12 Gal) for a while , like Big Mike suggested, to break in the new stuff; then go to some synthetic like redline mt 90. Any useful suggestions are appreciated?!?!!!!!
Your comments of any type appreciated!
Old 06-15-2011, 05:15 AM
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If you plan on towing or heavy use I personally wouldn't use MT90 to replace all of the fluid in the trans. If you want, add a quart of MT90 and use 75-90 synthetic for the rest of the fill, or just use 75-90 synthetic which it was designed for.

I pulled a 4,000 trailer from coast to coast twice with no issues. This last time, I filled the trans with MT90 right before we left and had bearing noise by the end of it all. It may just be coincidence and the trans may have already been on the way out, but I didn't feel good about it when I started pouring the MT90 and it flowed like engine oil and not gear oil. Either way, not knocking Redline, just saying for heavy duty use you may want to stick with factory recommendations
Old 06-15-2011, 05:28 AM
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Going along with Vance164, I have a 85 4runner with 185,000 and the 5th gear has kind of a harmonic wwoh wwoh wwoh wwoh as well. Only 5th tho, Going to stay tuned to see what it is.
Old 06-15-2011, 07:02 PM
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thanks


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